help starting Husky 350?

[rbpasc]

hey all
this saw doesn't see much use, but every 6 months or so I need to do tree work
once it gets up and running it's a great tool
but that first pull never does it
today I replaced spark plug, cleaned air filter, scraped exhaust screen, filled up w/ fresh fuel and oil
many pulls later still no start
(almost caught once)

sorry to ask elementary question, but what is correct starting procedure for cold saw?
how many pulls w/ choke pulled out?
if it doesn't start on first few, slide it in?
how to you prevent flooding the cylinder/drowning the spark?

thanks for anything you can tell me
Rolf in MA

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Set the high idle and chain brake, choke it, and pull until it pops. Then turn off the choke and pull again until it starts. Once started, blurp the throttle to turn off the high idle.
If you don't get a pop after 10 pulls or so with the choke on, pull the spark plug and look to see if it's wet or dry. If it's wet, it's flooded, if it's dry, it's not getting enough fuel.
While the plug is out, connect the plug wire, lay the metal part of the plug against any metal surface, pull the saw over and look at the spark. This will tell you if you have spark or not, to help you in trouble shooting.
Check to make sure the exaust screen is clean.
If the plug was wet, and you have a good spark, pull it over a few times with the choke off and plug out, to clear some of the fuel. Then replace the plug and get a helper to hold the throttle on full (choke off), while you pull like mad.
If the plug is dry, and you have spark, check fuel filter, fuel line, and impulse line. Another common trouble spot is inside the carburetor. There is often a tiny little, round, brass screen, that gets clogged. While the carb is apart, inspect the diaphragms for cracks or other problems.
If you are in one of the areas where they have ethanol or other types of reformulated gas, they tend to go bad very fast compared to the old gas. You may have changed the gas in the tank, but still had old coagulated gas in the carb. The saws with the primer bulb are nice for pumping the old gas out of the carb and the new gas back in. If you have a primer, pump it 15 or 20 times, then try the starting sequence. If you don't have a primer bulb, taking the carb off and cleaning it may be your only option.

 

[rbpasc]

thanks very much Mike
I got her started right up today - 2 pulls to pop, shut the choke, 1 pull to run, just like you said
cut a couple limbs, and then lost power and died
(last limb I cut had the saw sideways, if that matters)
now I can get her started (it's harder) but if I touch the throttle she'll die
is this symptomatic of something common? is there anything I can check?
the only thing I haven't touched is the carb
something in the throttle action must be cutting off fuel or air
there are 3 adjustment screws for the carb - L, H, and T
I have not been able to find any Husky info for how to adjust these
anyone know a fool-proof basic setting that the saw should run at?
then I can fine-tune once I have reliable running
thanks again

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

cut a couple limbs, and then lost power and died
(last limb I cut had the saw sideways, if that matters)
now I can get her started (it's harder) but if I touch the throttle she'll die
is this symptomatic of something common? is there anything I can check?

The low speed jet, set too lean.
It could also be a fuel blockage. Try running the saw with the choke set part way out for a short time, to see if things clear up. Otherwise, turn out the low speed. If it takes more than a 1/4 turn, something else is wrong.

L=Low speed jet
H=high speed jet
T=throttle plate minimum setting
The low and high speed setting are very intracate, move them 1/16 turn at a time.
The throttle plate adjustment takes a half turn or so to make a noticable difference.
If the high speed jet is set too lean, you can damage the saw.
Clockwise is lean, counter-clockwise is rich.

Madsens has an excellent carb tuning section. http://www.madsens1.com/

 

[colverpa]

pull out choke, prime ,pull 2-3 times, push in choke pull till it starts

 

[M.D. Vaden]

I'm amazed and not amazed that you cleaned the screen in the exhaust.

That one even tricked a saw shop one time when my say was in for service.

It's one of those sneaky little things.

You're on top of it.

By the way, sometimes the switch can malfunction.

Chain brake off?

 

[StilLrnin]

hey all
this saw doesn't see much use, but every 6 months or so I need to do tree work
once it gets up and running it's a great tool

sorry to ask elementary question, but what is correct starting procedure for cold saw?
how many pulls w/ choke pulled out?
if it doesn't start on first few, slide it in?
how to you prevent flooding the cylinder/drowning the spark?

thanks for anything you can tell me
Rolf in MA

Sooo.... any new info on your 350? Was it a carb setting?

Mine seems to get temperamental too... but really I think its the operator in my case!
After pulling and pulling, choke or no choke, (mostly happens when warm but sitting for a while...dead cold she starts ok) ... I then remember to try the starting procedure for my cheapee Mac... couple pulls with choke and then try HALF choke...
voom...starts right up! And I'm happy with my new Husky again!
(just remember to push choke all the way back in once started...or she starts idling funny in a few minutes!)

I think these lean smog saws need a little enrichment to start but not full choke when warm.... but maybe it's just MY saw.... or ME!

(My 30+ year old Husky never failed to start hot or cold...couple pulls with the choke until it sputtered, then push it in and she would fire up! But not this new 350!)