Help with 35t Huskee

[subhunter]

I bought a 35t splitter last summer,second hand(2007 model). It has paid for itself more than once. Today it wont start for nothing. It seems way too easy to pull and I am thinking it may just be blown up. I checked for spark,good, it has oil, plug is wet with gas, clean air filter. Even tried a small then healthy does of either. It still wont pop or stutter to seem like it wants to start. It is mid 30's outside and it has never had any problems like this before but two weeks ago I was splitting and it did sound a bit rough when it was running.
My questions are:
1) where do I get a repair manual/ ipl? I have not taken one apart before but am able to work on it.
2)How easy is it to swap over to one of the HF small engines? I am needing this machine to be back running soon.
3) Any thing that I may have left out to check on this unit??

THANKS FOR ANY HELP OR ADVICE!!

 

[NEW BURNER]

can you cycle the motor and look in the spark plug hole at the same time? if so take a flash light and check and make sure the rod isn't snapped. all else fails, buy a 5.5 briggs and be done with it

 

[subhunter]

I will check through the plug in a bit. So if I need a new engine what is the best way to go and as cheap as possible. I need to find a good vertical shaft.

 

[subhunter]

When i looked through the plug hole what I seen was (im guessing) the piston moving side to side and it looked rusty as hell. Im not sure why it would look rusty though.

 

[TonyK]

On my splitter the kill wire got bent over and would not allow it to start. Does it have any compression?

 

[zogger]

little briggs

Pull the engine, get another one. If that is a vertical shaft, heck, this is winter, there are cheap running lawnmowers out there to snag an engine from, or look online for some deals. If you *really* want to rebuild it..uhh, save the busted one for practice later on.

Most likely you got bad valves, not really cost effective to rebuild those engines.

New engine, use the synthetic oil and change it often.

The larger commercial grade engines are somewhat worth rebuilding, but them little ones..nope.

Northern tool carries the chicom knockoffs for cheap, match up what ya go, try one of those. You need to know vertical or horizontal crankshaft, crancshaft PTO side diameter to match what you have, horse power, etc. Just try to match it. I am not familiar with those exact splitters and specs, etc, but from the looks of it it uses a 6.5 horse Bs engine. Just ain't that expensive..

And even if you use your power splitter all the time..now you know why having a fiskars super splitter biodrive model is good for at least a backup!

Dang infernal combustible doohickeys will NEVER bust on you at a "good time". And they always seem to go when you are short on folding green as well.

 

[subhunter]

I am not sure if it has compression. Can you use a tester with the valve like for saws? I know it no longer will snatch the cord outta my hand after 4-5 pulls like a week ago and having the plug in it vs no lug it seems the same as far as pulling difficulty.

The piston in this motor moves horizontal but the pumps shaft is vertical. This is the 12.5hp Briggs( says industrial/commercial) and it is the one with all the plastic on it. Can I safely put a smaller engine on here with no adverse effects?
Thanks again for the suggestions.

 

[John R]

The 35 ton Huskee has a 16 GPM pump on it, a 6.5 HP engine is not going to run it.
That I/C engine on your splitter is a good engine, it's worth fixing.
The only vertical shaft that HF sells is too small for what you want.

 

[flewism]

You've got to get the compression checked. Pull the model number, the compressionrange is available online. Go borrow the tester from Autozone if required. Start with this,

 

[subhunter]

You've got to get the compression checked. Pull the model number, the compressionrange is available online. Go borrow the tester from Autozone if required. Start with this,

Can you test the compression with a tester like we use on saws? the one with the valve in the tip? I have one of those

 

[CT stihl]

Sounds like a stuck valve from what you explained.Usually a pretty easy fix on those briggs.Had one years ago that the valve seat actually came loose and had to reset it back into the block and it was fine for alot more years after that.Your exhaust valve might have alittle too much carbon on it to let it close.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Sounds like a stuck valve from what you explained.Usually a pretty easy fix on those briggs.Had one years ago that the valve seat actually came loose and had to reset it back into the block and it was fine for alot more years after that.Your exhaust valve might have alittle too much carbon on it to let it close.

I agree

If it's an OHV engine its very easy to check. Pull the valve cover usually 3 screws and you'll see the push rod and valve stems, Pull the rope slowly and see if the valve(s) go in and out. If one is stuck usually just a little push is necessary to free it. Also make sure the whole system is clean.

I've got a 6.5 hp Subaru Robins on my pressure washer that sticks valves every so often and it's a 5 minute fix to get it up and running. If you have a good relationship with a OPE dealer, or repair shop, stop by before you buy a new engine and ask them to give you a quick walk through.

Take Care

 

[subhunter]

Did a compression check

I put the compression tester I bought at advance auto on the splitter and it would never get above 30psi. I pulled over 10 times and after2 pulls it was at 30psi. :curse:I am guessing it is shot.

 

[John R]

When it was used the last time did it quit running or did you shut it off?
If you shut it off I would think the valve would be the thing to go after.
Try all the little stuff before writhing the engine off.

If your making compression at all, the piston is moving.

If the engine threw a rod, it would have made a lot of noise, even if that happened it's still repairable, unless the rod punched a hole in the block.

Keep us posted on what ever you find.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

I put the compression tester I bought at advance auto on the splitter and it would never get above 30psi. I pulled over 10 times and after2 pulls it was at 30psi. :curse:I am guessing it is shot.

Probably valve

If a valve is stuck open, the engine can't build any pressure and / or compression.

Take Care

 

[subhunter]

I dont think its the valve. I pulled the cover and the valves both open and close fully. The oil that came out seemed to have some water in it. I am not sure how that would've happened as it is stored under my carport and out of the weather. I at a loss of "what next". Thinking I may just order the $300 replacement briggs. I am curious though on one thing on the NEW engine. The one I have now has the fuel pump on it. The one I am wanting to get has no fuel pump. everything else should still work the same with the non-pump motor, correct?

Thanks again guys for the helpful advice.

 

[John R]

Does the new engine have a gas tank?
If it does you'll be fine without a fuel pump, if not look for an engine that is complete.
I still think the engine you have can be fixed, if it's not the valves that are causing the problem I'd look at the head gasket.
Some of these engines are known for blowing head gaskets.
Wish you were closer to me, I'd get it running for ya.
Do you have a Briggs dealer by you?
If so I'd let them have a look, should be cheaper to get it fixed rather than replacing it.

 

[subhunter]

The engine that has no pump has no tank. It looks like the tank I have would bolt on and be able to use the old tank.

Now about the dealers. The ones I have called want almost a 100 bucks just to "diagnose" the problem then parts and labors if I had them to fix it. IMHO I would rather spend a bit more and have a brand new engine than fix the old one, especially if I had to pay the rediculus shop rates.

 

[Bucko]

Man, pull the cover and work those valves, lube em and get your stuff splitting.

 

[danrclem]

Man, pull the cover and work those valves, lube em and get your stuff splitting.

I agree. If you still can't get it making compression pull the head and clean the valves from the bottom side. The valves might be moving up and down but you can't see if they're closing all the way unless you pull the head because it's an overhead valve engine. What have you got to lose?