Help with 35t Huskee
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John R
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If there is an adjustment look for it on the side of the carb right above the float bowl, or it might be on the bottom center of the float bowl.
Either way, run the engine at full throttle and turn it in until it runs good and smooth, then back it out a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Either way, run the engine at full throttle and turn it in until it runs good and smooth, then back it out a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Well the plitter is really hard to start again. It seems like after a pull or two it wants to start but just sputters and stops. I am not the sharpest tool in the shed but when I was putting it back together I noticed that one of the rocker arms? was nice and tight and the other had some play in it. Last night I was sweeping the shop and found this below the spliiter.
was this some type of spacer or something that got left out on the rod to take up some slack?
was this some type of spacer or something that got left out on the rod to take up some slack?
John R
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Looks to be a cap from a pushrod, time to figure out witch one is missing.
I was thinking the same thing. If I add that cap to my shorter rod I think they would be the same length. I just didnt want to tear it back apart if it was a piece to something else.Now to figure out where it goes? under the rocker arm or at the other end?
Thanks John R
Thanks John R
Now I have taken the cover back off and noticed that the cap went on the top of the valve spring. I put it on and still no start once again. I am sure i have the rods in the correct holes,at least I think I am. Steel in ex and aluminum in intake. Now the splitter backfires after you pull a few times and once shot a huge blue flame out of the muffler. Today I also got a new head gasket and put on it but nothing.
Back to the drawing board....
Back to the drawing board....
John R
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Have you checked the valve lash? Sounds like maybe you have a tight valve.
Should be able to get the specs from the dealer where you bought the head gasket.
Should be able to get the specs from the dealer where you bought the head gasket.
K.C.
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Flames out the exhaust most likely indicate the exhaust valve is staying open too long - hopefully just an adjustment issue as John mentioned. Did you recheck the valve lash (gap between valve stem & rocker) after replacing that cap or the head gasket?
Good suggestion by John to get the specs from the dealer that sold you the head gasket!
A minor setback - you will prevail!
Good suggestion by John to get the specs from the dealer that sold you the head gasket!
A minor setback - you will prevail!
To be be completely honest I had no clue as to what the valve lash was.
I tightened the arms down but no gorilla torque. The exhaust valve would not tighten down as tight as the intake no matter what though. The cap that had been left out was from the exhausts stem and I put it back. I will check the vlalve lash later. Specs say .005 - .007. Now I know that the gap between the exhaust rocker and the top of the stem is probaly a 1/8" at least.
I tightened the arms down but no gorilla torque. The exhaust valve would not tighten down as tight as the intake no matter what though. The cap that had been left out was from the exhausts stem and I put it back. I will check the vlalve lash later. Specs say .005 - .007. Now I know that the gap between the exhaust rocker and the top of the stem is probaly a 1/8" at least.
John R
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Maybe that longer push rod you were talking about goes on the ext side, that would explain the wide gap you have there.
That was my thoughts. But I took it back apart yesterday and after I swapped the two rods the blue flame started to come out of the intake instead of the exhaust and still was trying to backfire out of the intake also.
So that made me think it was right to start with
Also the exhaust side still had the same play with either rod and with or with out the missing cap.
So that made me think it was right to start with
Also the exhaust side still had the same play with either rod and with or with out the missing cap.
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I guess it was the valve lash. I set them at .008 and it pulled over after 3 pulls. I plan to split some today just to see how it runs but it does indeed sound better today than when I first got it running the other day.:shout: Thanks again!!!!
John R
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Put some Sea Foam in the gas, it'll clean the valves and the combustion chamber out.
K.C.
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In case you aren't aware of Sea Foam, it's a liquid "de-carbonizer" if you will that you put in the gas tank. It's usually under $5/can and available at most auto parts stores such as AutoZone, Kragen or Pep Boys:
First ("shock") treatment is usually heavy and it will generate alot of smoke so you don't wan't to fill your gas tank. Maybe just a quart of gas with appropriate Sea Foam. Then you use a maintenance dose on a regular basis to keep things clean. You should still try tuning the high-speed needle on the carb. Get the engine up to normal operating temp, full throttle and turn the screw in until the engine stumbles, then start backing it out (unscrewing). Count the number of turns before it starts to stumble again. Now turn it back in 1/2 that number and you should be good. (i.e. 3 turns out would be 1-1/2 turns back in)
First ("shock") treatment is usually heavy and it will generate alot of smoke so you don't wan't to fill your gas tank. Maybe just a quart of gas with appropriate Sea Foam. Then you use a maintenance dose on a regular basis to keep things clean. You should still try tuning the high-speed needle on the carb. Get the engine up to normal operating temp, full throttle and turn the screw in until the engine stumbles, then start backing it out (unscrewing). Count the number of turns before it starts to stumble again. Now turn it back in 1/2 that number and you should be good. (i.e. 3 turns out would be 1-1/2 turns back in)
John R
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Well thanks again for the helpful advice. You are right, persistence has paid off because I was ready to write it off and get a new engine. I didn't get to split yesterday as I went and cut some wood. My saw running addiction got me. I did split about 2/3 cord of wood this afternoon and it didn't act up a bit. Another thing, it seems to get better gas mileage now as it didn't use a full tank to split all that wood but normally it would have plus some.
Thanks again to all who put there .02 in and helped me get this thing going again!
Thanks again to all who put there .02 in and helped me get this thing going again!
This thing is beating me up again
I ran the splitter saturday and it ran perfect through two tanks of gas.. After refueling and attempting to start it only stuttered. I knew by the sound of the motor that it was the valves again. I checked them yesterday and sure enough they had loosened themselves up. It ran flawlessly for around two hours.
I am not sure as to how tight I am supposed to be making these nuts. I am sticking in a feeler gauge to set the lash and then tightening down 1/4 turn past the point of the feeler gauge being tight but the nut keeps getting looser after running. What torque setting would someone recommend to set the valve nuts to? OR am I going to have to buy new valves and springs to correct the problem?
I ran the splitter saturday and it ran perfect through two tanks of gas.. After refueling and attempting to start it only stuttered. I knew by the sound of the motor that it was the valves again. I checked them yesterday and sure enough they had loosened themselves up. It ran flawlessly for around two hours.
I am not sure as to how tight I am supposed to be making these nuts. I am sticking in a feeler gauge to set the lash and then tightening down 1/4 turn past the point of the feeler gauge being tight but the nut keeps getting looser after running. What torque setting would someone recommend to set the valve nuts to? OR am I going to have to buy new valves and springs to correct the problem?
Frank Boyer
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The valve clearance spec is after the jam nut is tightned. Once properly set, the valves should stay in adjustment for 100's of hours.
komatsuvarna
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How bout a lock nut, jam nut, or double nut it. The valve lash is pretty important. If there too tight the valve will not close all the way, if there just a little tight it could be way to tight when the engine warms up.
Too loose and they rattle, and/or rattle and wont open and close the valve.
Most MFG's lash numbers are set when the engine is cold, so make sure you do that too or you could end up being a little off on the lash.
Too loose and they rattle, and/or rattle and wont open and close the valve.
Most MFG's lash numbers are set when the engine is cold, so make sure you do that too or you could end up being a little off on the lash.
I know the lash has to be set cold. Heres how I am doing it . Stick feeler gauge in between the top of valve and the rocker arm. Tighten it up until it is just tight on the gauge, pull gauge out and tighten 1/4 turn past, as per the briggs and stratton dealer.
I can always tell though if I got it too tight or not enough. Not enough makes the engine try to start but sputter but too tight makes it way too hard to pull over and it wont run at all.
Now correct me if how I am setting the lash wrong, or if someone can tell me another method to preform.
I can always tell though if I got it too tight or not enough. Not enough makes the engine try to start but sputter but too tight makes it way too hard to pull over and it wont run at all.
Now correct me if how I am setting the lash wrong, or if someone can tell me another method to preform.
