Help with adjustments for a Puolan s-25

[xraydaniel]

I have an old Poulan that I have replaced everything but the piston and crank case. This is from about the very early 1980's. After getting it started I began to make adjustments and am very bad at that. It has an idle screw, a red, and blue that I've tried to bring 1 and 1/4 counterclockwise turns from tight. It'll start and run but the idle is messed up as the blade turns really fast when not on the trigger. If I bring the idle screw almost to zero pressure it'll stall but still will run the blade fast right before it stalls. Any thoughts? I know Poulans today are quite trashy but this one is pretty solid, not pro, but solid. I'm hoping it has no vacuum leak. Another strange nuance is the gas cap which has a pinhole in the middle seemingly there to introduce air? When I pull the cord I get a drip of gas out of that hole which to me is very wrong.

 

[2many2count]

poulan s25

question have you adjusted the low speed screw? what i have done in the past is leave your high speed setting where it is at. slowly turn low idle speed screw out until your saw almost dies. back the low speed screw out or in until your saw runs smooth.once you got saw down to idle speed, adjust low speed needle turn out until you notice it is running rich and then in until it wants to die set screw1/2 way in between. does your cap have a duckbill on the inside if it doesn't the cap need to be replaced.

 

[xraydaniel]

Here are some pictures

I'm assuming the high speed is the top one and low speed the bottom. I'll try the idle set screw like you said then work on the low speed and see what becomes of it. My arm is tired :bang:

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yep the low speed is the bottom screw. They shouldnt be that far out of wack at the 1 1/4 out setting. Sounds like you may indeed have a vacuum leak. But it is hard to tell without knowing all that was done to it.

You said you had the saw apart, did you put crank seals in it? I mean that saw is over 30 years old and rubber goes bad.

Get that duct tape off the fuel cap, its suppose to breath. If yours is spitting gas out of that hole, then the duckbill check valve in the cap is shot.

Quite a few parts are still able to be had from Poulan for that saw. Yours is a S25CVA from the picture of it.

Great saw! I just redid one for myself a couple weeks ago.

 

[xraydaniel]

Nice saw



I replaced all the seals, all filters, not the gas cap of course considering the spitting issue. I know that when my father used it about 30 years ago it had some problems. I don't know the extent of it. I spent about 50 bucks on everything thus far. I love the feel of the saw and don't mind dropping some more money into it but unless I do a compression test I can't tell if there is a leak or not. I spend a good amount of time keeping it clean and sealing up the gaskets carefully enough. This was my first attempt at a small engine restroration job. I wish mine was as clean as yours.

 

[xraydaniel]

Fuel cap assembly

Got a good source? I can get one for 2.16 but 12.00 shipping, boooo!

 

[Modifiedmark]

Assuming you rebuilt the carb are you certain you got the high and low needles installed in the correct holes? The needles are different.

Get it running then adjust the idle speed as low as it will go and still run then adjust the low speed needle and reset the idle speed as needed.

I have my local dealer order the parts and then theres no shipping charges.

Dont feel bad about the scratched up paint, I just aquired a 306a that looks like its been through a war and lost.

But I got it running like a champ!

It too needs a fuel cap but it is no longer available for the 306, but I got a hunch I can replace the duck bill valve in it.

 

[ClimbinArbor]

man i had an old poulan similar to that growing up my old man used to make me start that thing when it was longer than me it seemed lol, and man did my arm hurt.....

 

[Modifiedmark]

Either it was in bad tune or you didnt know how to start it properly.

I had one that I used the heck out of for 25 years and it always started well.

This one I just finished will start within 3 pulls cold.

 

[xraydaniel]

No carb rebuild

Never touched the carb actually so the screws were never removed.. I only broke down the saw to the case and replaced all gaskets, filter elements, fuel line, fly wheel assembly; I believe that's all. The carb is pretty clean inside; looks brand new actually, and there are no chips or trash in there. Considering what I read in the post in the saw forum I should really looks closely at the manual and auto oil pump. Is it true that when the saw is not fired up the manual pump won't depress? I can't get it to depress but then again I was focused more on the carb settings.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I always redo the carb with a kit, its a very cheap insurance against troubles on a old saw. Less then $10 from about any dealer.

Yes the manual oiler will pump with the saw not running. Did you get the rod out of the pump somehow? You may have to remove the flywheel to see.

 

[safeT1st]

Manual oiler Rod

As Modifiedmark said the manual oiler rod has to extend down from button into the pump housing , must fit into small hole in red end cap as shown i n picture below .

 

[xraydaniel]

Carb kit

Do you have the part number for the carb major repair kit? Is it a Tillotson hu-10a or a Walbro wt-83? Funny thing is the manual pump just started working. I do remember where it was supposed to go after now looking at your picture, thanks.

After multiple settings on the carb and the idle screw I can be sure that there is something further that needs to be replaced. I will need to fix the oil tank with a new oil vent pin and new line since I remember it as a little chewed around the edges as the pump pumps oil around the top of where the oil cap is. I will also need to check the tank for saw dust and further clean the innards. The flywheel I have is broken but works, is now obsolete, and my only hope is to find another saw for parts. I already am getting a fuel cap replacement with a proper duckbill. I don't know what could be causing the diel problems.

 

[xraydaniel]

Can anyone find a carb kit for this saw? I've only found ones for the s25av or s25da. I would love to buy a new old stock carb for it. This may be the fix.

 

[scottr]

I have an old Poulan that I have replaced everything but the piston and crank case. This is from about the very early 1980's. After getting it started I began to make adjustments and am very bad at that. It has an idle screw, a red, and blue that I've tried to bring 1 and 1/4 counterclockwise turns from tight. It'll start and run but the idle is messed up as the blade turns really fast when not on the trigger. If I bring the idle screw almost to zero pressure it'll stall but still will run the blade fast right before it stalls. Any thoughts? I know Poulans today are quite trashy but this one is pretty solid, not pro, but solid. I'm hoping it has no vacuum leak. Another strange nuance is the gas cap which has a pinhole in the middle seemingly there to introduce air? When I pull the cord I get a drip of gas out of that hole which to me is very wrong.

Daniel, the L and H adjust was never suppose to be turned to tight, only to lightly seated. You need to inspect the needles for damage. Your local small engine shop will have a kit, you just need the model number off the carb.