Help with building a 2100cd race saw.

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There have been some FAST 2100's built, so you've got a good saw to start with. You going with gas or alky? Pipe? 2 piece head?

Well you know I want a 2 piece head, with a pipe tuned to 15k, an 084 carb running nitro. lol

But what I want and what I get will be completely different I'm sure.

I'm just thinking right now a cylinder port but keeping it under 11K, a 10 pin sprocket (if it will turn it), 18 inch bar with race chain, and maybe a different filter.

I'm hoping to end up with something much faster, but not loose too much of it's reliability.
 
Why not leave your saw stock and put a piped muffler on it.

I think and someone needs to correct me if I'm wrong, but in order to get the most power gains out of a pipe it has to be ported for that pipe.

In other words, I believe the porting for a pipe and the porting for a standard muffler is different.

I know there are still gains to be had with just adding the pipe though.
 
Any porting you do is going to raise the RPMs. Even when the exhuast port roof is left alone, the RPMs will come up with a good port job. I personally wouldn't worry about it. Port the saw and run good synthetic oil in it at 40:1 or even 32:1. I doubt you'd have a problem with it.
 
I'm going to have to ask a lot of questions for this build.

First, how much rpm's can the saw handle and stay with in a safe "redline" limit?

What does it stand to gain with a bigger carb? I know in the Yamaha Banshee world bigger carbs mean more top end. So I'm guessing the same holds true with chainsaws.

Thanks in advance guys.
 
Compression is 150 PSI on this saw. In my experience, 066/660s don't have quite the compression that a 460 does. My 460 has 175 PSI.
Wow, you could run 89 octane in that saw and not see any difference!.

A good test for better fuel would be a saw that is 190 psi plus on the compression.
 
I think I own the saw in question, traded Banshee for some other saws. I've milled with it for a couple months and the compression has only gone up. This saw is crazy, you can lean on it all you want and it just keeps pulling.
 
Why don´t you put a pipe on it.... it´s great fun and the saw like´s it... :msp_biggrin:

I did it to my Stihl 028 av... and I can still use it for work if I can take all the noise a hole day :msp_wink:

It´s a screamer at 16000 rpm.

[video=youtube;UzVdhAgXc2Q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzVdhAgXc2Q[/video]
 
Best piston?

Which would be be the better piston to use on one of these ? The standard piston or the thin ring version? Just asking in case I ever decide to do the same as I still have an extra thin ring that I think is in very useable condition .
 
I think the thin ring puts out more power, it has huge windows in the piston, just comparing them now, and I am not an expert on this, but the thin ring pistons have an edge. I think those windows and the thin rings work together nice. Dave
 
Why don´t you put a pipe on it.... it´s great fun and the saw like´s it... :msp_biggrin:

I did it to my Stihl 028 av... and I can still use it for work if I can take all the noise a hole day :msp_wink:

It´s a screamer at 16000 rpm.

[video=youtube;UzVdhAgXc2Q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzVdhAgXc2Q[/video]

Where does one get a pipe for a 2100?
 
I think the thin ring puts out more power, it has huge windows in the piston, just comparing them now, and I am not an expert on this, but the thin ring pistons have an edge. I think those windows and the thin rings work together nice. Dave

How small are these thin rings? How can you tell which you have?
 
thin rings

Am I correct in the thinking that the thin ring pistons are designed for faster revs , but the standard rings had better sealing/compression?
 
Thanks for the help. I'm going to open it up tonight to get a better look.
 

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