Help with FS110 Autocut Head

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.105

I just went through about 20 feet of it today, its okay...
Chews up too fast and splits easily.

Yeah, it kind of sucks. So you guys recommend the Gator Magnum line? Will that fit in the 25-2 head? I'm heading over to the shop later today and need to get some more line. I'm going to look at some other as well.

I need to cut through some thicker stuff, like blackberry.
 
Yeah, it kind of sucks. So you guys recommend the Gator Magnum line? Will that fit in the 25-2 head? I'm heading over to the shop later today and need to get some more line. I'm going to look at some other as well.

I need to cut through some thicker stuff, like blackberry.

I'm going to look at some other attachments and blades, that is.
 
Ya know, I have actually had pretty good luck with some stuff I bought at Home Depot last year, its a Commercial grade line, square profile thats orange and white. I also used to use the Titanium oxide line years ago and it worked pretty good, I think it was made by Husqvarna.

If you need to cut through blackberry, use a 3 or 4 point blade.
 
The Autocut 25-2 is an excellent head for general mowing purposes. I was taught many years ago by a very wise man at Stihl how bump & feed heads work. A bump head doesn't care what you want, it is going to do what it pleases- you can only suggest it do a particular thing such as feed more line. For a bump head to feed more line a few conditions must be met- the engine must be revved up so the head is spinning fast, and there must be an adequate amount of line sticking out. A bump head relies on centrifugal force to PULL more line out- the line that is sticking out of the head PULLS more line out. The more line that is sticking out, and the higher the RPM, the greater the centrifugal force. If the head isn't spinning fast and/or there isn't an adequate amount of line, the head won't feed properly. Nothing tells that spool which way to turn, except for the pull of the line. If there isn't adequate pull, the spool may rotate the wrong way and suck the remaining line back in just to be spiteful since you aren't doing it right. All bump heads are female- they will do what you want ONLY when all the circumstances are correct. You can only suggest a course of action and get good results when you understand how it works and do everything properly.
 
We mow 8 properties and run two FS-110 trimmers. The heads are very close to flawless in operation. Now and then we knock the line completely off and of course they wont feed until that is fixed. We had troubles with the first one feeding and the dealer said how old is your line and what brand?, answer was cheapo and a couple years (big spool). Threw a spool of Stihl on the counter and said here is your fix, hi quality AND fresh line. I said ya right, he tossed it to me and said come back and pay for it if it fixes your problem,,

he got paid for the line.

As far as I can tell the key to them working is to follow the dang instructions for winding and cleaning the head, use fresh and good quality line and dont run them until the line is 1/2" long before advancing it. That is of course barring that you have a defective head.
 
Don't wait too long to advance the line!

I have zero problem with my autocut head. I trim about 2000' of chain link fence on a regular basis in addition to all my trees and landscaping. I did have some problems at first, but now I have the hang of it.

I switched from Stihl to Echo cross fire line. The echo line is sort of a + shape and is a little "sharper" to me.

You have to be disciplined with the distance between the head and what you are cutting. Don't move the head closer to what you are trimming near, bump the line out regularly instead. I probably bump every thirty seconds when I am trimming. I tend to use a spool per two tanks of gas, but have used most of a spool in one tank of gas at times.

When you trim around trees, you try not to touch the tree with the trimmer line, right? the same goes for trimming along fence or rocks. You break the line when you get too close to things that are harder than the line. If you are just barely brushing the object with the line, it wont be as likely to break near the head.

If you're trying to trim a significant amount of woody stemmed stuff, forget the line head and get a brush cutter blade.
 
Good information about the bump feed head. I would add that I think it is the best I have ever seen of it's type.

If you are going after heavier brush, buy the 3pt "brush blade". It will be some of the best money you ever spend. I think they are close to $30 so most people shy away from them. It is an entirely different animal than the 4pt "grass blade". Imagine 100 day laborers with machetes working simultaneously and you get the idea. It will go through those blackberries like they are not even there. It will take down actual saplings too, up to about the diameter of your thumb.(which may be 5-6ft tall).
 
My 25-2 autocut is the most trouble-free I've ever used!?! I'm currently using a bulk spool of old cheap Shakespeare .095 line that's stiff and rotten but except for the occasional break-off it causes no trouble. I wrap 12' lengths of .095 or about 10' of .105

Thinking about it I do use a technique of sorts. Move head back to already cut grass, slight throttle and bump causing head to just disengage, then raise head and rev to extend the line and the head to lock back in. It requires touchy/feely on the throttle but you don't end up with 17" crop circles all over your yard and you have nice smooth feeds with little line waste. One bump on a full spool gives me 2" of line, if the spools about empty, 1" per bump telling me to wander back towards the house.
 
Thanks for all of the advice guys.

I took my 110 in to the dealer yesterday, and they showed me how to load the line into the head. I had not been doing it correctly. They also recommeded the .095 line, which was slightly smaller than the .105 that I had loaded in before and that came with the unit. In their opinion this was just as effective as the larger diameter line, but allowed more line to be loaded and worked just slightly better with the 25-2 head. Per recommendations here, I also picked up a 3 pt brush blade. It was a Stihl branded one, and expensive at $34. I'll try it out this weekend.
 
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