Help with Massively Stripped Threads

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Agrarian

Agrarian

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My Husky 262xp project saw has a threaded hole for the top cover that must have had the screww loose when running for a long time. It looks like a 1/4" pear-shaped hole where the M6 (?) threads once were. What is the best way to fix this problem? Is there a material I can fill the hole in with and then drill/tap to reform the threads? It is too badly distorted to simply use a Heli-Coil.

Thanks
 
The original thread for the top cover would be an M5 thread. I would grab a M5 STI tap and corresponding drill bit and see if the drill bit is slightly larger than your pear shaped hole. If it is not, you may be able to go with a time-sert drill bit (I believe they are larger) and try that. If all else fails find a bud that can heli-arc it for ya. Good luck...
 
If it's too warn out for heli-coil they make over-sized timeserts but the kits are expensive for only one repair. You can make your own threaded insert by drilling and taping it for a larger bolt and then drill and tap the center of a cut off bolt. Use a little red loctite when putting your custom insert in.
 
It depends on which hole it is stripped. The front holes don't have much extra meat that can be removed. I have tried to Heli-coil the front ones and they just break out when you screw in the Heli-coil. I have also tried JB and it hasn't held for long. If it is a back hole, they have enough extra metal to be retapped to a M6. You will need to open the holes in the shroud a little also.
I have a 262 with a busted hole in the front. I am going to have my friend TIG it and then re-tap it for M5.
 
Same problem...

I'm in the middle of a 262XP rebuild too and have the same problem. I just took some pictures that will show what you're talking about I think. There are 3 allen heads that hold the top cover to the crankcase, 1 in the front left and 2 in the rear. My only good one is the front one. The left rear is broken and the right rear is stripped and oval shaped now. I planned on using something like Quiksteel or JB Weld to repair the two messed up ones, but maybe this thread will change my mind. There's not a lot of torque on those bolts but there is lots of vibration to break apart JB Weld. I did run a M5 x .8 (I think) tap through the front one last night and it went in fine and was pretty tight so I'm going to leave that one alone. The rear right could probably be drilled and tapped for M6 but I was hoping to fill it with Quiksteel or something, drill and retap for M5. Anyone done that with any success?

Here are the pics. Front hole:
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Nhmvj5eQmDY/T3yCLqK9pUI/AAAAAAAAE3g/MWtdVbM0a5I/s1024/IMG_5952.JPG" alt="Front"/>

Rear left (broken):
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M5J99iewIyU/T3yBvFrE43I/AAAAAAAAE3Q/PV8aHAghzyA/s1024/IMG_5949.JPG" alt="Rear left"/>

Rear right (stripped and ovaled out):
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U7NUZruLd7k/T3yB869hZrI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/XNMLySBetrc/s1024/IMG_5951.JPG" alt="Rear right"/>
 
You can probably re-tap the RR to M6 and be ok. The LR is shot and the only solution I know of is to have it welded and re-tapped. I have tried JB for threads and never had it hold satisfactorily. I'm sure there are some threads where it will work. It does work well for plugging holes in oil tanks!!
 
The rear-right could be heli-coiled but the rear-left needs to be welded. If you were closer I would do it for free but shipping here and back is probably more than a local shop would charge you to weld it. Just make sure that they know it's magnesium and not aluminum... not everyone will have the right filler rod in stock to do mag. I'd split the case and take the crank out so the area can be bead blasted for better weld quality.
 
srcarr52 said:
The rear-right could be heli-coiled but the rear-left needs to be welded. If you were closer I would do it for free but shipping here and back is probably more than a local shop would charge you to weld it. Just make sure that they know it's magnesium and not aluminum... not everyone will have the right filler rod in stock to do mag. I'd split the case and take the crank out so the area can be bead blasted for better weld quality.
Click to expand...

Do you know if any chain stores carry heli-coils? Pickings are slim in Fairbanks.
 
upsize the thread

I'd either retap with a american SAE 12-24 which is slightly larger than M5.

Otherwise the earlier m6 is good if you can go that much larger.

Judging from the photo and the material the drill size is probably close to the stripped diameter?

A metal filled epoxy similar to JB WELD is good but drill to M5 tap + i'd use a coarse thread screw.
 
dellaquila said:
Do you know if any chain stores carry heli-coils? Pickings are slim in Fairbanks.
Click to expand...

Most automotive parts places carry heli-coils but not 5mm like you need. I usually get mine from Amazon or McMasterCarr and they will appear at my door step in 3-4 days, actually McMaster is usually next day because they have a warehouse in ChiTown.
 
PB brought me down a couple threaded steel inserts the were M8 X 1.25 outside and M5 X .80 inside. He got them at the Aubishon's Hardware. (SP) Just a regular hardware store nothing special. I don't know if you have enough meat there to use these but they worked great and were like under $10 for two. I fixed the two top recoil bolt holes on a 2071 and though it looked pretty tight in there, there was enough room to get these in.
 
I repaired a Husky 266 one time by JB welding 3 cut off bolts (creating studs sticking up) to bolt the cover down. One was broke out much like the picture above and the other two were very oblong. It was first class southern engineering but I do hold a doctorate degree in that......
 
Grande Dog said:
Howdy,
Here's what Husqvarna offers.
Regards
Gregg
Click to expand...


That is very close to the same type of insert PB brought me....except they were not selftapping, you had to drill out to the correct size and tap the M8 X 1.25 threads in the mag. then use a screwdriver and drop of red loctite and thread then in until just lower than flush..
 

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