Hesston 530 Round Baler

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Tree Feller

J &J Tree Service
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we just bought a used hesston 530 baler a few weeks ago. All in all it does a good job, tight uniform bales and feeds good. The problem is it will not cut the strings all the time after you tie the bale?? It's cutting them about 30% of the time. The knife is sharpe but not sure what is going on. Anyone know anything about ths baler???
 
Not much about that baler. Check if there is a twine tension adjustment. Also if you need to jockey the twine arm with remote wait til the feeding twine catches up before you try to cut.
 
Had a problem with our 5545 similar to yours. Double check and make sure that either a, the twine arms didnt get somehow bent, or b, that the springs on the back of the knives havent broken, and have sufficient tension to do their jobs properly
 
well i done some searching and come to find out this is a common problem for this baler? The twine was not staying on the table long enough for the knife to cut the string. we installed a bolt on the end of the table to catch the twine (but had to be low enough to miss the arm) and it started cutting every bale!! The best i can tell the later balers had somthing similiar installed from the factory? So turns out to be an easy fix. Thanks for the replies!!
 
well i done some searching and come to find out this is a common problem for this baler? The twine was not staying on the table long enough for the knife to cut the string. we installed a bolt on the end of the table to catch the twine (but had to be low enough to miss the arm) and it started cutting every bale!! The best i can tell the later balers had somthing similiar installed from the factory? So turns out to be an easy fix. Thanks for the replies!!

glad ya got it fixed. now git to work balin.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
We've got a Case IH baler, looks real similar. Possibly the same machine, I think it's an 8430?

Any way, there is a shear pin on the twine arm on ours. It sits under a little door, right behind the twine box. Sometimes, if you let a bale get too big, you can partially shear that pin. Or sometimes, they just come loose. That stops the twine arm from coming all the way back, to put pressure on the knife latch.

Also, with our baler, I after I'm done tying, I always move the arm back to the center of the bale for a second, then bring it all the way back. Seems like that helps a lot. Must bring the twine across the knife at a better angle or something.
 
We've got a Case IH baler, looks real similar. Possibly the same machine, I think it's an 8430?

Any way, there is a shear pin on the twine arm on ours. It sits under a little door, right behind the twine box. Sometimes, if you let a bale get too big, you can partially shear that pin. Or sometimes, they just come loose. That stops the twine arm from coming all the way back, to put pressure on the knife latch.

Also, with our baler, I after I'm done tying, I always move the arm back to the center of the bale for a second, then bring it all the way back. Seems like that helps a lot. Must bring the twine across the knife at a better angle or something.


I think it's the same baler? Anyway your right seems that it cuts the string better if you run it across then back and start back a little before you let it go? But for now it seems to be working! i'll keep that pin in mind as well. I found out the hard way if you let the bale get to big then it WON'T tie!:bang:
 
I think it's the same baler? Anyway your right seems that it cuts the string better if you run it across then back and start back a little before you let it go? But for now it seems to be working! i'll keep that pin in mind as well. I found out the hard way if you let the bale get to big then it WON'T tie!:bang:

I think everyone that's ever had one has found out the hard way :laugh:

If you've never changed that shear pin, you should try it. If I recall, it's just a 5/16 x 1 1/2" grade 5 bolt. If it is loose, or partially sheared, it will surely give you problems tying.
 

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