HEY BOB! What's steel, sharp. . .

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knaw I'll just wing it like all my forge projects... use the anvil as my measuring tape and just try to get the back side to be 5 3/4" ish... now to find some 3/16" plate or just thin out some old leaf springs, I'm not up to welding together cable just for some shoes though, takes all day just to get a usable amount of solid...

BTW, have you watched ArtistBlade's tutorial on cable Mokume? It's pretty freaking sweet.

Cable mokume tutorial - YouTube
 
No haven't watched it... mostly self taught, picked a few things up here and there watching other smiths at fairs and whatnot, read a whole bunch of books.


As far as cable shoes... give a bit of etch then blue em... buff with steel wool soak in linseed oil... could be a Hel of a Flea bay market for em...

I should get out there and start this project, but damnit the couch is comfy...
 
I should be fabing up the rear end of the bed for my truck today and fitting up the new cab corners and door bottoms... but as you said the couch and or chair is comfy lol.
 
Nate I'd be interested in a template. The old man learned how to make cable wire knives from an old guy who worked in his dads smithy as a kid. If ya break one wire he considered it defective lol

Also the North West Blacksmith Association has lots of vendors at their conferences. Dad used to be a member and I've been to several but he dropped. Lot's of artsy folks there but very skilled. Seattle is one of the hot spots for blacksmiths, especially for the northwest. Anyways one of the vendors who is passed now made all kinds of nice dies and hardie holders. Had a dies stand and cut-offs and butchers. lol
 
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Nate I'd be interested in a template. The old man learned how to make cable wire knives from an old guy who worked in his dads smithy as a kid. If ya break one wire he considered it defective lol

Also the North West Blacksmith Association has lots of vendors at their conferences. Dad used to be a member and I've been to several but he dropped. Lot's of artsy folks there but very skilled. Seattle is one of the hot spots for blacksmiths, especially for the northwest. Anyways one of the vendors who is passed now made all kinds of nice dies and hardie holders. Had a dies stand and cut-offs and butchers. lol

Here are the the split-tail or the straight-taper ones. When you go to print, make sure your print settings are set to "Actual Size". :)
 
Lemme know if you need some small chunks of flatbar for future ones, i might know a cat that could hook that up

K. . . But only if we can meet in a dark, seedy alley, and we do an exchange out of the trunk of a '85 Buick Lesabre.

:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Deal, how wide are them rascals, they looked like about 1/4" thick and maybe 4"-5" wide?

3 stinks thick, 3" at the nose, and 5 1/8" at the back (on the split-tail one).

BTW, them grinding wheels y'all use, they're Norton ????. They were one step below Norzon Plus.
 
3 stinks thick, 3" at the nose, and 5 1/8" at the back (on the split-tail one).

BTW, them grinding wheels y'all use, they're Norton ????. They were one step below Norzon Plus.

Yeah I think they were nortons??
lemme see what 3/16 I can start squirreling away, we don't use it near as much as 1/4 tho, I'm guessing that extra 1/16 wouldn't wear out yer hammerin arm tho :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Been doing some thinking on this springboard thing.

So, you have a normal 2X piece of wood. They're extremely rigid and strong on their side, but show far less dimensional strength across the grain on the widest 'flat' side.

attachment.php


Add defects like knots, severed grain, shake, etc -- and they become even weaker.

Now, Great-Grandpa wasn't no dummy. Modern folks would have us believe they were a bunch of knuckle-dragging Neanderthals -- but these same guys were building 300 year structures. . . Out of wood!

Now add a taper, properly cut in, and with some thought (especially on 1/4 sawn wood) -- you've removed some of your cross-section, lost weight, but you've also added what?

Anybody? I don't see any hands raised, so I tell you what I see. . . A radius or arch.

Now, to anyone who has studied structural members, knows them dern Romans were bad mama jamas when it comes to modern architecture. They done figured out, before christ was a lad, that the arch is a super structure for strength. They actually figured it was a circle that was the strongest, but you could use sections of a circle and get good results.

I personally think correctly adding a taper to your board will add strength, and not take it away.

Thoughts? :popcorn:

attachment.php
 
Yeah I think they were nortons??
lemme see what 3/16 I can start squirreling away, we don't use it near as much as 1/4 tho, I'm guessing that extra 1/16 wouldn't wear out yer hammerin arm tho :hmm3grin2orange:

Yeah, 1/4" is overkill fer these shoes. You can still squirrel me away some 1/4" though. And run out to the shop and bring a wheel in so'z you can tell me what the dern sticker says on it. :biggrinbounce2:


:msp_thumbup:
 
have you found any worthy fir for your springboards yet Bob ? id like to see these all put together if you have any pics ,im wanting to build some for my stepdad for a gift
 
“For FedEx and UPS, the costs are lower to deliver in urban areas, and higher in rural ones,” Del Polito says. “For the Postal Service, that cost structure is the exact opposite. So FedEx and UPS use the Postal Service for ‘last-mile’ delivery in many areas where it would cost them too much to deliver that mail -- they prepare it for re-entry via the Postal Service which then walks it out for final delivery.” (To put a number on this, Alan Robinson determined in 2011 that “30.4% of FedEx Ground shipments are delivered by the United States Postal Service.”)[/QUOTE]

THANKS!! now i know why,,ive seen ups, drop packages at the post office!!!
 
Nate what are ya doing for a backing plate or are ya using washers? Countersink holes for washer so the nut remains flat is kind what I'm thinkin? Or make a thicker threaded backing plate and using round holes instead of square ones... thoughts?

Wes

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