Hi I am from minnesota and need help solve with wood furnace!

[rags_the_dog]

Question: How can I make this Daka wood furnace run better?

Situation: It's run 24 hours in the 1400 sq ft garage.

Problem: Constant draft and black liquid dripping from the chimney toward the ashtray. I have to climb on the roof every 4-5 weeks to clean the chimney and scrape the black build up inside the furnace box itself.

Thanks for your input.

Minnesota

 

[chucker]

" welcome to a.s. "

WELCOME ! from a member that shares the same local as yourself... good to have you here in the fine state of minnisnowda!! again " WELCOME FRIEND AN NEIGHBOR " !!

 

[chucker]

OH YES.. it sounds like your having a moisture problem like green/wet wood... other cause could be to short of stack to draw the smoke out and condensing back to the firebox.... but im probably wrong!!

 

[rags_the_dog]

How do I know the wood is dry?

I've seen many piles of logs kept by other people covered by tarp and the wood are still wet so I'm not sure how to dry them out?

 

[rags_the_dog]

WELCOME ! from a member that shares the same local as yourself... good to have you here in the fine state of minnisnowda!! again " WELCOME FRIEND AN NEIGHBOR " !!

Hello and glad met y for new friend =)

 

[chucker]

How do I know the wood is dry?

I've seen many piles of logs kept by other people covered by tarp and the wood are still wet so I'm not sure how to dry them out?

i keep my piles wide open and uncovered while drying all year long! exceptions are when stacked for my own use it is covered only on the top side to shed rain!! nothing worse then trying to burn wet /soaked wood....

 

[mhyme71]

there are a few ways to know your wood is dry. it should be cracked on the ends and it sounds almost hollow when you bang it on concrete or frozen ground. Another way is to buy a moisture meter for about 30 bucks or so.

 

[chucker]

there are a few ways to know your wood is dry. it should be cracked on the ends and it sounds almost hollow when you bang it on concrete or frozen ground. Another way is to buy a moisture meter for about 30 bucks or so.

i can do a check for you if wanted or needed! moisture meter will let you know a few facts... just hollar neighbor...

 

[rags_the_dog]

Awesome! Thanks all for your help!

1) Where do I find/buy this moisture meter? (My wife worries I'd offend people if I went and tried to buy their wood bringing this meter with me. My wife!)

2) Is it true 2 years is the length of time before wood is dry?

3) Best way to dry my cords--inside my garage or outside?

Pillager neighbor--you're welcome to come by our place. Just head up, I have dogs. If you don't like dogs, I just need to know ahead of time so I can put them in their crates. Looking forward to make a friend!

Thanks.

 

[chucker]

Awesome! Thanks all for your help!

1) Where do I find/buy this moisture meter? (My wife worries I'd offend people if I went and tried to buy their wood bringing this meter with me. My wife!)

2) Is it true 2 years is the length of time before wood is dry?

3) Best way to dry my cords--inside my garage or outside?

Pillager neighbor--you're welcome to come by our place. Just head up, I have dogs. If you don't like dogs, I just need to know ahead of time so I can put them in their crates. Looking forward to make a friend!

Thanks.

1) bought mine at hirchfeilds paints in baxter.
2) 2 years is good, but it depends on what you have to start with... 3) outside is best....direct sun and wind!!

 

[rags_the_dog]

Ok, thank for information! my wood almost run out.. so i start look for buy 1 cord dry wood

 

[dave_dj1]

I'm not familiar with the Daka wood furnace but a quick search and it appears to be a hot air unit? If this is the case, I would spend a day in the garage babysitting it one weekend. It sounds to me like you are not letting enough air in to burn the unit hot enough. That being said, maybe smaller, hotter fire? You should purchase a stack thermometer and see what kind of stack temps you are getting. One thing I have found is that wood needs air and people/technology tend to cut as much of that out of the equation as they can for longer burn times. If you do start to run it hotter, keep an eye on the stack temps and chimney (you may want to clean the chimney first) If you are getting black glazing on the inside of the firebox then you deffinately need a hotter fire. Maybe you could post a pic or two of the setup, including stovepipe run to chimney and chimney. A lot of things can affect the draft, barometric pressure, lay of the land, a tree too close to chimney, etc. etc.
If you look at your wood, if it is properly seasoned, you should see checks and or cracks on the ends. One other thing I always force myself to do is make sure my draft is open for about 15 min. after I put a load of wood in, this helps get the fire going and burns off some of the moisture. You can't just throw in an armload of wood and walk away!
Good Luck,
dave

 

[Uncle John]

Wood dries at different rates depending species.
The smaller the splits the faster it dries.
In my opinion outside uncovered is best.
Then cover it a week or two before heating season.
Beware what some firewood dealers call hardwood. And what they call seasoned.

 

[Whitespider]

rags-
What's your set-up? If your flue pipe runs out the side of the garage, or out a window, and than up the outside... Well you're gonn'a get a lot of condensation inside that cold outside pipe with a ton of build-up and liquid creosote running back into the stove, even with well seasoned wood (I know this because... well live 'n' learn). Best to run the flue pipe or chimney straight up through the building and out the roof so it and the flue gasses stay warm. If that's not a viable option the second best would be to use insulated pipe (expensive) and box it in on the outside. Be careful you do either properly... don't want to start the building on fire.

 

[Biker Dude]

The species of wood you are burning can play a role in your burn quality too. If you are burning wet Pine you will have more problems than if you burn dry Oak, Ash, or Elm. Soft woods tend to cause more problems than hard woods.

 

[CrappieKeith]

I'm not familiar with the Daka wood furnace but a quick search and it appears to be a hot air unit? If this is the case, I would spend a day in the garage babysitting it one weekend. It sounds to me like you are not letting enough air in to burn the unit hot enough. That being said, maybe smaller, hotter fire? You should purchase a stack thermometer and see what kind of stack temps you are getting. One thing I have found is that wood needs air and people/technology tend to cut as much of that out of the equation as they can for longer burn times. If you do start to run it hotter, keep an eye on the stack temps and chimney (you may want to clean the chimney first) If you are getting black glazing on the inside of the firebox then you deffinately need a hotter fire. Maybe you could post a pic or two of the setup, including stovepipe run to chimney and chimney. A lot of things can affect the draft, barometric pressure, lay of the land, a tree too close to chimney, etc. etc.
If you look at your wood, if it is properly seasoned, you should see checks and or cracks on the ends. One other thing I always force myself to do is make sure my draft is open for about 15 min. after I put a load of wood in, this helps get the fire going and burns off some of the moisture. You can't just throw in an armload of wood and walk away!
Good Luck,
dave

:agree2:
Daka is made down in Forest lake.
As mentioned it does not sound like it is burning hot enough if your wood is dry.
I also know that since that brand is not very efficient to be getting super long burn times also is an indicator that the air to the fire is being limited .
Your issue may not be just 1 thing either. You flue could be poorly insulated causing some condensation,your wood could be too wet along with this lack of combustion air.
Having a black shiney creosote build up inside your furnace is very telling as too the fire not burning hot enough,hence the massive/excessive buildup.

Pictures or description of the flue will help us help you.

 

[rags_the_dog]

More information about my Daka etc

Hello Everyone!

* my pipes have insulation
* Daka was made in 1982 in Pine River, MN.

Link for this is: DAKA | Supplementary Wood-burning Furnace

*When I start the fire, I open the draft until the fire is running full force. Approximately 20 minutes later, I shut the draft. Then I let the air flow move on it's own in curve (smoke toward the chimney). The air control is on automatic. When the air is cold, it opens on its own. When it's hot then it stops.

*I used to own Hot Blast and Englander Furances. Both were too hot for my garage and I didn't like the control. Daka works really well--control is easy to use and the ashtray is big. Blower works well.

*Drawback is black crestotes.

Chucker--one of member on this group is coming tonight with a load of dry wood. We'll see if that works better. I hope so!

Photos of my Daka is found in this link...

Welcome to Kodak Gallery!




Thanks.

 

[rags_the_dog]

I tired post with picture but didnt work.. i will try again tomorrow ok?

 

[CrappieKeith]

I tired post with picture but didnt work.. i will try again tomorrow ok?

Don't make me drive over there Rags...
your not that far away ya know!

 

[chucker]

" Don't make me drive over there Rags...
your not that far away ya know! " hey keith ! you know i was there yesterday delivered a load of dry oak to a neighbor... was going to stop and say hi? but figured you were out fishing!! instead of doing the firewood bit... have a great day friend.