History of Bow Saws

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I've found the 10-10's to rev up higher, with more useable power on top.............while the SXL's have more 'lugging power'. That's why I was thinking about using one of my SXL's (rather than a 10-10) as a bow saw......................since from what I understand bow bars require grunt. I also 'only' have one 10-10, while I have a few SXL's. My PM700 will continue to wear a 24" sprocket nose (and the CB clutch cover). I'd run a bow bar on my 7-10A if I found one for a 10-series Mac. Don't want to modify/butcher the nice short "brakeless" clutch cover that's on that saw however. Got no qualms about cutting an SXL clutch cover. I have a Poulan 306A and a Dayton branded Poulan 245SA that'd be good to run a bow bar too...........and I do have one extra clutch cover for those that I could cut (if I don't happen upon one of the bow saw specific CC's that Poulan made). Hmmmm..... It really depends on which bow bar I happen upon first (Homelite/Poulan/McCulloch). They're not common here, and they go for "runing saw" money on feebay...

Remember Aaron that there is a non-running set up like that Homelite just sitting and waiting in Dike...

Mark
 
Perfect fit

Thanks to Mr. Bowsaw, I have a guard for my brush bar. Everything lined up - bolt holes, bolt clearances & guard clearances. Also the bow takes the same DL count as my MAC 24" bars. :clap:

Thanks again, Cliff, for setting me up with this guard. Here are a couple of shots of it mounted on my 1981 PM700. Ron

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This saw came together from two parts saws and a Bow bar
that was hanging on the wall for a few years.

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