Just got a call from the shop that is putting a carb kit on my C5 Homey. They tell me that the carb will not seal and that it is leaking gas. Said they have done all they can and asked me to come pick it up. This saw ran fine last season. Is it possible for the cylinder to warp or the carb base to warp in that time? I am not a wrench so tend to be clueless and have trusted what these guys have told me in the past. They are going to charge me for the carb kit only... What would the carb kit typically cost for this saw in a shop and is there anything else that could be done to save this old saw that is not going to cost a fortune. I hate to scrap a good old saw like this.
Homelite C5 Carb Question
- Thread starter mjbilbo
- Start date
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RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
The kit would run $12-20.
Sounds like they dont have much experiance with the old Tilly's.
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Sounds like they dont have much experiance with the old Tilly's.
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thanks for the info. They may not have much experience with those carbs. I am in the Denver area and would like a recommendation if anyone knows of someone in this vicinity that is a good carb person in the Rocky Mountain region.
GPH85
ArboristSite Operative
? The carb kit RK-88HL is the only kit even still offered for these saws and it just so happens that these are the major repair kits "have seals that aren't normally in the minor repair kits". They should list for somewhere in the $12 - $20 range as previously stated. If the shop couldn't get it to stop leaking, they either don't know how to change simple gaskets, adjust a float or have stripped some screws out.
Then again, most of these old carbs would seep a small amount through the gaskets, but no major leaks.
Then again, most of these old carbs would seep a small amount through the gaskets, but no major leaks.
hoss
Addicted to ArboristSite
Plus 1 on the stripped screws, an hl carb kit should be no trouble at all. All the parts are nice and big and easy to get to. Even a COMPLETE rebuild(welch plugs and all) should only take about an hour .
I am going to pick up the saw on Monday and take it to someone else that knows the Tilly carbs. Most feedback I get is these are difficult to rebuild correctly but by no means impossible and most anyone that knows how to do carbs should be able to do an adequate job.
JohnL
Addicted to ArboristSite
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Another C5 Question
2 additional questions regarding the C5 for those of you who would know better than me;
What would be acceptable compression on this 77 cc motor to have it running strong?
What length bar can this saw realistically pull? 24" ?
Thanks for the help.
Want to keep this old saw chewing wood for at least a few more years.
Mike
2 additional questions regarding the C5 for those of you who would know better than me;
What would be acceptable compression on this 77 cc motor to have it running strong?
What length bar can this saw realistically pull? 24" ?
Thanks for the help.
Want to keep this old saw chewing wood for at least a few more years.
Mike
Last edited:
hoss
Addicted to ArboristSite
To run real well you'd like to have about 150-160# compression. This saw should have no prob pullin a 28incher with a good skip chain. Good luck.
GPH85
ArboristSite Operative
Compression even on a C5 with new cylinder, piston/ring assembly, new seals, reed valve and so on will only have right around 125lbs compression. These older saws had "HUGE" quench areas in there combustion chambers. Heck I think my modified C5 still has right around .100" clearance and even with that it still has 180 - 185 lbs compression...
As for bars, the C5 was originally advertised with 14", 17" and 21" bars capable, BUT these were hard nose bars and if you were running a sprocket tip bar, I would say 24 or so inches easy enough.
As for bars, the C5 was originally advertised with 14", 17" and 21" bars capable, BUT these were hard nose bars and if you were running a sprocket tip bar, I would say 24 or so inches easy enough.
hoss
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a c-51. the first compression test I did on it read 145#. I thought this was low, so after rebuilding the carb I installed new rings. After about six tanks run through cutting all sizes of wood, I tested compression again and got 160#. Also mine came with a 24inch hardnose bar and I ran full comp .404 chisel on it with no problems whatsoever. Maybe mine was an anomaly but this was my experience.
GPH85
ArboristSite Operative
Wow... Are you sure your compression gauge is reading correctly? Is it possible you have a C7/C9 crank in that baby?
Maybe it's my gauge...
All the readings from saws I've seen are about as follows.
C5 = 110 - 130 lbs
C7 = 145 - 160 lbs
C9 = 130 - 160 lbs "even with the bigger piston they're usually right around 145 due to there bigger combustion chambers"
My personal restored "no cylinder rechroming" has 115lbs and my C51 "all pretty much original" has 125lbs. Haven't checked the C52's...
I know these saws are more than capable of pulling bigger bars, but the bars I listed is what Homelite advertised the saw with. Plus the C5 only came from the factory with 3 clutch shoes which slipped worse with the bigger bars under heavy loads. Personally I wouldn't run anything over the 19 incher without upgrading the clutch.
I would love to run that C51 with 160 on compression. I know on my modified saw extra compression makes a big difference on these old gals.
Maybe it's my gauge...
All the readings from saws I've seen are about as follows.
C5 = 110 - 130 lbs
C7 = 145 - 160 lbs
C9 = 130 - 160 lbs "even with the bigger piston they're usually right around 145 due to there bigger combustion chambers"
My personal restored "no cylinder rechroming" has 115lbs and my C51 "all pretty much original" has 125lbs. Haven't checked the C52's...
I know these saws are more than capable of pulling bigger bars, but the bars I listed is what Homelite advertised the saw with. Plus the C5 only came from the factory with 3 clutch shoes which slipped worse with the bigger bars under heavy loads. Personally I wouldn't run anything over the 19 incher without upgrading the clutch.
I would love to run that C51 with 160 on compression. I know on my modified saw extra compression makes a big difference on these old gals.
GPH85
ArboristSite Operative
Well, it really depends on whether or not it's already been upgraded or not. Odds are it hasn't. All you have to do is remove the sprocket and drum assembly, pop your outer spring off, slide the present shoes out and slide the new ones in. You have to kinda twist the shoes out to keep from popping the back side spring off, but other than that it's very fairly simple.
Now the really hard part... Finding the 6 shoes to put back on the saw. Near impossible to find new clutch shoes for these saws. My advise is to just keep an eye on ebay.
The 3 shoe setup will work ok, but you really need to hold back a little or use a full skip chain on longer bars.
Now the really hard part... Finding the 6 shoes to put back on the saw. Near impossible to find new clutch shoes for these saws. My advise is to just keep an eye on ebay.
The 3 shoe setup will work ok, but you really need to hold back a little or use a full skip chain on longer bars.
