Homelite XP project. lots of pictures (Cutting video)

[Red97]

I just wanted to share my garage sale homlite xp 1020 project. It has seen some use some missing parts, and some broken.










The piston & cylinder look good. Has around 140psi comp. But no spark, I cleaned and gapped the points. Still no spark I am hoping it is the condenser. I ordered a nova II module for it to replace the points and condenser.

Figured I might as well go through the fuel system. The line in the carb box was very hard so I figured the line in the tank woud be junk too. 4 broken tank screw I find this



It was still intact! very surprised because the guy said it hadn't run in years.

My plan is to
1, pull & clean cylinder/ piston with new rings remove base gasket possibly port exhaust
2, strip/ repaint work quality, I don't want to be afraid to use the saw.
3, rebuild carb/ fuel system
4, install nova II module

I want to run 41" bar with this saw I also have a 60" I want to put on for fun. It has the Oregon rim sprocket drum 404x7.
If I am tearing it down this far, would you guys take it down all the way and replace all the crank seals, bearings gaskets?
I am also looking for a muffler cap # A59963
muffler shield 63733-2
and a flush cut handle bar A-58379-2
If you have any of those parts for sale please let me know.

Thank you

 

[Red97]

started repairing the recoil cover. The peg that helps support the starter pully broke off, so the previous owner drilled all the way through and put a longer bolt and double nut it.



The bushing was shot in the recoil pully. so I chucked up a piece of brass and turned a new one. I am going to drill the hole in the cover to 3/8 and tap it. then make an aluminum shaft like the one in the picture that threads into the cover and supports the pully. That way I can sand the extra flush with the outside of the recoil cover

 

[watsonr]

Contact "Chainsaw lady" Joyce. She can probably get you new old stock parts for a good portion of that saw. Also, the handle in question, that is the flush cut I believe, 1/2 wrap handles are referred that way so you can get the bar down on the ground. The only other handle would be a full wrap, that won't work for a flush cut. Did you check the UTC numbers against the book, that handle sure looks like a C-9 handle to me, but the paint job with the green starter cover.

If your going to fully restore, sure, pull it down. But most of these old saws have never seen ethanol, the interior rubber is usually in pretty decent shape. Finding the rubber parts is more the challenge and part of the fun.... enjoy!

 

[Red97]

I will pm chainsawlady. Thank you. I dont think it needs a full restore. I just want to spruce it up some. I plan on using the saw once I get it done.
The handle could be from a c-9 I will check the ut number. It got tweeked pretty good I am going to try and straighten it out.
I have never taken a saw apart before so I wasn't sure if it was common to replace everything while you are at it. Thanks for the help.

 

[zogger]

Nice old saw man, good luck with the rebuild! Add an update once it is running and you got some wood eaten with it!

 

[Red97]

Nice old saw man, good luck with the rebuild! Add an update once it is running and you got some wood eaten with it!

Thank you, I plan to update as I go

 

[Cantdog]

I will pm chainsawlady. Thank you. I dont think it needs a full restore. I just want to spruce it up some. I plan on using the saw once I get it done.
The handle could be from a c-9 I will check the ut number. It got tweeked pretty good I am going to try and straighten it out.
I have never taken a saw apart before so I wasn't sure if it was common to replace everything while you are at it. Thanks for the help.

Personally I would replace the crank seals if you are going to do all other rebuilding you said........cheep insurance...can only expect 30-40 years out a set of crank seals.....if one of them fails, especially likely, with upped compression/vac figures from the new rings, long bar, etc. and toasts your top end....you are back to square one......or maybe back beyond square one....

 

[Red97]

Personally I would replace the crank seals if you are going to do all other rebuilding you said........cheep insurance...can only expect 30-40 years out a set of crank seals.....if one of them fails, especially likely, with upped compression/vac figures from the new rings, long bar, etc. and toasts your top end....you are back to square one......or maybe back beyond square one....

That makes sense. I don't have much into the saw as of right now. I might as well just do the whole thing once and be done with it for another 40 years. lol. Hopefully I will still be able to run it when im 60.

 

[Red97]

I finished the recoil cover now I just have to strip and paint

The old monster lathe I was using has a 4 jaw that dosent get any tighter than 1" so I had to turn the peg out of some 1.5" stock


all done drilled/tapped the cover to 7/16-14



secured with locktite drilled and tapped for a 10-24 capscrew



pully with new bushing installed. I still need to get a 1/2 thrust washer and the right length screw




outside after I ground it down. No more stupid hole and nuts.



I have about 3 hr into it. so I could have bought a new one for the price but I wanted to see if I could fix it myself instead
I think it turned out pretty well.

 

[watsonr]

Nice job

 

[67L36Driver]

I finished the recoil cover now I just have to strip and paint

I have about 3 hr into it. so I could have bought a new one for the price but I wanted to see if I could fix it myself instead
I think it turned out pretty well.

Some things you do just because you can.

Tip: The overrunning sprag on the starter works best nearly dry and clean. Just a spritz of WD 40. Gob of grease is a definate no no as it won't grip.

 

[cgraham1]

opcorn:I love seeing these old saws getting fixed up. Nice work!

 

[Red97]

Checked out the gas tank, the holes are all 80% stripped out. I fudged up one hole trying to get the last broken screw out, cracked the boss on the inside so I ground it down and tried again. It is the first hole from top left corner in picture. So I decided to drill all the holes out and tap them for 10-24 cap screws.

If anybody has a c-xp tank with busted screws use a 8-32 screw, I have to polish the heads a little bit on 10-24 to fit in the recessed pockets.

 

[Red97]

Some things you do just because you can.

Tip: The overrunning sprag on the starter works best nearly dry and clean. Just a spritz of WD 40. Gob of grease is a definate no no as it won't grip.

That is very true. I have the equipment available, so I try to make any thing I can. I'm still learning. This was my 3rd project on the lathe ever. lol that is why it took so long.

Thanks for the tip. The sprag is in pretty good shape, It only missed once in the 40 pulls trying to get a pop out of the old girl.

 

[Deleted member 83629]

when you seal the tank use yamabond of hondabond because it is some good stuff to seal gaskets and fuel tanks on a saw but it is a little pricey.

 

[Red97]

when you seal the tank use yamabond of hondabond because it is some good stuff to seal gaskets and fuel tanks on a saw but it is a little pricey.

thank you, Isnt that the same stuff people use when they remove base gaskets? To seal crank case to cylinder?

 

[Deleted member 83629]

thank you, Isnt that the same stuff people use when they remove base gaskets? To seal crank case to cylinder?

yes it is i use it on all of my small engines and autos it has came in handy but i use hondabond as it resists gas/oil and some other chemicals.
not really sure about yamabond never used it but i heard it is good.

 

[67L36Driver]

Yup, #8-32 works better. I had to do three or four in one of the 'C' type tanks I've delt with. You have to increase the clearence hole size in the cover just a touch.

The hondabond/yamabond is the same stuff. Get it at your local m.c. dealer (duh!). L.O.L..

I prefer my home made gasket with Permatex gasket shellac. Get the fabric reinforced rubber material at your F.L.A.P.S. (friendly, local, auto parts, store). Felpro or Victor.

If that pup don't have a compression release you are in for a suprise................................They Bite!

 

[Red97]

Yup, #8-32 works better. I had to do three or four in one of the 'C' type tanks I've delt with. You have to increase the clearence hole size in the cover just a touch.

The hondabond/yamabond is the same stuff. Get it at your local m.c. dealer (duh!). L.O.L..

I prefer my home made gasket with Permatex gasket shellac. Get the fabric reinforced rubber material at your F.L.A.P.S. (friendly, local, auto parts, store). Felpro or Victor.

If that pup don't have a compression release you are in for a suprise................................They Bite!

I might try and helicoil the tank if I have any 8-32, But I already opened the cover holes for 10-24 clearance. oops.

A gasket dosent sound too bad I might give that a try. The shellac you are talking about, is that the high tack stuff?

No compression release. lol I have a super xp 1020 that is pushing 175 psi, I got me for the first time the other day. I know what to expect now. Thanks for the warning.

 

[Stormy]

opcorn:I love seeing these old saws getting fixed up. Nice work!