"hook" or chisel angle when sharpening well used chains. Update: New Chain and Chip Pics.

[Philbert]

I have new shots of my cutters but I am going to spin the shots off into a new thread. Here is sneak peak:

Looks much better! Now blow it off with an air hose to keep all those filings out of the chain, groove, and nose sprocket.

Here is a video on the roller guide. Pretty good, except that it almost looks like he is filing back-and-forth with the round file, instead of moving it away on the back stroke. And that he sounds like the cartoon character 'Snagglepuss'.



Philbert

 

[Terry Syd]

The cutter looks great, but I can see that you haven't trimmed the raker down to set the cutting angle. The raker plate has two holes to trim the raker with (hard and soft wood) - AND the raker plate is PROGRESSIVE. That is, as the cutter is shortened by filing it needs to be progressively taken down to keep the cutting angle.

The cutting angle is the angle that the cutter enters the wood at. Forget what a lot of guys on the forum say about setting the rakers at 25 thousands or 30 thousands - it is the angle that matters. That angle is a trigonometric function of the raker depth and the width of the gullet. I'll see if I can find Bob's thread on cutting angles and progressive raker plates.

Here it is - http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/

 

[ANewSawyer]

The cutter looks great, but I can see that you haven't trimmed the raker down to set the cutting angle. The raker plate has two holes to trim the raker with (hard and soft wood) - AND the raker plate is PROGRESSIVE. That is, as the cutter is shortened by filing it needs to be progressively taken down to keep the cutting angle.

The cutting angle is the angle that the cutter enters the wood at. Forget what a lot of guys on the forum say about setting the rakers at 25 thousands or 30 thousands - it is the angle that matters. That angle is a trigonometric function of the raker depth and the width of the gullet. I'll see if I can find Bob's thread on cutting angles and progressive raker plates.

Here it is - http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/

I did use the depth gauge on the roller guide. I used the hard wood hole in the raker guide. I guess it is not fine enough of a raker gauge. I will try to understand what BobL is saying. I had no idea rakers were such a big deal.

Do you think I should start a new thread? I have some more photos.

 

[Philbert]

Do you think I should start a new thread? I have some more photos.

I would keep it in this thread so that people can keep track.

JMHO

Philbert

 

[ANewSawyer]

Well, first the money shot. No pun intended. And one of my favorites. I happened to pull that penny out of my pocket and 1991 is one of my favorite years.



A pile of chips I picked up and the previous chip came out of it.





And the log from which the chips came.



And some more cutters. BTW, these ere before I blew the chain off. I used canned air because that is all I have.

 

[Philbert]

Happy?

(P.S. old toothbrushes also helps to remove saw filings, etc., if you don't have compressed air.)

Philbert

 

[ANewSawyer]

I will remember that about toothbrushes. I can get a 5 pack on brushes for $1. I keep several packs around.

Well, click the link and zoom in on this picture. Then you will know how happy I was. The round from the log is about 3" across. Doh, I meant inches NOT feet. Used the wrong mark.

 

[heyduke]

Well, I am not planning to do any racing and bore cutting is way out of my league. But I did want to know if "low" kickback chain would make a difference in cutting. Good to hear that is won't.

I have new shots of my cutters but I am going to spin the shots off into a new thread.

Nice work you're making good progress. good photo too. try to also get a shot with two or three cutters from a 90 degree angle to the chain and one from above looking down at three cutters. they will show the face of one cutter, the side plate angle of the other and the set of the depth gauges. the top-down view will show the top plate shape, angle and length uniformity.
like this:


sorry, i couldn't find a top down view, though i know a have a few somewhere.

the camera is so unforgiving, a good way to evaluate your work.

 

[treeslayer2003]

much better........nice long chips.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Heyduke, duly noted and logged.

The way your raker look interests me. Should I be taking more metal off the front of my rakers? Leave the very back of the raker at the height of the gauge and turn the rest into a gentle slope.
I am just worried about how close the raker are to the anti kickback bumper.

 

[Terry Syd]

The raker plate already puts a slight angle on the front of the raker, there's no need for you to add to it. When the raker wears down to the bumper, the file trims the bumper back too.

The bumper primarily works in the 'kickback' region of the bar, that is, the top 1/4 of the sprocket nose. Take a look at that part of the bar and you will see how the bumper starts to lead ahead of the raker as it moves through the turn.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Hey, Terry (or should I call you sid?) does it still look like my rakers need trimed?

I should mention that I had little to do with all the chips flying. At most, this was my third time to sharpen a chain. It is thanks to all the good knowledge here, the friendly people who shared that knowledge and a helping hand from Above.

Though I am sure that I have much, much more to learn.

 

[jeff taswelder]

Man I love AS
The advice from all of you has been really well written and well meant.
And to the OP well done on your chain

 

[Terry Syd]

The Syd part of my forum name comes from my name on forums when I was living in Sydney. I haven't lived there for more than 6 years, but I'm still using the name on those same forums rather than change it.

Nope, I think you've got the hang of trimming the rakers.

A note on trimming the rakers, I think Bob may have alluded to it in his thread, but I'll just mention it. A lot of guys file the tops of the rakers flat with the file. As I mentioned, the cutting angle is a trigonometric function of the width of the gullet and the CONTACT point on the raker with the wood. If the raker is flat, the contact point is at the front and it reduces the cutting angle. However, the raker plate always keeps just enough slope on the top of the raker so that the contact point is at the rear of the raker.

 

[Philbert]

I file or grind the depth gauges flat. Then round them over to the factory profile work a file or a ScotchBrite deburring wheel.

Philbert

 

[KenJax Tree]

LGX hit with a file right outta the box

 

[ANewSawyer]

The Syd part of my forum name comes from my name on forums when I was living in Sydney. I haven't lived there for more than 6 years, but I'm still using the name on those same forums rather than change it.

Nope, I think you've got the hang of trimming the rakers.

A note on trimming the rakers, I think Bob may have alluded to it in his thread, but I'll just mention it. A lot of guys file the tops of the rakers flat with the file. As I mentioned, the cutting angle is a trigonometric function of the width of the gullet and the CONTACT point on the raker with the wood. If the raker is flat, the contact point is at the front and it reduces the cutting angle. However, the raker plate always keeps just enough slope on the top of the raker so that the contact point is at the rear of the raker.

So I only round the raker over if I am filing it flat. Like Philbert says below.

Chris, nice looking cutter!

 

[heyduke]

Heyduke, duly noted and logged.

The way your raker look interests me. Should I be taking more metal off the front of my rakers? Leave the very back of the raker at the height of the gauge and turn the rest into a gentle slope.
I am just worried about how close the raker are to the anti kickback bumper.

you're very observant, a tip of my hard hat. in a word, yes. do a search for file-o-plate threads. the theory is that cutters when working do not sit flat on the bar but tip up in front. by angling the depth gauges down in front you maintain the correct clearance. some wizards think that depth gauges are equally important with cutters. interestingly, the husqvarna roller guides have depth plate guides that accomplish that. one problem with low-kickback chain is that eventually you will be filing the bumper.

since you are thinking of posting fotos of your finished chains, here are examples of what i use to evaluate my sharpening jobs. this is a chain i did today, preparing for a firewood run later in the week. the chain was not dull but had lost some of its magic. barring a mishap it will throw big chips all day and i'll bring back a full cord without needing to go to my back-up saw.







by the way, i did not clean this chain. this is the way it came back with the last load. if you're making big chips and no "masa harina" (corn meal), the saw stays clean.