How do I get that "self feeding" back into my chain?

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kielbasa

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Hi guys, is it possible to regain the self feeding performance when resharpening a chain? Here is my situation: In the past year I've cut approx 25 cords of wood (locust and box elder) and am touching up (freehand filing and filing with a guide, depends on the mood I'm in) the chain about every 1~2 tankfuls of fuel. I can file it to make it cut ok, and get decent looking chips - however it's definitely not even close as when the chain came out of the box. Saw is an 026 with 16" bar. Chain I'm using is .325 RMC3 (yes, the safety chain). If I could get that chain to cut as when new I'd be real happy!
To see if my handfiling was to blame, I took the chain to two different reputable places to get them machine sharpened, however the performance again was not even in the same league compared to the chain when it was new. I have a hard time believing this is just the way it is, and I'm sure my sharpening technique is to blame (and so are the shops I've taken it to), but I personally don't know anyone that can show me how to file a chain that can cut to "day one" performance....any suggestions? Thanks!
 
check your rakers.

and if you file by hand, don't throw your hard work away by having them ground.

just my opinion.
 
I use a Carlton raker gauge (stamped metal)....both shops also checked the rakers and said they were fine.....
 
I use a Carlton raker gauge (stamped metal)....both shops also checked the rakers and said they were fine.....

I use that same one as a guide only. Same saw and rmc chain. Guide will show rakers are proper height but chain does not respond.

Give them 2 solid strokes each (or 3 for rmc3) you'll get your performance back.
 
I've tried several variations (anywhere from 1 stroke to 20 strokes)of raker depth......small differences in performance - my next step is to take a huge amount off the rakers, like .050" and see if I can start to dog the saw down.....
 
Just rying to cover all the bases here, is your chain adjusted properly, are you sharpening by hand/file if so are you getting the leading edge sharp? when GENTLY dragging your finger across the tooth it should grab the skin and the point should want to dig in, remember I said gently. If you have a new chain, never been on a saw, check it out, thats what you are looking for or better. I see alot of guys filing too low on the tooth and they are not getting that leading edge sharp. I also know alot of guys that you couldn't pay them to sharpen their chains on a machine. As far as that raker gauge that just gets you in the ballpark. If I take 4 strokes off the teeth I take 2 off the rakers or 6 off the teeth then 3 off the rakers and so on try to keep everything equal to keep the cut smooth not jerky. Some say thats too agressive with the rakers but I like short rakers on short bars on big saws makes for fast cuts and watch the chips fly. Good luck. :chainsaw:
 
If you have taken 20 strokes off they should allready be past 50 thou. I'd get a new file.
 
Just rying to cover all the bases here, is your chain adjusted properly, are you sharpening by hand/file if so are you getting the leading edge sharp? when GENTLY dragging your finger across the tooth it should grab the skin and the point should want to dig in, remember I said gently. If you have a new chain, never been on a saw, check it out, thats what you are looking for or better. I see alot of guys filing too low on the tooth and they are not getting that leading edge sharp. I also know alot of guys that you couldn't pay them to sharpen their chains on a machine. As far as that raker gauge that just gets you in the ballpark. If I take 4 strokes off the teeth I take 2 off the rakers or 6 off the teeth then 3 off the rakers and so on try to keep everything equal to keep the cut smooth not jerky. Some say thats too agressive with the rakers but I like short rakers on short bars on big saws makes for fast cuts and watch the chips fly. Good luck. :chainsaw:
Yes, I do notice that new chains are really sharp - I can't/don't know how to get it day one sharp....
a friend of mine also has some sort of file-o-plate deal, he pushes me aside and tells me to throw my fileguide into the garbage while he sharpened my chain ...well, it seemed to cut "ok", but again, NOTHING like the day the chain came out of the package - he told me I'm expecting too much - I replied for him to show me what to do to make my green labeled safety chain cut as it did when new....obviously he can't do it either.....
maybe I am asking too much???
 
I machine grind when real dull but then hand file after the machine grind to get the teeth how I like em. I have mine cutting pretty close to what it cut like new. put a new chain on and time a cut then put your hand filed chain on and time a cut in the same log and see just how far apart they are.
 
It certainly is an art.

after 4 or 5 times we used a file we put it in the trash also don't drag the file back tom trees

I was thinking that too.
How old is your file?
Are you really hitting the lead edge of the top plate?
I'm by no means an expert but I have noticed much better results with a new file.
If you have a magnifying glass - compare your filed chain to new out of box.
Post us some pics.
-br
 
Yeeeep...nothin' like a fresh file.
AVCKECAORT0A5CANK99PTCATLOUW7CAYT69.jpg
 
You're not expecting too much.
Keep filing, you'll get it down. Anyone who can't file a chain and make it out cut a new chain off the roll just needs to get some more experience filing.

Andy
 
thanks for the positive attitude! I'll keep filing and practicing!
I do use new files quite often (Pferd I think they are) - they're quite cheap for a pack of 6.
I went and looked at new Stihl chains while in the hardware store this evening - the factory profile has definitely more of a "hook" - I need to work on that.
 
thanks for the positive attitude! I'll keep filing and practicing!
I do use new files quite often (Pferd I think they are) - they're quite cheap for a pack of 6.
I went and looked at new Stihl chains while in the hardware store this evening - the factory profile has definitely more of a "hook" - I need to work on that.
There ya go! Just don't do the opposite.
You can also go to deep, going under the tooth, filing the top of the tooth off.

Gotta find that happy medium.
 
25 cord of wood on 1 chain ?????????????

You sure those are 128Cubic foot cords ..... thats really the only cord there is . a cord is a cord ..4x4x8 ft = 128 ... ...
.
. If you have , actually cut 25 cord of firewood with 1 chain , buy a new bar and chain ..in fact buy 3 chains ...When you go out to cut firewood bring 3 sharp , properly jointed chains , and get with the program cutting .. I,m betting you are getting a pretty good set of burrs on the outside edges of the bar ... They don,t let the bar slid down thru the kerf and so it seems the chain isn,t cutting .... Those Stihl saftey chains are a real problem .... .. . I use a 4" angle grinder and grind about half of it off .Mainly the tip ... Just too much stuff in the way of the chain ..
.
. What I do with the 260 Pros, I have had,, 4 at last count .. Some came with the .325 sprocket on them .. I took it off and put a 3/8 pitch rim on and a 20" 3/8 tip Oregon Power Match bar and ran oregon 72 CJ ... Or CL .... .. You can get it with the saftey driver , and it will still feed when cutting with the tip , and in all other respects acts like regular CL or CJ ............. I strongly recommend full skip chain to learn to file with as there are less cutters to deal with ............ If you do your filing @ home ect. you can concentrate more on it than on other stuff and do a better job of it ..........
 
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