How full do you load your stove?
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MS390 OAK CZAR
I very rarely load it full. I'm usually pretty conservative with loading it because invariably I'll end up having to crack a window or two, even if it's 0 degrees.
goanin
ArboristSite Operative
Depends how much heat you want..
Our weather is pretty mild, so we load the stove 1/3 of its space unless it's realy cold (we burn in cycles of course). I think if you load it full you're gonna have to reduce oxygen because you can't overheat the stove. This means more creosote. So I wouldn't do it.
Our weather is pretty mild, so we load the stove 1/3 of its space unless it's realy cold (we burn in cycles of course). I think if you load it full you're gonna have to reduce oxygen because you can't overheat the stove. This means more creosote. So I wouldn't do it.
During the day when I'm home, I usually put 2-3 splits in every few hours. For the overnight, I pack that sucker as full as I can stuff it, get it burning real good, then slowly back the air to fully closed. This will burn and stay hot all night long.
depends on whether its EPA stove or not.
non EPA= never add more than 1/3 firebox volume & never fill firebox over 2/3 full.........i read this years ago
EPA= fill on startup & light fire from front, try to get fire to burn from top of load down. rake coals to front on reload & add at least 3 splits............avoid adding wood atop coals if possible......i read this recently
non EPA= never add more than 1/3 firebox volume & never fill firebox over 2/3 full.........i read this years ago
EPA= fill on startup & light fire from front, try to get fire to burn from top of load down. rake coals to front on reload & add at least 3 splits............avoid adding wood atop coals if possible......i read this recently
Ductape
Addicted to ArboristSite
:agree2::agree2:
Thats how I roll. Three or four splits every few hours when I'm home. When I go to bed at night I pack that sucker full !!! I don't think I could live without a top loading door on my stove.
DocDryden
ArboristSite Member
EPA stove
OK,,,,, what is a EPA stove?
OK,,,,, what is a EPA stove?
Marc
Addicted to ArboristSite
Refers to a stove that meets the particulate emission requirements of EPA Phase II regulations (7.5 grams/hour non catalytic stove, 4.1 grams/hour for a catalytic stove). Basically a woodstove manufactured since 1990.
rwbinbc
ArboristSite Operative
I try to keep a hot bed of coals going all the time, But at night I pack it full and damp it down. I dont get up at night so there is still coals the next morning, May be a little cool. Last year even if we left for the day it never got below 58. The old insulation in the walls said 1923 (old news papers ) so My place is old and not the easiest to heat.
typical EPA stove hastubes on ceiling of the firebox with holes which connect to a constantly open source of preheated secondary air. The primary air is controled by a lever on front which preheats the air before it comes into the firebox above the glass door to feed the fire.
Note that both air sources come from above the fire at the same time that the pull of the chimnidraft is upwards. Both sources of air are preheaTED WHICH ALSO WANTS TO MAKE the air rise! Its all about air buoyancy, read my blog about "nature of fire" if u want
acme0007
ArboristSite Operative
I am looking into trying out an EPA stove in my shop. I see a bunch of stoves on Craigslist some look old school and some have full glass view. How do you tell if its an EPA, cat stove or none at all? Most of the time people don't know, i.e. bought house with stove in it.
I have a Fisher, not sure which one but not EPA or cat style.
thanks
I have a Fisher, not sure which one but not EPA or cat style.
thanks
typical EPA stove hastubes on ceiling of the firebox with holes which connect to a constantly open source of preheated secondary air. The primary air is controled by a lever on front which preheats the air before it comes into the firebox above the glass door to feed the fire.
Note that both air sources come from above the fire at the same time that the pull of the chimnidraft is upwards. Both sources of air are preheaTED WHICH ALSO WANTS TO MAKE the air rise! Its all about air buoyancy, read my blog about "nature of fire" if u want
CountryBoy19
ArboristSite Operative
The pre-heating has nothing at all to do with air buoyancy, it's all about efficient combustion. IIRC, secondary combustion requires temperatures of 1100 degrees for the combustion process to happen. If the air comes into the firebox preheated then it doesn't have to be heated up before the smoke/particulates can combust. This means that it can combust immediately rather than delaying the combustion process. If the process is delayed it allows some of the smoke/particulates to exit up the flue before secondary combustion occurs. Secondary combustion may not occur at all without preheating depending on how hot the stove is. So preheating gives you more efficient burning when secondary combustion takes place, and it permits secondary combustion to take place at lower stove temperatures.
the preheating is seemingly counterintuitive to getting air to the fire down below but ure on the right track.
Mike Williams
Addicted to ArboristSite
This is how I do it. I'm lucky enough to work from home so it's easy for me to throw a couple splits on every few hours. I also try to use up some of the odd chucks I always end up with during the day. I also burn in cycles.
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I actually hold on to my odd chunks and use them to pack the small spaces and the sides for overnight. My stove has a very small firebox, and it makes it hard to fit all regular size splits in and get it good and full.
Mike Williams
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's a good idea. I have a fairly small firebox as well. I'll have to try that
That's why I cut some of my wood down to like 10" before I split it. It allows me to put the 16" splits in, push them over to one side, then put the short splits on the side going N/S. It seems to work well!
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