How much back lean can you overcome withe wedges?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Revturbo977

Revturbo977

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 23, 2014
Messages
149
So I have a few trees to fell for a friend . I'm experienced and always want to be safe . But I haven't felled too many trees in yards. Most has been in thick woods where direction wasn't much of an issue. The trees I need to fell all need to go in the same direction. I've already taken two out of the way. The third one has a little back lean. I'd say about 2-3foot on a 45 foot tree. Now due to the yard arrangement there is plenty of room for the trees to fell but not so sure about a line with my truck. I'm curious on how much back lean can be overcome with wedges. I'd like to be able to get this done without the rigging, that said I'm not going to sacrifice the safety.
 
woodchuck357

woodchuck357

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
1,262
Location
arkansas
A lot can be done with wedges, but if there are things that might be damaged by the tree falling wrong, put a line high in the tree. Then you can pound wedges and if they don't do the job, no problem. Deeper notch, one that goes nearly to the middle of the trunk, will make wedges more effective. An open 90 degree notch can help control the fall by not breaking the hinge before the tree hits the ground. When felling for the sawmill I make the smallest notch that will do the job and wedge often, but when dropping yard trees I usually put a line in and use an wide open notch.
 

lfnh

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Apr 9, 2008
Messages
3,387
Location
blank
There are other tables out there, but this is osha's
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/felling/felling_direction_wedges.html

mind the diameter is measured from front face of hinge back to point where the closest wedge is placed (usually, but not always 180 degrees back from hinge). Wind, top loading variations, and stump integrity need to be taken into account.
Can't be guessing on lean. Plumb it. Need accurate height as well.
Chance of damaging things, rigging guy line (pulling) is a safe move.
 
derwoodii
Joined
Mar 20, 2009
Messages
27,636
Location
Victoria Australia
its an inverse equation over the value of the property behind the tree. the probability of success can be easily calculated by counting how many times you pace about fiddle with your gear & walk back and check the task as your cutting the scaff more than 5 twitches & better to put a rope on son better get real good one
 
imagineero

imagineero

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
May 14, 2010
Messages
3,512
Location
blue mountains australia
I find it's related to a combination of the size of your hammer and the size of your balls. You can substitute a bigger hammer for balls if you have a smaller brain.

The amount is so variable you can never bank on it. It depends on the species, the health, and even the season. A faller working with 10's of thousands of specimens of the same species will get a very clear idea quite quickly of how far he can push his luck, and what is going to be efficient. In a property scenario you only get one shot and you can't x-ray the tree to see how the inside looks so when in doubt always set a high line.
 
HuskStihl

HuskStihl

Chairin'em for the sound
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
6,163
Location
Hockley, TX
Very tree dependent. A not super limby pine will move quite a bit. Same with sweet gum. All comes down to how much strain the hinge can take before it breaks. A brittle species like alder won't take nearly as much stress before breaking. The weight of the top will also affect how much strain the wedges put on the hinge. If the tree could possibly hit the house, don't trust it. There may be an internal defect that causes the hinge to break, or you might simply mess up on theory or technique.
 
Revturbo977

Revturbo977

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 23, 2014
Messages
149
There is a possibility to hit the house if it fells completely to the right of the direction I want them to go in. I suppose I should have listened to my gut and figured out how to rig my lines instead of ask about wedging. I think I will run a block off of a tree across the yard and anchor somewhere else, or to my truck. There are too many trees behind the tree to fell in the leaning direction. Thanks for the advise
 
XSKIER

XSKIER

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Aug 11, 2012
Messages
2,562
Location
S.E. MI
After joining AS I learned the value of a throw line, and roping off a tree. Most of the times I'm felling trees that are too small to get a wedge all the way into. In this pic I'm felling at 90* to the lean. I'm only cutting from the ladder in order to save the stem for a decorative totem pole.

Holzeinschlag mit Motorsäge:
 
bitzer

bitzer

******** Timber Expert
Joined
Jul 21, 2009
Messages
3,867
Location
Hardwood Country
What is the diameter of the tree? Too deep of a face will give you a problem with wedging. Make sure you've got room to get wedges in there and not put too much pressure on the hinge. Moving the hinge fore and aft on the stump will do different things and can mean success or failure.
 
Revturbo977

Revturbo977

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 23, 2014
Messages
149

On this tree the hinge held up to wedging


Pretty sure the hinge broke during wedging with not awesome results

I certainly don't want that to happen . That was a massive tree to try and move. With all tht room in front I don't know why he wouldn't have used a line .
 
HuskStihl

HuskStihl

Chairin'em for the sound
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
6,163
Location
Hockley, TX

Latest posts

Top