how much pressure in a splitter tank?

[husky455rancher]

hydro tank expansion question

reason i ask is i have a small tank on mine maybe 3 gal or so i forget exactly. now i dont want to wided it any cuse it just fits through my cellar door. so what i came up with was a this little box. i welded it up with my little 110v mig and flux core wire. its full of water as we speak it holds a little over 1.5gallons.

ok heres my idea i was gonna cut some holes with a holesaw in the existing tank to allow the oil to flow freely into the new tank i made. i would make the holes as big as i could and make as many as i could. then weld the tank i made onto the existing tank covering the holes.


my main concern is im unsure about the amount of pressure generated in a hydraulic tank. i only have a litte 110v mig i dont want cut up my existing tank if this isnt gonna work.

so does this seem like alot of work for nothing? i would think 1.5 gallon added to a 3 gallon system would be a good amount of difference


any ideas or thought would be great thanks guys, Mike

 

[ms310]

Ventilation

All the hydro oil tanks that we use have a vented cap on them. So at that point there is no pressure.

 

[husky455rancher]

good point lol thats why i asked. seems pretty obvious now that i think about it.


anyway heres some pics of my plan any thoughts?


i would also put a few dussets under the tank for good measure.

 

[ms310]

quetions

Why are you expanding the size of the tank? Does it run out of oil when the cylinder is fully extended, or does the oil just get excessiveely hot?
secondley if i was going to do it i would just run an 1.5'' hose from the new tank to the old tank maybe on both ends. i WOULD NOT drill a bunch of holes in the tanks, to much room for failure as well as a good chance that you will get alot of scrapmetal in the tanks.
By the way nice compact splittter how many ton is it?

 

[husky455rancher]

yeah the tank gets pretty damn hot if i use it for a while. would the oil circulate well if i went with the hose method? i dont want to make it any wider than it is so it kinda limits me. i also want to install a filter while im at it.

oh and its a 16ton, splits a 20" log. which is all my stove will take so if it splits it fits it does pretty good im happy with it.

 

[husky362]

i agree with ms310 i would not do alot of drilling, maybe two holes, alot of cleaning of paint so weld will stick, rember you will get splater inside the tank so wash it out a few times, check for leaks,,,, use air to blow it out ,let it dry out good or the oil will milk up.......run the spliter a few times then change the filter for sure, you should be good to go if you decide to do this

 

[ms310]

my .02

Ok here is what i think. The oil is getting hot so you are expanding your tank. Put a hole in the new tank for the return, then feed the new tank into the old return hole. this will require no new holes in the old tank and two holes in the new tank. Make it so it has to circulate put in at one end pull it out the farthest distance from there.

 

[Rockland Farm]

Mike , Won't it be easier to to just mount a larger tank to it somewhere.Maybe underneath the beam lengthwise(but not where the wood will fall on it)that way it will still fit through the door.That seems like less worries to me.Give use a full view pic. of the splitter and I am sure these guys will come up with some good ideas.

 

[husky362]

depending on your return line you could build a separate tank that would have a air gap from the other tank. you would have to consider the intake and outlet position's and how the hose would be run to get it to work so one tank stays full draining into the other keeping the oil in the main tank at the proper level




not to descurage you,,,,,, rember air is a pumps worst enemy

 

[Crofter]

Your pump is returning 16gpm into the old tank. The holes or pipe from one tank to the other have to be able to transfer that amount at least, even cold, solely by gravity pressure alone. Think three five gallon pails or more, a minute! If it will not, the vent will overflow on the upper tank. You are not adding much heat dissipation by the extra volume alone, just by the extra radiating area of the additional tank surface. Consider looking in Norther Hydraulic or Princess Auto for a hydraulic return line heat exchanger.

 

[husky455rancher]

good ideas guys. i havent cut into anything yet. i went to tsc to look at the filters all they said was 25 micron no flow numbers or anything like that so i didnt get one. heres some pics of the splitter. looks to me like the oil in and out are right next to each other. i doubt theres a baffle inside. i bought it set up like that. ive added the legs to raise it up and a few other little things over the last 2 years.


might be a stupid question but would it be possible to set up an expansion tank like i do to my air compressor? meaning i put it on and take it off whenever i wanted. maybe using quick disconnect fittings or something? for those extended splitting times. if im not gonna split alot id just leave it off.

 

[ericjeeper]

add some cooling fins to the existing

Just weld several fins to the back of the tank they will pull the heat away from the tank and get some air to them.

 

[husky455rancher]

i actually thought about that. it wouldnt get much cheaper than that.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

good ideas guys. i havent cut into anything yet. i went to tsc to look at the filters all they said was 25 micron no flow numbers or anything like that so i didnt get one. heres some pics of the splitter. looks to me like the oil in and out are right next to each other. i doubt theres a baffle inside. i bought it set up like that. ive added the legs to raise it up and a few other little things over the last 2 years.


might be a stupid question but would it be possible to set up an expansion tank like i do to my air compressor? meaning i put it on and take it off whenever i wanted. maybe using quick disconnect fittings or something? for those extended splitting times. if im not gonna split alot id just leave it off.

Whats wrong with adding it permanently ? no worries about picking up foriegn material in the disconnects.

It's been mentioned that right angles and small lines in the pressure side of hydraulics create additional heat. Are the lines going into the cylinder or out of the pump long enough to replumb it without them ? Might not be as clean of a look but which comes first , form or function ? Fix the source of the heat build up and you need less cooling. Marginal differences do add up in your favor , or against you.

After posting and looking again at the pics ; Is the beam hollow ? It might add another gallon capacity with a lot of surface area to dissapate heat. 2 7/8" holes for a couple of pipe collars welded in and another 3/8" hole for an 1/8" pipe nipple and cap to bleed out the air. A Schrade valve would work as an air bleed too.

 

[husky455rancher]

i honestly have no idea if its hollow or not. there is a few 90* fittings on there i know of. ill have to look to see if i got enought slack to replumb it abit. im all about function see i didint even paint my legs i made lol.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

i honestly have no idea if its hollow or not. there is a few 90* fittings on there i know of. ill have to look to see if i got enought slack to replumb it abit. im all about function see i didint even paint my legs i made lol.

I did notice the welds werent seen so they didnt get painted.

It looks like there is a plate welded on the end of the beam. No point in it being there if it was solid.

If you didnt want to run a return line from the far end of the beam, install a coupler underneath the beam below the ram and the other in the center. Make sure it was out of the way of any falling splits. The fluid will fill the entire beam but only flow through half of it. The schrade valve could be installed in a 1/4" coupler and a reducer or just drilled and tapped on the end above the tounge. I would weld a tube or some strap around the valve to protect it from getting knocked off.

The holes may have to be adjusted from 7/8" for the dia. of the couplers.

Just a thought that doesn't add any extra dimensions to the splitter. It would only require one hydraulic hose to connect the two tanks, 3 pipe couplers, one reducer and one schrade valve or a tap for the valve, one hose, 2 couplers and a schrade valve

 

[Wet1]

Just weld several fins to the back of the tank they will pull the heat away from the tank and get some air to them.

+1... KISS!

 

[cityevader]

I was planning to add another tank myself. I've got a strong, yet somewhat thin (for heat dissipation) metal tank that held R134 refrigerant. I figure if I reroute the return hose to the second tank near the bottom, then have a hose near the top go back to the existing tanks return line inlet, then the second tank will always be completely full without compromising or modifying existing tank

 

[KsWoodsMan]

How much heat is being added by hot exhaust pointed on that tank ?

Everything adds up , either in your favor or against it.

 

[husky455rancher]

its not it just looks like it. its close but it really dosent make the tank hot i can keep my hand ontop of the tank while it runs.