how much pressure in a splitter tank?

[AKKAMAAN]

yeah the tank gets pretty damn hot if i use it for a while. would the oil circulate well if i went with the hose method? i dont want to make it any wider than it is so it kinda limits me. i also want to install a filter while im at it.

oh and its a 16ton, splits a 20" log. which is all my stove will take so if it splits it fits it does pretty good im happy with it.

"All" our hydraulic woodsplitters have a fixed deplacement pump and an open center directional opertion valve. When operating these kind off systems, its very important to pull operation valve lever to the very end, "full speed" or "on-off" operation. This is to make sure all hydraulic energy get transferred to WORK in the splitting ram (cylinder). What else happens is that directional valve will direct part of , lets say 75% of the pump flow to cylinder and 25% back to tank. That way 25% of the hydraulic energy will be transferred to heat. The oil that go back to tank that way, will quickly make system overheated. Check that you operate this proper way before adding a another tank. Also check your tank is big enough and filled properly, when piston is all the way in. Rule of thumb, 5 GPM pump = 5+ Gallon tank.

 

[Crofter]

"All" our hydraulic woodsplitters have a fixed deplacement pump and an open center directional opertion valve. When operating these kind off systems, its very important to pull operation valve lever to the very end, "full speed" or "on-off" operation. This is to make sure all hydraulic energy get transferred to WORK in the splitting ram (cylinder). What else happens is that directional valve will direct part of , lets say 75% of the pump flow to cylinder and 25% back to tank. That way 25% of the hydraulic energy will be transferred to heat. The oil that go back to tank that way, will quickly make system overheated. Check that you operate this proper way before adding a another tank. Also check your tank is big enough and filled properly, when piston is all the way in. Rule of thumb, 5 GPM pump = 5+ Gallon tank.

I agree that the valve should be all the way open when splitting but not so sure about your figures on the heat factor. For instance in the neutral valve position there is 100% return to the tank against no resistance and that is not much of a heating situation, however coming to the end of the stroke on an open centre system forces 100% flow through the relief valve, yet no work is done but that will quickly heat the system.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I agree that the valve should be all the way open when splitting but not so sure about your figures on the heat factor. For instance in the neutral valve position there is 100% return to the tank against no resistance and that is not much of a heating situation, however coming to the end of the stroke on an open centre system forces 100% flow through the relief valve, yet no work is done but that will quickly heat the system.

Remember activating the valve builds up pressure, if there is a tough log to split and piston barerly moves.....count on high pressure. Pressure comes from the resistans, not from the pump.
If valve is only half open, half the flow move piston and half goes to tank, you will have 50% of energy in heat losses to tank....if relief valve opens .....like you say, 100% heat losses to tank.....
Very important when operating is to pay attention on piston, if it stop moving on a split-stroke, the relief valve will open and that will heat system very fast......
there is heat losses even in neutral....hopefully small...only way to figure is to measure P before and after valve with full flow..... its allways a good idea to have a permanent pressure gauge mounted direct after pump. that can help trouble shooting, and also help how to operate properly. A gauge is only about 25$ with fittings......
there is allways losses as soon you start the pump, the higher flow the higher losses. Manufactured woodsplitters can show "nice" numbers in specs but manufacturer cut costs with under dimensioned valves, hoses, and tubes, which creates resistance. That happens every where, even on 100K$-500K$ heavy equipment.

Example. a pump with 8 cub cm (0.5 cui) displacement and 3000rpm will give 24 litre per min (6.3 GPM), If max pressure is 20 MPa (2900 PSI) the hydraulic power will be 8kW (10.7 HP). If half flow goes to piston, 12 l/m (3.15 GPM) the other half will go to tank, 4kW heat to tank....if pressure is only half, 10MPa (1450PSI) its still 2kW heat to tank.....
Note:
hp = Q x P / 1714
where:
hp is horsepower,
Q is flow in gpm,
P is pressure in psi

thePower in kW is pressure in MPa multiplied with flow in litre/sec
10kW equals 13.4 HP
10HP equals 7.45 kW

 

[Crofter]

Undersized components certainly contribute to heat. A closed center system would be much more efficient but the price of the pumps is much much higher too. A much larger shaft could be used on the cylinder to half the return time but things like that add quickly to the price and would make a basic system uncompetetive.

 

[Booshcat]

its not it just looks like it. its close but it really dosent make the tank hot i can keep my hand ontop of the tank while it runs.

If this is the case, I don't understand why you think the system is running too hot?

 

[kevin j]

My ideal design goal for hydr fluid is 90-120 F, acceptable is up to 140, and intermittent is 160F, (actually would be safe for the oil to 200 but not good) so I wonder if you truly are 'hot'.
if too cool, water and acids stay in the fluid. 120 F will seem warm/hot to human touch but be about perfect.

k

 

[cityevader]

"All" our hydraulic woodsplitters have a fixed deplacement pump and an open center directional opertion valve. When operating these kind off systems, its very important to pull operation valve lever to the very end, "full speed" or "on-off" operation. This is to make sure all hydraulic energy get transferred to WORK in the splitting ram (cylinder). What else happens is that directional valve will direct part of , lets say 75% of the pump flow to cylinder and 25% back to tank. That way 25% of the hydraulic energy will be transferred to heat. The oil that go back to tank that way, will quickly make system overheated. Check that you operate this proper way before adding a another tank. Also check your tank is big enough and filled properly, when piston is all the way in. Rule of thumb, 5 GPM pump = 5+ Gallon tank.

I have this problem as well...there is sort of a "detent feeling" at half-point when pulling the lever to extend ram. It'll start moving, but engine strains a bit until I pull the lever a bit harder, then it goes freely.

No big deal when by myself, but when I have the wife operate the controls, different story....she was born deaf and has no idea what the engine is doing. She simply sees the ram moving a little and that's that. Often have to signal here to push harder.
Might extend the lever's length to reduce effort.

 

[husky455rancher]

ive done a fair bit of modding since that pic, ive yet to run it for any length of time yet. im gonna add a filter and 1 more heat sink then ill post some pics. after i give her a good run ill take the temp of the tank woth the pyrometer. all the stuff i did should make a good difference.