how often to use a manual oiler

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rob jans

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:smile2::dunno: I bought a Mcculloch 1-42, and it only has manual oiling. I always had automatic oiling with a manual button for use while cutting larger trees. With manual oiling how often do you press the button to keep your chain and bar healthy.
 
I don't know that there is really a set standard and it will vary depending on the type of wood you are cutting, how sharp the chain is and how hard you are pushing the saw. It the bar starts smoking you should have oiled it a few seconds beforehand.......
 
Like Johnnie said, there are a number of variables, the type of wood, whether green or dry, the size of the wood, the length of your bar, how hard you are leaning on the saw, etc. You want enough to keep the bar lubricated and to prevent friction and the resultant heat buildup. Play with it for a while and you will get the hang of it.
 
I use manual oiler's all the time and normally do the following; one or two at the start, one or two in the middle, one or two near the end. Depends on how big the tree is also, every three or four inches of tree cut give a pump or two seems to work good for me. You should run out of oil about the same time your out of gas, but I always run out of oil first but just barely. Not a bad thing to use a little extra, the more you cut the better your thumb becomes.

Good luck
 
I will try your idea of pumping ever 3 to 4 inches,and seeing how it works out. At least this gives me an idea of what to do. And I will have to adjust to what the saw is cutting.:laugh:
 
Yeah don't want to waste oil, its pricey. But I'll have use more for now, and chalk it up for learning a new skill. I know the new saws are easier to use, but for me its fun using some of these older saws. :biggrin:
 
I haven't used a manual only oiler for awhile. IIRC, I'd pump it when starting the engine, and before a cut. Somewhere, in the middle of the cut, I'd give it a couple of pumps. The every couple of inches rule seems a good place to start. Oh, and don't forget to pump it after you finish the cut.

You'll do fine. More is better than not enough.
 
Listen close to your saw.
Give it a couple of squirts before you start cutting and listen to the engine when you first start the cut, and for the first 10 or so seconds.
After a few seconds usually 10-20 depending on LOTS of factors you will hear the engine start to pull down ever so slightly.
When you hear that, give it another shot, or 2 if necessary, to get that original sound back.
This is also good because it will teach you to LET THE SAW DO THE WORK!!!
Little is actually gained by "horsing" a saw in the wood.


Mike
 
you should syncronize the strokes on the pump plunger to same number of licks it takes to get to the center of a tootsie pop or when your thumb starts to cramp up, after a week of cuttin in the winter sign up for a thumb wrestling tourny ,prob will win jk
 
you should syncronize the strokes on the pump plunger to same number of licks it takes to get to the center of a tootsie pop or when your thumb starts to cramp up, after a week of cuttin in the winter sign up for a thumb wrestling tourny ,prob will win jk

I just got my first McCulloch saw (250) repaired and running. I did some research on oil viscosity and oil additives for cold weather. Using a teaspoon of Kerosene or minieral spirits will thin the oil so the plunger will give a good oil flow.

I found that my saw liked oil about every 7-10 seconds with chips flying. The cutting dawgs is a great balance point to use the plunger when readjusting attack angle of the bar. This was my first time using a manual oiling saw and took some extra thinking while handling the saw. Overall, it was fun to let the old saw RIP some chips!
 

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