How tight should the chain be?

[davebell18]

I just purchased a brand new husky 353. I asked the dealer how tight the chain should be and he said to have it lift 1/2 inch up and it should snap down back into the rail. Before I was told to have it a little loose so when it spins, the chain tightens more and there is less resistance on the motor. What is the correct way? Thanks

 

[spacemule]

No sag, no drag.

 

[BobL]

When Cold the bottom part of the tie straps should "just" make contact with the bar, To test all is OK the chain should be pulled upwards out of the groove it should return to making the same contact - if not - readjust.

Also the temperature difference between the bar and the chain affect the chain looseness - read this.

 

[MickJ]

Agree with bob, also, when you adjust it, then go to tighten the nuts lift the end of the bar up (the bar will have a little up and down play when the nuts are loose - you want it in the up position when tightening)
I always tighten the back nut first then the front - although put them both on all the way finger tight to ensure everything is lined up first.
Sometimes you'll find that when you tighten the nuts the chain may get a bit tighter - not sure why, some of my saws do some don't, just gotta allow for it, then pull the chain over a little by hand - being careful of fingers! to check its seated ok everywhere.
After doing all that the tension should be as bob describes - just touching the bar in the middle when cold.
May not be the perfect way of doing it but works for me - i'll now wait for the experts to chime in!

 

[mbopp]

And remember - a new chain will stretch, check it every so often and re-adjust it as needed.

 

[Clarkbug]

I thought that you would tighten as you described here for a hard nose bar, but for a sprocket nose you wanted to tighten it as much as you can while still being able to move the chain freely around the bar.

Essentially, hard nose = sag, sprocket nose = no sag.

 

[Meadow Beaver]

Not so tight that it is hard to spin with your hand, and it's too tight if the bottom of the tiestraps start wearing down.

 

[gallegosmike]

I just purchased a brand new husky 353. I asked the dealer how tight the chain should be and he said to have it lift 1/2 inch up and it should snap down back into the rail. Before I was told to have it a little loose so when it spins, the chain tightens more and there is less resistance on the motor. What is the correct way? Thanks

Here is how I go about adjusting the tightness of my chains. Loosen up your bar nuts. Back out the chain adjuster till the chain is about 1/4 in loose. Next with a glove on, grab the nose of bar and pull up. I adjust my chains to move free around bar,but not to be loose. With a sprocket nose bar, I leave about half of the scrench tools tip's clearance on the botton of guide bar. With a hard nose bar, I go about a full scrench bar tip's clearance. Tighten back up and check to see if to tight or binding by moving chain around bar clock wise.
Your chain will stretch during break in process. So keep a eye and adjust as needed. Becareful and good luck!

 

[Meadow Beaver]

TMI, just to where it feels right.

 

[Raymond]

Think of it as your wife's midsection goodies.
You want it to snap back in place but not to damn tight.

 

[Meadow Beaver]

, that's a good way to look at it.

 

[Octane]

I just purchased a brand new husky 353. I asked the dealer how tight the chain should be and he said to have it lift 1/2 inch up and it should snap down back into the rail. Before I was told to have it a little loose so when it spins, the chain tightens more and there is less resistance on the motor. What is the correct way? Thanks

Id say your dealer's suggestion is a little on the loose side, but its pretty close. I prefer 1/4" of sag.
The looser you run the chain, the less drag there will be on the motor and the less the bar will wear.

 

[Meadow Beaver]

I try not to let it sag too much. As long as the DLs' aren't hanging outside of the rails.

 

[Nitroman]

Yup, as was said by the Aussies, tip the bar UP before tightening, and by the two previous posters, a little sag doesn't hurt. I shoot for a cold chain to just touch the bar on the bottom (32"), and about 3/32" on my 36" bar. When up to opertating temperature I have maybe 3/16" sag on both. That isn't much, but with the oiler going nice, you let off the throttle and watch that chain slowly spool down. Less resistance is kewl.

I do this because I am cutting almost always in the cold.

and

 

[Meadow Beaver]

Yeap you gotta hold the tip of the bar, especially with long bars.

 

[davebell18]

I have a 20" bar on it. So if i hear you guys right, i hold the bar by the tip and have the motor part of the saw towards the ground? As i hold the bar set it down and tighten the 2 bolts then? Thanks again guys!

 

[Raymond]

You could also break it over, using the bar and chain like a kick stand, putting a little pressure on it will do the same. Then tighten it up.

 

[davebell18]

break it over? im not understanding quite what you mean.

 

[Raymond]

break it over? im not understanding quite what you mean.

Tipping it toward the bar. Do them both and you'll see.

 

[BobL]

I have a 20" bar on it. So if i hear you guys right, i hold the bar by the tip and have the motor part of the saw towards the ground? As i hold the bar set it down and tighten the 2 bolts then? Thanks again guys!

If you are talking about holding the saw vertical then not so.

- Place the saw down on a table or bench pointing slightly away from you
- Loosen the bar nuts enough so you can tighten the chain
- Put your left elbow on the wrap handle and grab the bar with left hand on the. Pushing slightly down with your left elbow pull the bar upwards (Chain --should go a little looser at this point).
- Still holding onto the bar, redjust the chain back up
- Still holding onto the bar, tighten the bar nuts