How To Remove Aluminum Transfer Without Acid

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sld961

sld961

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Bump for a great thread. I was looking for it in the stickies and couldn't find it. I couldn't remember the exact name of the title, so it took me a while to find it on Google.

Randy, you say that if you had to pick two grits, they'd be 180 and 320. I'm working on purchasing a Foredom and the accessories needed. Is there a single "do-it-all" grit that would get someone through this process successfully? Or is it definitely at least a 2-grit process?
 
nmurph

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I do it slightly differently than Randy- I use sand paper on madrels, but I also use Cratex wheels for the initial work. It takes transfer off quickly, especially if it's a few long streaks, and I can "spot" clean an area and then switch to the mandrel for the finish work.
 
MGoBlue

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I recently tried this method on a 394 cylinder. I had some reservations about blowing right through the plating. A few PM's to the Master and all my transfer is gone. Really appreciate info like this being shared. Now I need to find the how-to for beveling ports...

Thanks Randy. :bowdown:
 
sld961

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A nail...look around, there are innumerable items that can be used. I have one of the new-fangled Husqvarna small screnches that I use in addition to nails, tubing, etc...
That's what I was thinking. I used some shaft that I had laying around, it was too thick, so I had to thin out one end with a grinder to fit into my hand piece. I must have gotten it oblong, cause it's got a pretty good wobble. It worked, but I need to make a nicer one. I'll have to go to the hardware store and look around. None of my nails are long enough.
 
Marshy

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Here is a cylinder I thought was gonna clean up beautifully. Was going great until I noticed the scratches. :buttkick:

Sucks. . I have one more 036 cylinder that I am hoping is good.


View attachment 340232 View attachment 340233

Looks like a good cylinder to practice on, both porting and transfer removal.


That's what I was thinking. I used some shaft that I had laying around, it was too thick, so I had to thin out one end with a grinder to fit into my hand piece. I must have gotten it oblong, cause it's got a pretty good wobble. It worked, but I need to make a nicer one. I'll have to go to the hardware store and look around. None of my nails are long enough.

If you have a dremmel then you can zip the head off a large pole spike then cut a slit in the end then pinch it together a little with pliars. Thats what I did but with a ~6" long 1/4" hard steel round stock. Works great to remove transfer and also smooth out the port runners because it is about the same radius as the corner in runner already.
 
Philbert

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Randy, what do you use for your split mandrel?

I'll have to go to the hardware store and look around. None of my nails are long enough.

Look on eBay. I bought several split mandrels that fit Dremel style tools for a buck a piece or so, including shipping. Lots of sizes and types.

Philbert
 
Marshy

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Look on eBay. I bought several split mandrels that fit Dremel style tools for a buck a piece or so, including shipping. Lots of sizes and types.

Philbert

Problem with the dremmel is you dont have the reach to get into the cylinder that far unless you are using the long flex attachment. Even then its a bit bulky to be sticking the whole thing in there. The rest of the space that you would use to see your work becomes blocked by your hand.
 
Philbert

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Problem with the dremmel is you dont have the reach to get into the cylinder that far unless you are using the long flex attachment. Even then its a bit bulky to be sticking the whole thing in there. The rest of the space that you would use to see your work becomes blocked by your hand.

Point was that there are many sizes and styles of pre-made, split mandrels available for low cost on eBay (EDIT: and other places) if he did not want to make his own. If you don't like using Dremel/Foredom type tools, there are styles that fit other rotary tools.

Philbert
 

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