Good point! I was just pointing out the limitations of actually using the dremel. I also found that I had to use a fair amount of pressure and dont thing an dremel arbor would take that kind of force very long because they are small diameter rod...
How To Remove Aluminum Transfer Without Acid
- Thread starter Mastermind
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Good point! I was just pointing out the limitations of actually using the dremel. I also found that I had to use a fair amount of pressure and dont thing an dremel arbor would take that kind of force very long because they are small diameter rod...
I used an exacto knife.
If I were going to use it often, I would grind the tip to distribute pressure more evenly.
If I were going to use it often, I would grind the tip to distribute pressure more evenly.
DexterDay
Addicted to ArboristSite
I want to put it on a runner for a buddy.
I have tinkered with porting, but my fear comes in the bevel of the port. What to use and how much bevel.
Any hints, tips, tricks..
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
A diamond ball....
Crow99
ArboristSite Lurker
Would something like the diamond chamfer points from Foredom work?
http://www.foredom.net/apd72.aspx
http://www.foredom.net/apd72.aspx
Can you show us a picture and best place to buy one?
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I'll have to take one tomorrow. I'm not in the shop.
I just use 1/8 shank diamond burrs in a 1/4" ball shape. I find them on ebay.
I just use 1/8 shank diamond burrs in a 1/4" ball shape. I find them on ebay.
JC360
ArboristSite Operative
Great idea..., and chucked it up in what, tho?
As for using a Dremel, the flex shaft is certainly the way to go. There are any number of options for a long split mandrel solution to either buy or make yourself. Turn a long spike to fit the chuck, split it with a hack saw, don't look back (or hurt yourself, now hear me?).
Don't disregard a Dremel as a perfectly viable option if you have one. Works just fine.
My corded Dewalt drill.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I once ported a toaster you know.
Bump
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Randy, I have tossed jugs like this in the trash because I thought they were unusable. Can you please explain why this is a OK jug to re-run ? I am sure you are correct, but I would like to know how to seperate the good from the bad. Thanks
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
As long as the transfer is gone, and the plating is not worn thru......the jug is serviceable.
DexterDay
Addicted to ArboristSite
It was explained to me by Randy and a few others, that as long as the lines are linear, that they will eventually fill with carbon and seal themselves.
The saw that had this jug, has been in service ever since, and one of the strongest stock 034's (036 conversion) I have seen.
The saw that had this jug, has been in service ever since, and one of the strongest stock 034's (036 conversion) I have seen.
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
Randy,
Probably a dumb question, but if you're only cleaning the aluminium out and not really affecting the plating, does the process change in ID of the cylinder enough to need larger ring(s), or can you sill run stock ring(s)?
I might have access to an old Lawn Boy engine would be slightly larger ad easier for a noob like myself to try on, plus it's free so there's that. LOL
Fine work as always!
Probably a dumb question, but if you're only cleaning the aluminium out and not really affecting the plating, does the process change in ID of the cylinder enough to need larger ring(s), or can you sill run stock ring(s)?
I might have access to an old Lawn Boy engine would be slightly larger ad easier for a noob like myself to try on, plus it's free so there's that. LOL
Fine work as always!
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Just standard rings are needed.
There aren't oversized rings and pistons for plated jugs. There is a slight difference between an "A" and a "B" jug though....
There aren't oversized rings and pistons for plated jugs. There is a slight difference between an "A" and a "B" jug though....
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I tried Randy's method today on a ms250 cylinder that had transfer on both the intake and exhaust side of the cyl. The only thing I used was a dremel and sanding flapper wheel at 80 grit. It did very well on the lower section of the cylinder but was cumbersome and blocked my vision on the top half. You definitely need the additional reach and visibility of a flex shaft on the dremel or a foredom style grinder. I found a reasonable deal on the bay today for a used one without the foot pedal. My compliments and thanks to all involved in sharing this info. It was very helpful.
