How to sharpen Maul and ax with files

[SPDRMNKY]

if I have to take off a lot of metal to correct/minimize damage, I'll make light passes with a course disc on an angle grinder...just get in a rhythm. I actually use an 18V cordless angle grinder...sometimes frustrating, but I find it's much harder to get in a hurry and detemper an edge with it.

then/otherwise I use a bastard (flat) file sized for the tool. grip with both hands and push along the edge, with my left hand leading the right (vice versa for south paws)...leaves a smoother surface, and much easier to see if your angle is correct

lastly, I debur the edge with a piece of emory cloth (found in the plumbing section). I'll also soften the edge on soft-metal tools (mauls)...the edges do last longer that way.

and then, only on my fiskars splitting axes, I'll make several rapid passes with their sharpener (held upside down)...even pressure.

all this done in good light, with the head of the tool clamped in a vise, edge up. I stand roughly 45 off of looking straight down the edge. just pivot the vise as needed. I find it comfortable to have the vise at chest height.

 

[CTYank]

These are my chopping n splitting implements. Each has it's purpose and in some cases multiple purposes. N for CTYank, yep, there stands my beloved FISKARS of which you so despise!

Each have been recently sharpened with the method I described as my preference. If you want real closeups of the axe or hatchet heads, just ask.

View attachment 274160 View attachment 274161

Nope, don't despise them. Rather, laugh at the lousy metallurgy, and those susceptible to mass-marketing. And try to suggest greatly superior alternatives. Of which, there are many.

Std 'murican purchasing behavior- buy cheap, then buy often. What's love got to do with it?

Sharpening a maul? Are you serious? :msp_smile:

 

[woodchuck357]

Sharpen knives, axes and hatchets

I sharpen axes, mauls and hatchets with a bastard file, and then finish with a stone... Grinding the cutting edge on any cutting tool will ruin it's ability to "hold" the edge.

to a fine edge, not wedges, mauls and froes. They aren't cutting tools, they are dividing tools. They are made of softer steel and can be ground with much less care.

Axes and knives are cutting tools that can be used be used for dividing (splitting). You could shave with most of my cutting tools. My mauls and wedges are "dull as a froe".

 

[Marc]

I sharpen my Sager ax with a Lansky puck dual grit oil stone. Small circular motion like waxing a car. Square and round point shovels get this and the maul occasionally. The coarse grit will take any bad nicks out of the maul edge. I never feel the need to sharpen splitting wedges.

 

[Iska3]

+1

Yep! Lot of good and not so good info so far. For my splitting axe I use a file to even out the face/edge. I think the OP is talking about re-shap'n his mauls and axe to take out the nicks. I'd use a file on the edges and call it good for splitting I doesn't need to be sharp like a knife. It's true the factory has to grind down the material to put on an edge but they use wet grinders to keep the material cool.

I sharpen axes, mauls and hatchets with a bastard file, and then finish with a stone... grinders are used only for re-shaping, then the file and stone finish. A maul is a large hunk of steel and would take a lot of grinding before challenging the temper... except close to the cutting edge. Grinding the cutting edge on any cutting tool will ruin it's ability to "hold" the edge.

 

[Chris-PA]

Mauls are nasty rude things so I sharpen/shape mine with a grinder. For my axes I use mill and smooth bastard files.

 

[Marc]

Oh yeah, I use the oil stone on my scythes as well. I knew there was something I was leaving out. Yes, I own an FS90, but sometimes I prefer a scythe.

Lawnmower blades go on the bench grinder.

 

[Marc]

+1

Yep! Lot of good and not so good info so far. For my splitting axe I use a file to even out the face/edge. I think the OP is talking about re-shap'n his mauls and axe to take out the nicks. I'd use a file on the edges and call it good for splitting I doesn't need to be sharp like a knife. It's true the factory has to grind down the material to put on an edge but they use wet grinders to keep the material cool.

I agree. I feel like the word "temper" is used a lot by some people without really knowing what it means.

 

[vincem77]

I agree. I feel like the word "temper" is used a lot by some people without really knowing what it means.

Thats when the axe gets real angry right?

 

[tld400]

My first splitting device was a 40 dolar collins maul from hardwear store. Tryed using it and what a piece of crap. So I figured heck with spliting by hand and bought a 7 ton electric splitter. It works great but I read for months about the fiskars so I decided since I need some exercise I bought the x27. Since I bought it I havent taken the spliter out of the shed. I like using the x27 and it cost the same as that other piece of junk. you would be better using a hatchet than that maul I bought.

 

[Chris-PA]

My first splitting device was a 40 dolar collins maul from hardwear store. Tryed using it and what a piece of crap. So I figured heck with spliting by hand and bought a 7 ton electric splitter. It works great but I read for months about the fiskars so I decided since I need some exercise I bought the x27. Since I bought it I havent taken the spliter out of the shed. I like using the x27 and it cost the same as that other piece of junk. you would be better using a hatchet than that maul I bought.

I have an 8lb Collins maul with a wooden handle. I had to reshape the front edge a little, but it works well for a maul. I would have preferred a 6lb but my wife picked it out . I figure she was trying to wear me out so I wouldn't be a pest. I swing it fast like an axe, and it really take the energy out of me, but it does work.

 

[CTYank]

I have an 8lb Collins maul with a wooden handle. I had to reshape the front edge a little, but it works well for a maul. I would have preferred a 6lb but my wife picked it out . I figure she was trying to wear me out so I wouldn't be a pest. I swing it fast like an axe, and it really take the energy out of me, but it does work.

Among others, I've a Bradlees special 8 lb maul. Was an instrument of torture- way too obtuse at the edge, and really "chubby" cheeks near the edge. Very difficult to split anything with it.

After using Austrian maul, I took a disc grinder to the 8 lb (and 2-5 lb mauls) to emulate the head shape of the Austrian Mueller. Took a while to slim down the cheeks, not long to give them an edge. Made them MUCH more effective than before. Still the 8 lb is noticeably less productive than the 5 lb ones. The 8 lb is now effectively a sledge with a pointy end. Sweet spot is around 5 lb.

The lighter ones don't de-energize you at all like the 8lb. If you're really bringing it. You might want to consider some cellulite reduction on the maul face; I'd do it in a heartbeat.

 

[tld400]

I have an 8lb Collins maul with a wooden handle. I had to reshape the front edge a little, but it works well for a maul. I would have preferred a 6lb but my wife picked it out . I figure she was trying to wear me out so I wouldn't be a pest. I swing it fast like an axe, and it really take the energy out of me, but it does work.

The one I have is a 6lb with fiberglass handle. id a little reshape too but its not in the same league as the fiskars or even a axe with a small curved handle. It just bounces of thewood. I think it wood need alot of metal shaved off of it to make it better.

 

[c5rulz]

Angle grinder with coarse sandpaper will make axes scary sharp and not heat up the head.:jester:

 

[faststihl]

My vote goes with the flap disk on a 4" grinder. I put the axe to be sharpened in a vice so the head is held horizontal, and use slow light strokes to polish up the edge. Turn over and repeat. Keep the temps low by not rushing or heavy cuts.

I am always VERY careful with the direction of the flap rotation, and not snagging it on the axe anywhere and it flying out of my hand.....