How to Shine a Bar
- Thread starter oologahan
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The ,"process", would be have it chrome plated. Shiny steel would require it to be polished with ever finer grit until there were few if any sanding scratches left, a very time consuming process for a chainsaw bar.
Try hitting it with some 0000 steel wool.
oologahan
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks, I didn't want it chrome shiny, but clean steel looking, what time of machine would be best DA orbital sander or belt sander or both
Dennisthemenace
ArboristSite Operative
A belt sander works pretty good
oologahan
ArboristSite Operative
oologahan
ArboristSite Operative
I used a DA orbital sander with 220, then 320, using mothers aluminum and magnesium polish, made a good difference I can live with it. I'll post pictures
Some componds could be applied with a side grinder and a cotton wheel .
oologahan
ArboristSite Operative
If that's the original finish on the bar -- the lengthwise grain pattern -- then it was probably done with a belt on something like this:
https://timesaversinc.com/products/31-series
A belt sander with coarse belt (80 grit?) would come close. Careful not to rock the sander and taper the edges of the bar.
If you can find a sympathetic fabricator that makes stainless kitchen equipment, architectural details, or other ornamental work they may be willing to run the bar thru a Timesaver or stroke sander (sort of a manual Timesaver) for a box of donuts for the crew.
Harbor Freight sells a surface preparation tool that uses a Scotch Brite type drum that put a near perfect brushed finish on chainsaw bars. I have done 25+ bars so far with the first 40 grit drum that came with the unit. I am very pleased with how well it works and how little material it actually takes off. Only one bar so far had any noticeable deterioration of the etching and I'm not even sure it was etching, it may have simply been screen printed.
I wipe them down with some WD40 or other light oil when I am done.
Mark
I wipe them down with some WD40 or other light oil when I am done.
Mark
I have also done many with the DA sander and while you can produce a very bright finish, it is a time consuming process and requires multiple sanding discs. I have a few that started with 80 grit and worked down to 220 or even 320 that were almost mirror like. Since many of my saws are in a display and the building is temperature and humidity controlled, there is no discernible rust.
I would try to post some photos but they cannot really capture the look and effect.
Mark
I would try to post some photos but they cannot really capture the look and effect.
Mark
Very nice Mark!
I really like that finish.
I really like that finish.
oologahan
ArboristSite Operative
Awesome, thank you!!!!
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
I have used a fine grit drum sander, and it does a wonderful job. I don't know if I ever took a picture, I'll have a look.
They (HF) have a big sale on today. Don’t know if the 25% code is still active, but the 20% is.
As noted, photos don't really show these well. The first one was done with the DA sander down to 220 grit and has a nice, smooth polished finish. That was probably 10 years ago and I haven't done anything further to protect the surface other than an occasional (2-3 years??) wipe.
This one was done with the HF surface prep tool. You can't really see the brushed finish but it is there.
The HF tool is very fast at removing old paint, rust, etc. yet does not harm any well defined etching. This bar was an Oregon and did not have the logo like the McCulloch branded bars do.
Mark
This one was done with the HF surface prep tool. You can't really see the brushed finish but it is there.
The HF tool is very fast at removing old paint, rust, etc. yet does not harm any well defined etching. This bar was an Oregon and did not have the logo like the McCulloch branded bars do.
Mark
