How "unsafe" is Oregon 34LG chain, today?

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

When I worked in the industry in the '80s, we really only talked about there being 3 kinds of chain.

• Standard chain, i.e. no ramps or guard links
• Low-kickback chain, with one or more of the above.
• Safety chain, e.g 91SG. (aka, anti-cut chain )

Therefore, Oregon 34LG was considered to be relatively "low kickback" due to it's ramped depth gauges.

So here's the thing. I've still got brand new 64 drive link loops of 34LG that I've had since 1988. I use them on my Husqvarna saws. One which currently has a standard-profile Oregon replaceable tip bar. The other, a Norwegian-made "Husqvarna" narrow-profile laminated bar.

Now, when I casually mentioned to a supplier that I was going to throw a 15" bar and 34LG chain on my USD50 Chinese made Homelite Zenoah copy, just to see how it ran with it, his reply was,
"Don't you think that's dangerous? You should stick to a low-kickback chain like 21BPX on a saw that doesn't have an inertia brake."
And sure enough, my research tells me that these days, 34LG is not considered to be as safe as it used to be.

Any comments welcome....

 

[cus_deluxe]

that chinese copy doesnt have a chain break? generally, the most dangerous part of a chainsaw is the operator. thats why dealers say things like that.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Its not safe for inexperienced operators like the majority of new saw users are these days. Anyone that has run saws from the time saws had no chainbrakes could run your saw and chain safely but from the majority of new to saw users today they do not know enough to handle a saw with a chainbrake. Soon saws will need a big computer to run themselves, the operator will just be holding the saw in position.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

that chinese copy doesnt have a chain break? generally, the most dangerous part of a chainsaw is the operator. thats why dealers say things like that.

The Zenoah copy has a manually-triggered brake. The Huskys have inertia-triggered brakes.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

Its not safe for inexperienced operators like the majority of new saw users are these days. Anyone that has run saws from the time saws had no chainbrakes could run your saw and chain safely but from the majority of new to saw users today they do not know enough to handle a saw with a chainbrake. Soon saws will need a big computer to run themselves, the operator will just be holding the saw in position.

I have a foot in both camps. In over 35 years, I've tested and repaired saws with a manual brake but never seriously used a saw without an inertia brake so I'm kinda used to the brake covering for my inattention - and my reflexes probably aren't as good as they once were. There's something incredibly reassuring about being able to roll a full-revving saw over so it's clutch-side down, then jam the top of the blade tip into a tree and watch as the brake stops the chain within 10 degrees of kickback reaction.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I don`t run light saws often but when I do they seem skittery getting the chain started but once in the cut they don`t have enough power to be afraid of, their kickback is like a mosquito, the big saws are another category. There is definitely a use for chainbrakes as the speed /saw RPM and chain speed have increased dramatically combined with the saws becoming lighter weight wise they can and will kickback violently if not handled properly. The only time one of my saws sets a chainbrake is if a limb,brush or other stem catches it. Possibly beginning running big saws over 100 cc that were heavy and slower revving with bigger coarse chain saved me from any incidents but taught me to be more careful, access each cut before applying the chain to the cut /wood and knowing enough how to read the bind may play a big part in not jamming the chain in a cut thus setting off the brake.

 

[Franny K]

The 34LG chain like the SL chains in 33,34,35 (34 being in 0.058) was trademarked low profile. I guess the cutting edge is closer to the sliding surface than LPX,BPX. The SL had a bumper tie strap, the newer lower kick back chains seem to have bumper drive links now. It can be a chore getting the file to fit as the depth gauge and cutting surface are very close. It seems less dangerous, ,the LG version, than the longer cutters and far forward depth gauge of the current non reduced kick back chain. Sort of similar to 91vx vs the 91vxl.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Still running some loops of 33LG myself.
But had went to RS mainly. Then I tried LPX, I'm liking LPX better. Fast as RS but smoother in the cuts.

 

[Huskybill]

The chain brake saved me once in my 2101 Husqvarna. The only time most of my other saws have brakes.

Back in the 80’s I ran nothing but 72LP 3/8” 050 ga and 33LG .325” 050ga chisel back in the day.

We only had a few choices either chisel or chipper chain teeth.

 

[Streblerm]

Any chain is capable of kickback and IMO relying on safety equipment to make up for dangerous technique is an accident waiting to happen. I say use your head, use good technique, and use the chain you have.

 

[Huskybill]

We just need to block out everything in our minds that’s going on in our lives and pay attention to what we’re doing with the saw. How the tension is wound up on branches and when buckin. A plastic wedge can be your friend when buckin. Keep in mind this is a dangerous job, again it requires our full attention. Be safe do it right.
Think is what I’m about to do safe?

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

Thanks everyone for your responses. It's good to be reminded to concentrate always and never to take safety for granted.

 

[Skeans]

I don`t run light saws often but when I do they seem skittery getting the chain started but once in the cut they don`t have enough power to be afraid of, their kickback is like a mosquito, the big saws are another category. There is definitely a use for chainbrakes as the speed /saw RPM and chain speed have increased dramatically combined with the saws becoming lighter weight wise they can and will kickback violently if not handled properly. The only time one of my saws sets a chainbrake is if a limb,brush or other stem catches it. Possibly beginning running big saws over 100 cc that were heavy and slower revving with bigger coarse chain saved me from any incidents but taught me to be more careful, access each cut before applying the chain to the cut /wood and knowing enough how to read the bind may play a big part in not jamming the chain in a cut thus setting off the brake.

I can think of a few good places to get rid of the brakes boring block faces or windows out is a great place they belong in the garbage. I was taught like you’re describing when cutting it’s very seldom I’ll set a brake unless boring a block out.


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[Huskybill]

I’ll be honest in the beginning I got my first chain saw chain cut from 32LG when I was sharpening the chain. I pushed the chain backwards from the regular rotation she grabbed my hand was on a razor sharpened tooth I just did and sliced me open.

Rules to sharpening.

Never push the chain with your hand, always push the chain in the direction it rotates when it’s running. I use the file horizontally to push the chain around.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I can think of a few good places to get rid of the brakes boring block faces or windows out is a great place they belong in the garbage. I was taught like you’re describing when cutting it’s very seldom I’ll set a brake unless boring a block out.


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For the first few years Pioneer saws started coming out with chainbrakes we all took them off right away and ran the saws without. They were cumbersome to our cutting styles and I did not run a saw with a working brake until we started running Sachs Dolmar 116 and 129 Supers around 85 - 86. I left mine on the 120 I was running, my dad took the brake off his 116 but eventually I talked him into putting it back on a couple years later. Since those days we have left them but don`t depend on them for safety.

 

[Huskybill]

I can think of a few good places to get rid of the brakes boring block faces or windows out is a great place they belong in the garbage. I was taught like you’re describing when cutting it’s very seldom I’ll set a brake unless boring a block out.


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I set the brak when the saw is idling as I make my way to cut the branches on a fallen tree. Once I’m in position to stand solid to cut its off. I don’t like the thoughts of falling with the saw running. I don’t trust the trigger interlock too.

 

[Skeans]

I set the brak when the saw is idling as I make my way to cut the branches on a fallen tree. Once I’m in position to stand solid to cut its off. I don’t like the thoughts of falling with the saw running. I don’t trust the trigger interlock too.

That’d be a lot of on and off walking down a log, I was always taught never trust a chain brake period the only one to trust is a dead saw. Now hiking out with a non running saw I’ll leave the chain brake off throw the saw on my shoulder allowing the chain to slide just in case. Getting off and on a log to buck I’ll leave the saw running dig the dawgs into the far side to use the trigger handle as a post most of this is on steep ground with not many places to stand or go.


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[Huskybill]

Things can be a mess when felling multiple trees on top of each other. Then I get the truck in there and don’t have to move it.

Talk about on the job hazards. I took a task where the first logger left. I found out later why, there’s no paranormal section here. I found hung up trees that looked like they were growing out of ledges. The base of the trunks were buried by dead leaves. I didn’t notice the hang up till I knotched and dropped them. I did finish the job.

I never left any unsafe hang ups. I always cut them down.