very classy! I liked your point but yes tact.
The harshness takes away from what would have otherwise been a realy good post. IMO
"not qualified to cut his own carrots" is priceless.
LMAO
How would you have dropped it?
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very classy! I liked your point but yes tact.
The harshness takes away from what would have otherwise been a realy good post. IMO
"not qualified to cut his own carrots" is priceless.
LMAO
As long as he only had a concussion and you guys were able to have a coherent convo..erm I mean as normal as it gets, doing some livingroom cutting while having some beer then its all good in the hood.
here we go...get the $hit going
seriously thats bad! Falling zones are to be respected.
I happened to have two friends (fallers)that hit and killed workers with trees. In one case it was the guy coming into his falling zone and they didn't even know until they went back looking for him. He was posturing with deep breathing.
(brain dead) The other was a Certified Utility Arborist (CUA)
and his helper was turfing the tree off the line but the CUA used a short rope but the helper was talking (fighting) on the phone with his GF and went the wrong way. They didn't fault the CUA but 4 years latter when we worked together,he always used a long rope.
For us its two tree lengths or 60 metres, which ever is greater. approach from the high side and wait or yell from 60 metres or two tree lengths and ask "is it safe? Is anything is cut up"? signage, barricades or "active falling zone" ribbon.
not reading what anyone would do. (at this point)
This is what im thinking, it sounds like two trees,most likely.
Another theory is posible but less likely, So it was a fuse.
Did I answer the question? I think I'm in the wrong forum
In cases and with species like cedar they will hold and you have two options (on a hillside)To seperate and bore, one, one way and one the other or fall as one.
Not the case here, Obviously the heavier front won't pull the back snipe if judged wrong,causing a pinch or possibly loss of control as its two trees and the back one wouldn't have an undercut. If I was able to wedge the back one from the side I'd drop the front one, other posible options?
high cut, high wedge? but your stronger fibers are at the bottom? notch in for a bottle jack or stand in the fork maybe climb another 5 ft and tie. pull it over as you did at that point.
I find it hard to use a wedge in a stem much under 16", not enough room for the bar or not enough left for a hinge. Sometimes wonder why they don't make short wedges with a sharper angle for this purpose. Pretty happy with what we did here, chain kept whole thing immobile. Worst case the butt could have kicked back and pinched the bar. Could have cut it as 2 stems but one of them was going over the fence and then we would had to drag everything out to the road and around and clean up the debris field
no concussion, 6" diameter where I was cutting and what got him was 1" and under. Still not good and probably paying as much attn as we should have been
Back to your question.
your quote: "Was I realy stupid and was there a better way to do it'
yes and yes again!
ok, like the boys said as did I.
Get the first one out of the way. Its a 7 second job.
cut above the fork or bore..both good.
Why it was stupid was because you just cut straight through the back stem without any undercut. Where is your control?
Would you do that normally? Then why were you doing it then?
The only positive was you left a back step and stood on the "high side". bad practice! bad! bad!bad!
And also straping that would be a lot different than
one may do for a barber chair. It would require two,in this case at the farthest spread or again, no control.
why would the second one have to go over the fence???
It makes no sense to me.
-Cut the first one
-a little tention on your rope
-three precise cuts
-pull the second fuçer over.
steep wedges are $hit
run 10" & 12 K&H wedges.
Its the sleek ones that lift the wood and stick.
They go in sideways on small diameter against the lean.
make sure you have holding wood or you will just pop it off.
they always get you out of a pinch If you didn't set a wedge.
practice small dia against the lean doing back cut first with wedges suggested.
your quote: "Was I realy stupid and was there a better way to do it'
yes and yes again!
ok, like the boys said as did I.
Get the first one out of the way. Its a 7 second job.
cut above the fork or bore..both good.
Why it was stupid was because you just cut straight through the back stem without any undercut. Where is your control?
Would you do that normally? Then why were you doing it then?
The only positive was you left a back step and stood on the "high side". bad practice! bad! bad!bad!
And also straping that would be a lot different than
one may do for a barber chair. It would require two,in this case at the farthest spread or again, no control.
why would the second one have to go over the fence???
It makes no sense to me.
-Cut the first one
-a little tention on your rope
-three precise cuts
-pull the second fuçer over.
steep wedges are $hit
run 10" & 12 K&H wedges.
Its the sleek ones that lift the wood and stick.
They go in sideways on small diameter against the lean.
make sure you have holding wood or you will just pop it off.
they always get you out of a pinch If you didn't set a wedge.
practice small dia against the lean doing back cut first with wedges suggested.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Backcut first then wedge in then face. Pretty simple. All I run is 10s & 12s for wedges. You can wedge a 10" tree with a 10" wedge.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
only wedges i have are 10" TT K&H, do all wedge.
^^^^^There ya go!
The boys will tell ya right.
The boys will tell ya right.
Well, this is the tree in question. Might have got lucky. Last pic is a tree on down the line, told my buddy we WILL NOT be falling that one in one step,much bigger tree. Thinking we will tell the neighbor the other half is falling in his side!
