How's my piston and cylinder look?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jimhoff

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2010
Messages
67
Reaction score
8
Location
Alaska
MS210. I didn't know if it was worth fixing but I figured I'd take it apart. The issue was it would idle poorly. Stall if put on the side and stall if given any gas. Piston and cylinder look good, but used, to me. I guess I should look for some seals, carb kit, crankcase sealant etc.
d889f4b6-d83e-d2b2.jpg

d889f4b6-d858-d6bf.jpg

d889f4b6-d86f-be96.jpg
d889f4b6-d886-01bf.jpg


This saw was packed with spooge and I have a lot of cleaning still to do.

Thanks.
 
I'd at least thro' seals in it (based on running symptoms)

If everything else seems useable, the P&C don't look bad IMO (maybe some 0000 steel wool & thorough cleaning)

My partner F55 had some scoring & alum transfer over the rings - I cleaned it up & thru' it back together (needed it to run)

I worked it for several hrs and it's running great, I've got a new P&C sitting on the shelf for it now.


luck,greg
 
One of the bearings feels perfectly smooth and spins a time or 2 after letting go. The other feels just a hint of roughness, and spins only a quarter turn after letting go. No play. Will they be ok? (off to beg for manuals)
 
One of the bearings feels perfectly smooth and spins a time or 2 after letting go. The other feels just a hint of roughness, and spins only a quarter turn after letting go. No play. Will they be ok? (off to beg for manuals)

The one that feels a little rough likely has some garbage in it. Flush it out with some clean solvent of your choice (pre-mix, brake clean, etc.) and use some mix oil to re-lubricate.
 
2 cents

It looks pretty good, but the carbon deposits below the rings on the first picture make me wonder a bit about their condition. I would slap some new rings on the piston while your that deep. Do what you can for a light resurface on the cylinder. A new seal below the cylinder would also be reasonable.

While your doing a rebuild on the carb, i would also replace the impulse, fuel hose and filter, and the manifold, as they are all the rubbers around the carb. You can probably find all those for a reasonable cost as well as know that the carb is sealed up with no leaks.

Is your wire harness and spark plug wire free of and wear marks that go all the way to the bare wire or close? Does your Fly wheel show any signs of wear from an improperly aligned ignition module?

Good luck, looks fun!
 
I could be wrong (I was once before) but it looks like someone has had that saw apart before. I believe they came from the factory with gray sealer and that orange stuff is like the Dirko I use.
The only reason I mention this is you may not know what this thing's been thru prior to you owning it. Just my 2 cents.
Disclaimer: I could be totally wrong.
 
Piston and cylinder look great to me.... from what I can see.

+1 for me here. If the bearing in question is iffy they can be purchased any most local bearing supply companies. They are usually around $8-10 (unless Obama inflation has raised the price in the last 5 months). I'd replace the bearing as a cheap insurance that you don't have to brake it down after reassembly. I'd spring for the seals, and replace the fuel and impulse lines as well upon the reassembly. For good measure go through the carb and clean, check and rebuild as necessary.
 
Thanks, all. I don't have any history on this saw--it looks pretty beat, judging from the externals. I just wanted to rebuild something and there it was. It's going to be a winter project and I'll make a parts order off the site somewhere.
 
Back
Top