hows my plug look

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Never was a fan of tuning a chainsaw by plug color. Much safer and easier to tune by ear.

I agree with brad. The small two strokes SHOULD be tuned by ear.. or tach..but I dont like the plug tuning on saws or weed eaters.
Now on my sleds, that no problem. They are bigger and i can read the piston wash easily too! Just my .02 :)
 
It's acutally a 326ls trimmer but i have a muffler moded ryobi 10532 the plug looks the same. I am good with a little rich vs a little lean as I work the snot out the gear when it gets used. plugs are cheap compared to equipment.
 
Keep it as is. Looks fine to me and a little on the rich side is better than a little on the lean side. I agree with Brad. Tuning by ear is best:msp_thumbup:
 
What are you running fer mix?

32:1 ? 50:1? 40:1?
 
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ok,,, on a serious note,, I personally per mine a little rich which that plug shows,, I agree with brad,,, I never tune by color,,always by ear,, a lot safer that way
 
Never was a fan of tuning a chainsaw by plug color. Much safer and easier to tune by ear.


Yep, unless you warm the saw, install a new plug, cut the saw in the middle of a cut, and read the plug at the base of the insulator, you are not getting an accurate read. All the OP has done is show us a plug and ask us to rate it based on cumulative run time. It might have been fine for the last 10hrs and is lean now. What I'm saying is that using that plug to give tuning advice is like using a photo to tell how a saw is running in a cant.
 
Yep, unless you warm the saw, install a new plug, cut the saw in the middle of a cut, and read the plug at the base of the insulator, you are not getting an accurate read. All the OP has done is show us a plug and ask us to rate it based on cumulative run time. It might have been fine for the last 10hrs and is lean now. What I'm saying is that using that plug to give tuning advice is like using a photo to tell how a saw is running in a cant.

What nmurph said. What you see in the picture tells you almost nothing.

OTOH, if the insulator, after some full-load running, is white to light beige, with a dark band next to the metal plug body, the plug is fine, for the existing engine conditions and mode of operation.

If the plug is clean & white all the way to the body, the plug is too hot. Had this happen recently with a PP4218. Went a step colder with a reputable plug (NGK). Maybe needs still colder. This is more about the plug than other stuff. A fouled plug is cheap. A molten piston crown, not.

If you adjust carb by a tach, then IMHO you're the same sort of idiots that felt compelled to totally bugger the adjustment of the carb on my 40 cc RedMax.
 
After years of drag racing where you live and die by starring at plugs. I learned back then not to make snap decisions by plugs, we found that not all brands color the same,fuel types color different,even trans types effected color. We learn that you had to be familiar with your combination. Which led me to quickly see with 2 stroke saws all bets are off. If the plug is not broken, wet or worn ie. rounded edges on tip or strap its fine. The color on saw plug is is mainly determind by your mix oil ! Mix oils such as Amsoil and racing mix oils are blended for different usage where smoke is not a factor as sleds and pwcs don't run ex screens and your not standing in your exhaust all day. Smoke will false color plugs. This is not meant to be a neg for these mixes just food for thought.
Clean your screens and tune by EAR ! Ken
 
View attachment 312263 how does my plug look I think it looks ok nice and brown not grey or white indicating lean condition. Dont want to blow this machine up.

Looks like you idled it a little before shutting down and pulling the plug. Look at the wash on the piston crown. The areas in front of the transfers should be about the one quarter the diameter of the piston or more. Dark coffee color is best. Crown should not be dry or look like the plug.

Properly warm the motor. Get into a cut and keep it there at WOT cutting as you normally would for approximately 45 seconds to a minute and shut the motor off. Don't let it idle. NOW look at the plug. It should still look like in the pic but without the sooty appearance around the metal body. Top of the piston should look like good black coffee, wash well defined.

Lean:
197129d1290786370-piston-wash-what-how-do-i-check-wash-piston_lean.jpg

Good (but I would want just a little more):
197130d1290786397-piston-wash-what-how-do-i-check-wash-piston_good.jpg

Rich (I would be comfortable with about 1/2 or a little less of this wash):
197131d1290786418-piston-wash-what-how-do-i-check-wash-piston_rich.jpg


Hope this helps.

Let me add that you MUST tune the saw to four-stroke and just clean up in the cut before you go to fine tuning it by looking at the plug and wash. You run lean and try this you'll burn a hole in the piston. I have always run the screw out enough that I get a four-stroke while I turn the screw in as I climb the rpm range. This guarantees I don't run lean. I let the saw clean up at WOT then turn the screw back out until I get just a burble and that is where I stay.

I usually will go out every other week, so the weather is most likely to have changed from last time I went out. I tune always before running into wood unless the weather is the same as last time I went out.

Color of your plug is perfect by the way.
 
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