Husky 261 starts hard

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atvguns

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Just completed the 261 to 262 conversion used 261 muffler with a 1/2 inch hole drilled in the front then widened it to about 11/16 so it is oval shaped. set squish at 19-20 thousands saw will hit on full choke after two pulls but then it takes 10-12 pulls with chock pushed in before it starts once warm it starts on first pull unless you run it out of gas or let it set for an hour or two. Is is possible that I over did it with the muffler mod or do I need to ritchen the low jet a little. the saw has good throttle response 4 strock's at wot and cleans up good in the cut. just seems like it is not picking up fuel after it sits awhile. I have tried to leave the chock on after the first hit but no good there either.
 
i would add a little more L. did you rebuild your carb? my 261/262 conversion saw cranks easily, as do the two other 262's i have.
have you replaced the plug and checked the coil gap?

you will really like that saw. your's sounds pretty much like what i did with my 261/262 conversion. it will hang with a 7900 in 10-12" wood. i'm not saying its faster, but it will surprise you with how close it can be.

have you checked your compression? mine was blowing 165 bf any run time.
 
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No I do not have a compression guage but by the way it pulls it seems to have plenty. I ran a tank and 1/2 through it today it does run good once you get it started I didn't do anything to the carb except adjust it, the saw was running fine and started fairly easy until I did the conversion
 
i would put something under the front plate to reverse the MM. if it cranks right, then you know where the problem lies. your MM is a little bigger than mine.

here's what i did for a MM.

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i also opened the baffle cage on the original muffler opening by drilling the existing holes out as much as i could. so, i'm guessing i have as much or more opening.
 
That sounds like a good idea I will try that I just have a 288 deflector mounted on the front with the two muffler bolt's no spark screen
 
Look and see if your fast idle latch is holding when you open the choke. Sometimes the notch in the plastic lever on the carb gets worn and when you open the choke it slip out, back to normal idle. I have noticed on a few if you don't pull the choke control out hard enough, the fast idle latch does not full engauge.
 
I suspect it is carb adjustment if you have spark and compression feels right. I think I set mine to 3/4turn (H and L) to get it to fire after rebuild.
 
I probably should have noted that I was running VP SEF.

In any case my repair manual say initial setting of 3/4 on H and 1 turn L turn for the 261 and 1 turn both H and L for the 262XP.

I bought a new carburetor and could not get it to idle with the limiter caps, too rich. It would run but fail the roll over test and load up. I removed the caps and leaned the L out and runs fine. It is running a bit fat at 1.5 turns on the H and 3/4 turn on the L seems about right maybe a bit fat as well.

If you are running corn juice in a different climate / elevation results will obviously be different.

I would start at 1 turn for both and of course tune it properly.
 
I am pretty sure the carb is set right any way it has good throttle response and 4 strocks wot then cleans up in the cut the only thing I can think of is richen the L a little.
 
Stock 262XP muffler...did you go more than this?

You should have decent throttle response even if the L is a bit rich? Mine started really hard until I leaned out the L. You will have poor throttle response if the L is too lean.
Chainsaw_parts_6439678_large.jpg
 
LOL no offense taken. I imagine it would flow good and be nice and loud without cover. I've never seen the 262 front cover. I'm guessing it's similar to the 261? I don't understand where the muffler gets more flow if the exhaust outlet is the same. I was shooting for 125-150% total > muffler outlet area than port area when I did mine. Mine is very similar to yours Neal.

When I did the dual port on my 365 it started hard until I adjusted the L jet which is what I was getting at. Even a re-ring job would require tuning.
 
OK when I get off work I wil try to lean out the L and see what it does any ill efects of getting it to lean I know it you screw it in to far the idle screw will not have any effect on ideling the saw down
 
Too lean = poor throttle response. Saw should also idle higher. Proper method to adjust the L would be go to where throttle response gets poor. Then richen it until throttle response is good. Adjust the idle screw so saw idles there. Put saw upside down, left, right, etc. If it loads up (sputtering sporatically at idle) or stalls doing so it is too rich (pooling fuel in intake). If not, richen L more. You will have to bump the idle up each time you richen the L. Perform the rollover test until it starts to stall then lean it back out a hair. Perform final adjust of idle and assure it does not stall there. Tune the H jet after you have it idling good.

If you cannot get it to idle and not stall you likely have an air leak or need a carb kit (unlikely since it was fine before). It's also possible you covered up one of the impulse ports but if it runs good once you are into it I doubt it. Also possible that the choke is not giving you the 1/4 bump on the trhottle as someone else mentioned.
 
I think I got it. It was a combination of operator error and carb adjustment. I dont think I was getting the choke out far enough for the fast idle to kick in and I also richen the L screw like suggested in the above post starts . On third pull now one on choke then 2 on fast idle thanks for all the info guys

rep for those that I can
 
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