husky 357xp overheating still

[Zackman1801]

awhile back i posted on here with aproblem with my 357 muffler overheating, i thought i had the problem pinpointed to the automatic decompression valve on it and had it taken out and the holes plugged. But its still doing it, the holes are plugged and no air is getting by there, the carb is adjusted correctly, its not a CAT muffler since its and older model. Im not sure if it has a plastic clamp on the intake boot or not, but if air was leaking in there could that cause the muffler to get hot? if i run the saw do i run the risk of burning it up since its getting hot like that? Im not really sure what it could be or what it is, but its getting me ticked off. i run the saw for a moment make a few cuts and its really really hot, i tried the same with my husky 365 made the same ammount of cuts on it but that muffler was significantly cooler, i placed a small ammount of snow on each after i shut them off and the husky 365 merely melted the snow and the water ran off, the 357 melted the snow and quickly evaporated the water.

any suggestions would be a great deal of help.
thanks
zack

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Have you changed the fuel line ???

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I wouldnt worry about it, if it's taching out okay. If it's actually running lean, time to worry.

Ill throw this out there...you need to know CHT, or EGT before you suspect a muffler overheating problem. Muffler composition, muffler design, etc has a large effect on muffler temps.

But It's a muffler, it's going to get damn hot in a damn hurry. We have Huskys, Poulans, some echos, come in all the time with the overhand over the muffler browned, somerimes fully melted down, Even Stihls do it....mufflers get HOT.

You donr by chance have a wide scale infared thermometer do you?

 

[HiOctane]

What tells you he mufler is overheating?Top cover melting ?

 

[blsnelling]

I would think any saw out there that runs very long would boil water on the muffler.

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Ok I didn't read the whole post ,, but now when I done it I can tell you that my three Huskys all melt and evaporate the snow after I run them for a while
does your saw "over rev" suddenly after you run it or loose power in the cut ???
if it do that it could be an air leak, but the muffler do get very hot even under normal conditions.

 

[J.Walker]

Is there a winter flap on your air box?
Pull the muffler off and see if the gasket is missing. Clean out your muffler while it's off too!

 

[Pablo26]

Do you have a clogged spark screen? Otherwise I agree that melting snow and making steam are totally normal, and would only be concerned if plastic starts to melt.

 

[Zackman1801]

Do you have a clogged spark screen? Otherwise I agree that melting snow and making steam are totally normal, and would only be concerned if plastic starts to melt.

NO way it could be a cat, its too old. Carb was reset by the dealer when i got it back today. The saw only runs for mabey 1 minute just enough to make a cut or 2 and by that time is really really hot, it makes the wood chips that accumulate near it smoke and you can smell the excess bar oil burning. I know its running hotter than my other saws because after doing the same work with the other saws they arent hardly hot at all. Im just worried that the muffler will get hot enough to score the piston and cylinder on the exhaust side. PLastic hasnt melted anywhere, its really strange, the guy ditched the saw for free for unknown reasons, the guy is a professional so it makes me wonder what made him ditch it.

 

[Lakeside53]

The smallest change of your H screw around the "optimal" point will make a big difference in your exhaust gas temperature... if you're worried, just make it richer...

 

[RED-85-Z51]

You muffler isnt going to get hot enough to score the piston and cylinder at the Exh. port...

The muffler gets hot becasue it catches the brunt of the extremely hot gasses as they exit the head.

Water evaps at 212 degrees, CHT will be around 350 degrees, EGT will be around 1100 degrees...or more when being pushed in the cut...so The muffler is going to be over 1000 degrees.

Id be more worried if it isnt sizzling snow...

 

[Banshee]

I know you did the melting snow test already (j/k), but have you looked at your plug? I think you would know your saw. So if it's over heating than I think you would know. Reading your plug will tell you alot on what the engine is doing.
Is the saw stock? High compression, advanced timing, will cause it to run hotter. And if it's over heating because it's built then you need to run a higher octane. High octane will burn cooler than low octane.




Disclaimer: I'm not a professional and I may even be a drunk so take my advice at that.

 

[Brushwacker]

I had an O32 stihl that I switched to points from electronic and could not get the timing advanced far enough . It run very hot similar to what your saying until I put an aftermarket module on it.
You should be able to tell if its running lean by the sound of the motor. If thats it richen the carb setting should do it unless you have an air leak which a pressure and vacume test may be the best way to find it.
First I would check the muffler screws for tightness and the screen as previously mentioned. Check your flywheel key. If the flywheel moved your timing can be off causing the problem. If you can't find a problem how bout trying opening the muffler up (muffler mod ) and richening the carb.

 

[Justsaws]

How long ago was it tuned and is it at the screaming edge of lean?

Does it over-heat your hand while holding the front handle bar?

How many pulls to start?

How does it run at w.o.t., how does it idle, and what happens when you squeeze the the trigger?

Does it take long to warm up after starting? Do you have to feather it to keep it running?

What year was it manufactured?


As others have said, make it richer. Check the muffler for restrictions. If you feel that it is not operating correctly than perhaps more conversations with the dealer are in order.

 

[GASoline71]

Do you have a clogged spark screen? Otherwise I agree that melting snow and making steam are totally normal, and would only be concerned if plastic starts to melt.

NO way it could be a cat, its too old. Carb was reset by the dealer when i got it back today. The saw only runs for mabey 1 minute just enough to make a cut or 2 and by that time is really really hot, it makes the wood chips that accumulate near it smoke and you can smell the excess bar oil burning. I know its running hotter than my other saws because after doing the same work with the other saws they arent hardly hot at all. Im just worried that the muffler will get hot enough to score the piston and cylinder on the exhaust side. PLastic hasnt melted anywhere, its really strange, the guy ditched the saw for free for unknown reasons, the guy is a professional so it makes me wonder what made him ditch it.

A spark screen has nothing to do with it being a cat muffler. That saw will have a spark screen in it unless it has been removed bu the previous owner. Pull the screen and check to make sure it's not clogged...

How do you know he is a "professional"... I know a few "professionals" that I would not let near my saws...

Gary

 

[SawTroll]

Is there a winter flap on your air box?
Pull the muffler off and see if the gasket is missing. Clean out your muffler while it's off too!

Yes, it will run hot if that flap is open when it shouldn't (consult user manual).


If it is an older saw, check for a leak at the boot behind the cylinder - there has been upgrades on those due to problems on some early saws.

 

[Zackman1801]

A spark screen has nothing to do with it being a cat muffler. That saw will have a spark screen in it unless it has been removed bu the previous owner. Pull the screen and check to make sure it's not clogged...

How do you know he is a "professional"... I know a few "professionals" that I would not let near my saws...

Gary

when i said it cant be cat i was referring to an earlier post.

the guy has been in the buisiness for around 30 years and hes still getting buisiness so he has to be doing something right.

I just got the plug changed when i got the saw back.

im wondering if im getting an air leak because its old enough to have a plastic clamp on the intake, i checked it but i dosent seem to be deformed but if there is a leak i most likely wont be able to see it with my eye.

it runs and idles fine for now but i havent done much testing since i got it back yesterday afternoon and headed out. it was too late to do anything when i got home. It just strikes me as odd that the muffler would get so hot in only a minutes worth of cutting.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

when i said it cant be cat i was referring to an earlier post.

the guy has been in the buisiness for around 30 years and hes still getting buisiness so he has to be doing something right.

I just got the plug changed when i got the saw back.

im wondering if im getting an air leak because its old enough to have a plastic clamp on the intake, i checked it but i dosent seem to be deformed but if there is a leak i most likely wont be able to see it with my eye.

it runs and idles fine for now but i havent done much testing since i got it back yesterday afternoon and headed out. it was too late to do anything when i got home. It just strikes me as odd that the muffler would get so hot in only a minutes worth of cutting.

Show me a saw that you can cut 3 8" cookies with, and the muffler isnt over 600 degrees....do it, it cant be done. Mufflers get hot, fast.

you shouldnt be able to touch a saw muffler after 10 seconds of clean idling from cold....

 

[Pablo26]

Yes, it will run hot if that flap is open when it shouldn't (consult user manual).


If it is an older saw, check for a leak at the boot behind the cylinder - there has been upgrades on those due to problems on some early saws.

That could very well be it as it is known problem on that vintage. You want a metal clamp on there and not plastic.

 

[J.Walker]

. If it is an older saw, check for a leak at the boot behind the cylinder - there has been upgrades on those due to problems on some early saws.

SawTroll I just had the plastic clamp replaced on my 357.
At Spikes GTG the saw felt so different from other 357's. Have not had a chance to run it yet.