Husky 357xp scored!

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Got a chance to work on this saw some more today. It has the Warlboro carb. The limiter tabs are in place and were set as fat as they would allow. The gas that was in it, appears to have at least some mix in it (It was almost full thu, so who knows what was in the previous tank of gas). The issue of it being very hard to pull thru was that the bolts holding the coil in place were loose and it was hitting the flywheel (fixed, and post fix have spark). The cylinder looks savable, I need to get some acid and some 600 paper, and clean it up. Will be buying a new piston, ring, wrist pin, circlips (meteor from baileys). I can't tell if its the warlboro carb being bad, or bad gas that cause this score, to be determined.

Pics:

Saw
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Loose bolts on coil, flywheel hitting
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Exhaust side cylinder
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Intake side
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Gas in the saw, clear bottle
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SilverBox said:
Got a chance to work on this saw some more today. It has the Warlboro carb. The limiter tabs are in place and were set as fat as they would allow. The gas that was in it, appears to have at least some mix in it (It was almost full thu, so who knows what was in the previous tank of gas). The issue of it being very hard to pull thru was that the bolts holding the coil in place were loose and it was hitting the flywheel (fixed, and post fix have spark). The cylinder looks savable, I need to get some acid and some 600 paper, and clean it up. Will be buying a new piston, ring, wrist pin, circlips (meteor from baileys). I can't tell if its the warlboro carb being bad, or bad gas that cause this score, to be determined.

Pics:

Saw
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Loose bolts on coil, flywheel hitting
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Exhaust side cylinder
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Intake side
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Gas in the saw, clear bottle
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Click to expand...

This gas don't look right! At the very least, it has the wrong type of oil. This needs to go some where on the root cause list. Maybe not at the top. This saw has several problems at once. Take your time and trust your gut feelings.
ZG
 
Pull the blue wire off the kill switch and ground tab to get it out of the way and heat a knife blade with a mapp gas torch, cut the limiter housing right down the middle between the 2 screws and yank the two halves and the plastic caps off with needle nose pliers. Now you will have the two fuel screws exposed with springs intact. Then return the blue wire.
Worked that way on my 357 anyways. I'm 3 turns out with a muffler mod, saws running good, need to keep going out until it burbles, damn rain here is messing up my wood cutting and saw playing time!
Great pics, hope that jug cleans up ok.
BTW I have had zero problems with my 357, runs, idles perfect.
 
Last edited:
Well It looks like the cylinder can't be saved. Its been gouged thru the plating in several spots ;(. You can't catch a nail on any of them, but you can sure feel them, and its hard to tell, but to me it looks like its thru the plating, probably 10 thousandths or so. Don't think it would be a good idea to run it like that.

Now I have to decide if I want to put a OEM 357 top end (~$180) on it or a aftermarket 359 topend (~$80).. Can't seem to find an aftermarket 357 topend.

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Well that sucks. At baileys at least that $180 includes the piston, pin, bearing and such. Guess you got to decide how much money you want to throw at it. No used jugs on flea bay or here?
 
Fastcast said:
Uuuuuuuuh......where's the jackals that usually show up within 15min. if it's a Dolmar?.....Imagine, a saw burns up. That never happens to better brands :rolleyes:.....Must be some defect or company conspiracy. :givebeer:

Descent find, regardless of my sarcasm! lol
Click to expand...

We would show up earlier but 357s are old news, almost antiques in the grand scheme of things. The other reason is that Husqvarna nuts know the 357s have a meriad of issues and do not get all sissy sensitve about thier sewing machines having flaws.

Dolmar nuts on the other hand think they have discovered some sort of magic secret technology. Just so you know,

IT IS NOT MAGIC.
IT IS NOT A SECRET.
IT IS ONLY A DOLMAR. IF YOU ARE PATIENT THE WILL RE-DUE IT AND FIX ALL OF THE ISSUES. OPPS, THEY ALREADY DID. HMMMMM, WONDER WHY THEY CHANGED WHAT THEY DID? MUST HAVE JUST DECIDED TO UPDATE IT, MAKE IT HEAVIER AND LESS POWERFUL........THAT'S COOL, MAYBE THEY WILL SELL MORE THAN 12 PER DEALER THIS TIME ROUND, NAH, PROBABLY NOT. HECK THAT WOULD BE IMPRESSIVE NUMBERS IF THEY HAD MORE THAN 12 DEALERS.

There you go, DILMERS have had a thrashing and not even in a DILMER thread. You may rest assured that the easiest way to bash a Husqvarna is with a hammer or a Stihl because if Stihl keeps making them heavier that will be their best use.
 
SilverBox said:
Well It looks like the cylinder can't be saved. Its been gouged thru the plating in several spots ;(. You can't catch a nail on any of them, but you can sure feel them, and its hard to tell, but to me it looks like its thru the plating, probably 10 thousandths or so. Don't think it would be a good idea to run it like that.

Now I have to decide if I want to put a OEM 357 top end (~$180) on it or a aftermarket 359 topend (~$80).. Can't seem to find an aftermarket 357 topend.

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Click to expand...

That looks like aluminum smear to me. Give her a go again with some acid and some 400 to 600 grit paper.
 
wigglesworth said:
That looks like aluminum smear to me. Give her a go again with some acid and some 400 to 600 grit paper.
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Thanks for the push. I worked it for awhile with 600, but wasn't getting anywhere so I droped back and sanded the piss out of it with 320 and almost everything cleaned up. A few spots I had to sand it down quite awhile to get the pitting out or at least so I couldn't feel it. Then I went over it with 400 and 600. After that I gave it a light scuff with 400, since I don't have a hone. I'm gonna put a meteor in it and see how it does. Maybe I'll try a mild port job. widen out the intake and exhaust on each side 1mm.

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Last edited:
Well I gave it a mild port job. Didn't touch transfers, took maybe 1.5-2mm off of each side of intake and exhaust ports. Didn't raise or lower intake or exhaust. Left squish stock. Its back together and sounds pretty good, but don't have a bar and chain yet, so only idle'd it so far with a few blips of the throttle to heat/cold cycle it.

Intake
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Exhaust
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Exhaust
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Cool if it turns out you were able to save the jug. With a muffler mod and tuned, I think you will really like the way it runs if the compression is good.
 
pioneerguy600 said:
Put the Zama C3-42 carb in it and don`t look back, just completing one myself and it`s been the saw from h--l, it will be a nice runner now.
Pioneerguy600
Click to expand...

Yep. The rebuild kit didn't work on my 2159. the Zama C3-42 was almost perfect out of the box, turned the idle down 1/16 turn, low side rich on the limiter, high side 1/8 turn in from the rich side of the limiter and it runs like it should! Put most of a tank through it bucking up a tree I'd knocked down a while ago with my Dolmar 510 when I found the carb rebuild didn't work. Now the 2159 starts easy hot or cold and doesn't fight me to rev or shut down all the time.

It'll take one or two more projects before I trust it for sure, but I think this problem is finally licked!!! (famous last words)

Thanks for everybody's thoughts and help.
 
Well after I got this all together and made a few cuts it exhibited all the symtoms of a bad warlboro carb, ie. dying after the cut, tried to tune it out, but wasn't having any luck. So I ordered the Zama carb from Baileys and put it in today. Works like a dream now.

All finished finally:

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