JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
WOOD pm me your email adress i got a pic of the breather for ya
Husky with a hairline crack, see pic!!! patching suggesitons?!?!?
- Thread starter woodbutcher80
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JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
tank breather
here is the pic, pm'd ya but no answer so i'll just post it on here. took my saw apart for the pic.
it's made of copper and pressed into the tank, it alway's clogs up. i spray it with brake clean and blow off.
here is the pic, pm'd ya but no answer so i'll just post it on here. took my saw apart for the pic.
it's made of copper and pressed into the tank, it alway's clogs up. i spray it with brake clean and blow off.
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woodbutcher80
ArboristSite Member
sorry, had to hit the hay . ill check it out after work. thanks for the pic!! you guys are awesome
woodbutcher80
ArboristSite Member
i attached a pic too. . i think im in the right general area (pointing where i think it is with allen key ) . . cant see anything though .
also , i can take off more to get to it. if i unbolt all the anti vib allen screws, will the top just come right off? or do i need to remove anything else, like spark plug wire, throttle trigger paper clip wire?
also , i can take off more to get to it. if i unbolt all the anti vib allen screws, will the top just come right off? or do i need to remove anything else, like spark plug wire, throttle trigger paper clip wire?
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JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
yours appears to be different than mine, maybe canadian model's are different.
PatrickIreland
ArboristSite Guru
I fixed a VW Diesel sump with JB Weld and that metal-filled 2-needle epoxy Araldite). I'd taken it for a bit of spontaneous off-roading, hit a rock and tore the sump. Knocked it back into place as best I could, cleaned it with copious amounts of carb cleaner from the inside of the sump, forced JB Weld into the crack, then flooded the area with epoxy once the JB weld had hardened. 3 years later it still doesn't leak a drop.
danrclem
Addicted to ArboristSite
+1 on the Marine Tex. If the JB Weld doesn't work try the Marine Tex.
I looked at the picture magnified and it looks like it is also cracked below the front bar stud and running down into the adjustment screw area. Possibly a crack starting at back one too. Take a close look and see if I am right, might just be the pics. Also grab those bar studs and see if loose in the case. If they are and they are cracked around them, you will have to change the case.
Here is a tip for you guys that use JB Weld. PC-7 is the same thing and you can buy it in mini paint cans for a lot less money. I have been using it for 40 years with very few failures and many sucesses. Battery cases, fuel tanks, etc.
Just a note on epoxy type repairs. Few epoxies will hold back fuel or solvents for long periods of time.
We see hundreds of carburetors in here for repair/rebuilding/restoration. Many will have had some sort of epoxy (in most cases JB Weld) "dabbed" over the bottom plugs of the main casting at some point in their life. At least 90, if not 95 percent of them will leak right thru the glue. We apply high pressure compressed air to the plugs from the back side, and apply a soap/water mixture over the plugs, not a static test.
JB weld is not so good with fuel, it also has trouble staying attached when simply "dabbed" over the base material, probably because the carburetors they are used on go through countless heating up/cooling down cycles.
We actually tested half a dozen expoxy type products here in the shop, and only Marine Tex and one product from Devcon (can't remember the exact number) held up in constact contact with gasoline.
Marine Tex in long term use is a better product for sealing up fuel, oils, solvents, etc. It also holds on better in applications where it can only be "dabbed" over the repair area, and in applications that see heating up/cooling down cycles.
We highly recomend bead blasting and degreasing, and warming the area lightly with a propane torque prior to application. The bead blasting "etches" the surface, and helps give the clue something to attach to.......Cliff
We see hundreds of carburetors in here for repair/rebuilding/restoration. Many will have had some sort of epoxy (in most cases JB Weld) "dabbed" over the bottom plugs of the main casting at some point in their life. At least 90, if not 95 percent of them will leak right thru the glue. We apply high pressure compressed air to the plugs from the back side, and apply a soap/water mixture over the plugs, not a static test.
JB weld is not so good with fuel, it also has trouble staying attached when simply "dabbed" over the base material, probably because the carburetors they are used on go through countless heating up/cooling down cycles.
We actually tested half a dozen expoxy type products here in the shop, and only Marine Tex and one product from Devcon (can't remember the exact number) held up in constact contact with gasoline.
Marine Tex in long term use is a better product for sealing up fuel, oils, solvents, etc. It also holds on better in applications where it can only be "dabbed" over the repair area, and in applications that see heating up/cooling down cycles.
We highly recomend bead blasting and degreasing, and warming the area lightly with a propane torque prior to application. The bead blasting "etches" the surface, and helps give the clue something to attach to.......Cliff
woodbutcher80
ArboristSite Member
i checked for other cracks, but nothing. i squeezed em and moved em pretty good and no movement at all . well its all sealed up for now, and drying. ill use it this weekend and have to see what happens....
i still need to get this tank vent thing goin. . . i guess i could find out where it is on my own... do i just remove the anti vib bolts and im good? or do i need to take off spark plug and the throttle trigger paper clip looking wire?
woodbutcher80
ArboristSite Member
got her up and running... cuts great and no leaking oil! i used a jb weld base and then a thin coat of loc-tite commercial epoxy mix.
see results in pic
see results in pic
