Husqvarna 162, 2x 266, 268 Frankensaw Project

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If you have the seals on thr crank rotates a little bit odd. Seals off it should rotate freely. Take a mallet and smack the crank a little it should free the krank. By the look of the last pic you should bang on the flyweel side.
 
If you have the seals on thr crank rotates a little bit odd. Seals off it should rotate freely. Take a mallet and smack the crank a little it should free the krank. By the look of the last pic you should bang on the flyweel side.
Thanks for the tip. That makes sense because I had to pull the last 1/8 inch together with the screws so it probably put some sideways tension on the crank side. Seals are not in so it should be free.

Brian
 
That worked perfect, 2 solid smacks with a rubber mallet and it turns nice and smooth. Thanks again for that tip nenicu!

Brian
 
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Hylomar and gasket in place on the 266, going in the freezer now. Maybe I will get the 162 mated today as well. I got the last couple parts I needed to close these all up finally.

Brian
 
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162 is prepped now too. Finally feels like I am getting somewhere!

Brian
 
268, 266, 162 all mated. Need to apply the mallet trick to the 162 yet but making headway. Too nice outside 62 and sunny so seals and pistons can wait.[emoji57]

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Brian
 
Darn it! [emoji35] the bearing moved in the clutch side when I pushed these together. Weird thing is of all 3 of them that one slipped closest together before using the bolts. Maybe I got the bearing too hot? After the mallet smacking it rotates but not freely, feels like a detent in it. That is when I noticed the bearing gap and it had moved.

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Brian
 
Yep, pushed the 162 apart and I managed to ruin the clutch side bearing. I either heated to the point of warping it or somehow had a misalignment maybe and bent the cage?

Brian
 
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Installed the crank seals and oil pumps into the 268 and 266. Still waiting for the new bearing to come to catch the 162 up. The Hylomar let that gasket on the 162 free with ease so that is pretty slick I can use it again. Next step will be the pistons & cylinders.

Still wish I new a better way to mate the case halves without having to use the screws to pull the bearing on.

Brian
 
One of the 266 air filters had a few areas where only the course part of the element existed. I used some RTV to carefully plug it up. Saw that trick on a different thread.

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Brian
 
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New bearings arrived. Installed one in the clutch side of the 162 and hylomar on the gasket and it is set. Will mate in the AM, hopefully it goes better this time.

Brian
 
[emoji35] This is getting frustrating. Bearing moved again. I am going to try putting the bearing on the crank first and see what happens. [emoji35]

Brian
 
Putting the bearing on first worked great. Finally have all 3 to the same point. Pistons installed, cylinders mounted. Note to self and others. When putting the oil pump on don't forget to put in the oil pick up tube first and make sure the tiny rubber gasket is on the oiler. Notice the orange gasket that tiny little black one next to the oiler it the one I mean, easy to miss and one stayed on the crank case when the oiler was removed.

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Brian
 
And also remember a new big o ring to seal the oiler to the case so there are no air leaks.
+1 I did do that but even forgot to put one on, noticed the bag with an o-ring in it and had a duh! moment.

Brian
 
I always put the bearings on the crank first and then put the flywheel side in the case then bolt the other side on, With the use of the freezer and heat. Nice saws by the way!!!
 
Still wish I new a better way to mate the case halves without having to use the screws to pull the bearing on.

Brian[/QUOTE]
Use thin wall tubing or something similar as a spacer over the crank to sit on the inner race of the bearing. Then use a clutch spider to tighten and pull the clutch side crank thru the bearing. You can add washers as needed as the crank comes thru. Same on the flywheel side with a nut. No stress on case or bearing.
 
Use thin wall tubing or something similar as a spacer over the crank to sit on the inner race of the bearing. Then use a clutch spider to tighten and pull the clutch side crank thru the bearing. You can add washers as needed as the crank comes thru. Same on the flywheel side with a nut. No stress on case or bearing.

Do you have a picture of this method?

Brian
 
Does anyone have a parts saw laying around that could part with the top grommet shown in this photo? I have been watching the bay for weeks. It is the grommet the fuel line comes through on husky 162, 266.

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Brian

Brian
 
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