Husqvarna 181

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Thanks. There are some good ones left out there, got lucky on this purchased. The seller didn't really want to do a compression test or inspect the piston, etc, they just claimed it ran like a "Swiss Watch". That fact made me a bit leary of the deal. We negotiated a price of $350, cost me $14 to ship it via my commercial UPS account, so I'm into the saw pretty good.

I'm sure the seller though it ran fine, and they may not have loaded it really heavy, etc. Good news is that it was a simple fix and the saw is in great shape overall......Cliff
 
That's a very clean 181 and unlikely there's anything major wrong with that good compression reading!

Many of the 181 carbs are "fuel governed" (I just learned this).......They will dump too much fuel too soon and act just like you mentioned.....If you have what looks like a brass pipe plug in the side of your carb, that's what it is (the governor).

Another thing to look at is the connections of the spade ends of the ignition wires at the module at the flywheel and the top coil......If those are loose, they'll miss sometimes.

I'm gonna stop looking at your pics now, because your 181 is making mine look bad.:)


HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!....I should have read your whole post....I see you got it figured out.:buttkick:
 
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That is a good looking 181 , good it also works well, you never know what you are getting from eBay. They are a strong saw so a longer bar and bigger wood is a must to try them out for fun factor. I`ve only had one of them and it is an impressive saw for its cc size.
Pioneerguy600
 
Thanks for the info, I'll check today to see if it's fuel governed or not?

I was actually going to post a question about the module, to see if they were rpm limited?

The loose connection made it act like it had a rev limiting feature on it. It missed horribly at no load, even if you set the carb pretty lean. It was missing really bad at high rpm's in the cut, and under heavy load as well.

I thought at that point the coil was bad, or the rev limiter was coming it way too early.

It also showed up with a new Champion spark plug in it, so the previous owner may have been trying to correct the problem?

I put a Bosch plug in it, no better, so I knew it was something else, thank goodness just a loose coil wire. I'm pretty happy at this point, aside from some indications the previous owner threw a lot of chains off the saw, it's in great shape for the age. The clutch cover is cracked, but still fine. Paint is good, fuel line if good, and great compression. I didn't check the compression warmed up, or with the throttle opened up. Cold with the throttle closed it was over 170psi. No internal engine noises, and I flipped the saw in all positions at idle and it ran fine, so I imagine the seals and case are fine as well.

I've got a 28" bar and chain coming for it, and a HUGE old Maple tree up on the farm just laying there waiting for us!......Cliff
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Yep, if it looks as good as the pics it's in very good shape. I kind-a rolled the dice on it. The only one I've ever seen was at a GTG and it was a really strong runner, but I'm not sure what was done to that one?

I've been looking really hard at getting a 372XP to replace the old 480CD. I'm hoping this one is worthy of that assignment? I really love older saws, they seem a lot more "solid" that the newer stuff.

A guy showed up here today with an old David Bradley gear drive saw, it actually fired right off after sitting some 20 years, but didn't want to run well or stay running. It was still pretty cool hearing that heavy old beast roar to life!.....Cliff

The 181 actually was the model that replaced the 480CD in 1982 - more cc, more power, and a bit less weight.

Totally new design.
 
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I just freshened up a 281XP that was given to me. Same saw basically. They are strong saws and you do need to keep the starter assembly in good shape because the lack of a decompression button does put some stress on it with the compression these saws have. If yours - or mine - ends up needing a new top end, you can install the 288 P&C and that will have a decomp feature.

BTW - Bailey's has lots of parts available for them. I bought a complete clutch cover/brake assembly from them for my 281.

But for now, run it!
 
"The 181 actually was the model that replaced the 480CD in 1982 - more cc, more power, and a bit less weight."

Thanks Sawtroll.

Mine tops the scales at exactly 21lbs with a 20 bar and chain and full tank of fuel.

It is a strong running saw, but not able to see any difference in 16" wood, I'll get it into a big tree and see how much better it does than the old 480CD?....Cliff
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If your 181 has a fuel govenor or "blubber jet" as we called them, you can bypass it by pulling the brass screw head out and putting either a small welch plug down in the bottom or a little toilet paper down there then put the screw back in. We use to do it all the time. I'm kind of thinking the "blubber jet" carbs did not come along until the 281's though. The 181 is still one of my favorite Husqvarna chainsaws ever made.
 
What improvment(s) do you see by disabling the "blubber jet"? I have a 181SE in really nice shape, with over 180psi cold cranking pressure. It it a very strong runner, plenty of rpm's, etc. Just wondering if the mod helps with upper rpm power?.....Cliff
 
What improvment(s) do you see by disabling the "blubber jet"? I have a 181SE in really nice shape, with over 180psi cold cranking pressure. It it a very strong runner, plenty of rpm's, etc. Just wondering if the mod helps with upper rpm power?.....Cliff

It's just like getting rid of any govenor, you can set your hi speed rpms where you wanna instead of the govenor doing it for you. Are you sure your 181 even has one?
 
What improvment(s) do you see by disabling the "blubber jet"? I have a 181SE in really nice shape, with over 180psi cold cranking pressure. It it a very strong runner, plenty of rpm's, etc. Just wondering if the mod helps with upper rpm power?.....Cliff

Doesn't really give you any more power, but will allow you to tune it properly. If you have a modded saw like my 181, the governor will kick in way too low for the engine's capability and will run much too rich. Also the little spring in the ballbearing valve in the gov. screw can get weak or break and stick open or open way too early, making it a nightmare to try to tune, or even flooding it altogether.

For the record both of my 181s have governed carbs, and the other two I've worked on for other people also had them.
 
It's an extremely fine-threaded brass screw about 5/16" diameter (but probably metric somehow), so I don't know how you'd go about finding something that would fit perfectly. I've blocked three on 181s and a couple on other saws and all I did was cut a bunch of 1/4" discs from a cut-open aluminum can with a punch. Spare welch plugs work too, but why waste them? Pull out the brass governor screw (the valve is contained in the screw itself), drop a disc down into the hole and make sure it's sitting flat, and re-seat the screw nice and tight. Use of some very light threadlocking compound here isn't a bad idea; just make sure it's something you can still break free without too much pressure since the brass screw will strip easily.
 
Brad, thanks for the detailed info. I haven't looked at the carb on mine yet, but it probably has the screw. I also just bought a parts saw off Ebay that has a carb on it, so I'll take a look at that one as well.

I bought my saw on a leap of faith. The guy running the Ebay auction refused to do a compression test on it, but said it started easily and ran "like a Swiss Watch".

I was skeptical, and made an offer on it, as it was a Buy it Now auction with "Best Offer" as well. He took the offer.

The saw started easily idled great and ran like CRAP when I tried to use it. I knew it was ignition related. Turns out the wire connector on the wire running up to the secondary coil was loose. I fixed the connection, and the saw runs flawlessly. It has great power, and runs pretty high rpm's, control of the A/F with the "H" screw, etc. The engine 4-strokes at no load, and cleans up nicely when load is applied, etc. I haven't had a reason to disable the fuel control/governor, but can't see how doing so could be a negative?

I'll take a look at the one on the parts saw first, so I can see the parts involved and what I need to block off?.......Cliff
 
Doesn't really give you any more power, but will allow you to tune it properly. If you have a modded saw like my 181, the governor will kick in way too low for the engine's capability and will run much too rich. Also the little spring in the ballbearing valve in the gov. screw can get weak or break and stick open or open way too early, making it a nightmare to try to tune, or even flooding it altogether.

For the record both of my 181s have governed carbs, and the other two I've worked on for other people also had them.






....Brad, what kinda work you have done to your 181?.....need ideas for mine!
 

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