husqvarna 268

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RDT

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ont know much about Husqvarna's , but I picked up this 268 up yesturday for cheap. Doesnt run , needs fuel line and maybe some other things , piston and bore look good. Tag on the case says Husqvarna 268 , 2321352 , Sweden if anybody can tell me what year it is , and if its worth putting some money in it. Any info would be appreciated.
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the 268 is a saw that can easily be converted to a 272 by changing the jug and piston. There are 2 versions that I know of open port and closed port. I have heard there isn't much difference. Some may debate me on this. I enjoy my 268 but have to watchout for loose top cover holes and the rubber fitting that goes between the carb. It has been known to cause air leaks. on the site there is a lot of good information about this saw. Don't be scared to search.
 
the 268 is a saw that can easily be converted to a 272 by changing the jug and piston. There are 2 versions that I know of open port and closed port. I have heard there isn't much difference. Some may debate me on this. I enjoy my 268 but have to watchout for loose top cover holes and the rubber fitting that goes between the carb. It has been known to cause air leaks. on the site there is a lot of good information about this saw. Don't be scared to search.

268xp: 3.5 kW/4.8 hp

272xp: 3.8 kW/5.2 hp

268 (open port): 3.2 kW/4.4 hp

This is with the OEM Mahle and Gilardoni top ends, aftermarket stuff is likely to produce less power output.

Brazilian made 272s are rated at only 3.6 kW/4.9 hp, but I don't know if the reason is the Brazilian made top ends, or something else.
 
Thanks for the info.
 

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268xp: 3.5 kW/4.8 hp

272xp: 3.8 kW/5.2 hp

268 (open port): 3.2 kW/4.4 hp

This is with the OEM Mahle and Gilardoni top ends, aftermarket stuff is likely to produce less power output.

Brazilian made 272s are rated at only 3.6 kW/4.9 hp, but I don't know if the reason is the Brazilian made top ends, or something else.
boy I'd love to get my hands on a couple Brazilian 272's... one to use a bit, and one to leave on the shelf.
 
Ill have fuel line hopefully by wednesday well see if it runs or not !
 
Well I got fuel line put on and still not running . To make a long story short pulled cylinder and there is bar oil in the crank case . Tore saw all the way down and the cases have been split before and it has been repaired . You can see the repair in the blurry photo . I scraped off whatever they used and it is actually cracked . Would that be a good reason for it not to start ? I was thinking I would still be able to get it to fire off and run for a sec . Any advice would be appreciated .
 

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Lol yeah I'm going to say if I pressure tested mine it would of been like that .
 
Tig welded the crack in the case , put saw back toghether , thought for sure I was going to have a runner after a few pulls , and a few more pulls, nothing . To make a long story short , the fly wheel was not correct , got the new one and fired right up runs and functions like a new one . Oh well thats what happens when buy someone elses project some times .
 
I should have thought of that! The cast key way on my striped out and had to replace with an Allen set screw. Good to hear its up and running!
 
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