353 piston needs no mods....it is flat top instead if dished....it has more compression 
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eBay. the 44 mm 350's were the "open port" versions & the 45's were the cylinders with the "caps" on the side. 353's also had that cylinder.
The 45mm:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/METEOR-BRAN...163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c4da9503
The 44mm (open port cylinder) from episan.. also a good piston.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Piston-Kit-...946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dbcfac72
I've also had good luck with golf brand pistons for the 44mm 350's
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Great thread, I dunno how I missed this one.
I love my 350, it's got a flat topped 353 piston in the stock 45mm cylinder and has no guts whatsoever in the muffler, just a can with two bolt channels, a hole and the deflector. Good power, great exhaust note. I'm going to try a loop of Stihl RM yellow semi-chisel on it if I can find some, it doesn't seem to like the LPX with the .325 configuration in hardwoods...too aggressive with that many cutter heads. Might also try some BPX and compare with the Stihl chain.
One thing I have noticed is that it seems to be a bit stingy with oil in the cut. Is that normal with these saws? It does get oil to the bar and drivers, just not as much as I'm used to. After a longer cut there is usually just a slight film on the drivers and the cutters are dry.
I love my 350, it's got a flat topped 353 piston in the stock 45mm cylinder and has no guts whatsoever in the muffler, just a can with two bolt channels, a hole and the deflector. Good power, great exhaust note. I'm going to try a loop of Stihl RM yellow semi-chisel on it if I can find some, it doesn't seem to like the LPX with the .325 configuration in hardwoods...too aggressive with that many cutter heads. Might also try some BPX and compare with the Stihl chain.
One thing I have noticed is that it seems to be a bit stingy with oil in the cut. Is that normal with these saws? It does get oil to the bar and drivers, just not as much as I'm used to. After a longer cut there is usually just a slight film on the drivers and the cutters are dry.
Ok, I'll give it a try, thanks353 piston needs no mods....it is flat top instead if dished....it has more compression
No prob. I'd still like to know if there are 3 variants... 44, 44.3 and 45? or just 44.3 and 45mm?
-Matt
ps, i love my 350's too... really quite handy
-Matt
ps, i love my 350's too... really quite handy
Sounds as if the 353 piston is the way to go. This is my "big" saw, my other is an echo cs330 with new bar and chain on the way, haven't used it in years but it started right up the other day when I gave it a pull. I do wish my chains would stay sharp longer on the 350, maybe my chain oil feed needs to be increased somehow, or it's just the nature of the narrow kerf chain type. not sure.
I don't know about size variants. The 350 has been my favorite tool. It has been reliable, very good power/weight match for what I need. I don't think I would be happier with any other saw, and so despite my time and money into this, it is well worth the effort if I can get 'er runnin again.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
You should try running semi-chisel if you are cutting with full chisel and having issues with chain dulling quickly. Full chisel is aggressive but wears faster, especially in abrasive conditions like dirty wood. When I'm bucking up logs that are on the ground, I will cut them almost all the way through with good sharp chain and then either switch the chain out or grab another saw with chamfer/semi-chisel to finish the cut. Crappy safety chain is good to use for this.
weimedog, like the vids btw... nice job
-Mattyo
-Mattyo
SawTroll
Information Collector
Yes, and you do of course need the right size.
The OE 346xp use a 42mm piston.
Yes.
Does this mean there are actually 4 variants?
42, 44, 44.3, 45?
SawTroll
Information Collector
Regarding bore sizes, yes. Then comes different variants of each size....
Interesting. ..maybe that was why my other saw wouldn't start...I think I was using a farmtec piston 44mm on a different am cylinder ...the piston that came with the cylinder cooked because it wasn't tight enough against the base gasket....cylinder bolts too long....I figured the cylinder was toast but maybe not...44.3 meteor ordered.....we'll see what happens!
old-cat
Fir Man
Another thing about these Husky 350s is the base adapter to plastic case mating surface is not machined flat, so it's a leak just waiting to happen! I sandpaper the adapter and file the plastic just enough to make them flat. I also am using 3 bond sealer now, which I think is much better than Yamabond.
I've got a tube of loctite 515 that I've been using...seems to work ok
I clean the base of the adapter with my random orbit sander
I clean the base of the adapter with my random orbit sander
The adjustable oiler on the equivalent Jonsered CS2150 in our possession delivers a wealth of oil. At least for the 13" 0.058" bar we are using. Be sure that the bar is sufficiently clean on both sides in the area with the two mounting holes, that's a tip I got from our Husqvarna dealer.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
I'm religious about cleaning the bar rail and oil inlet holes. The oiler just doesn't want to put a lot of oil to the bar, even set at max flow.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Could simply be that parts in the oiler are blocked or wore out.
Anyway, if you have a rim and drum on there - take a close look at the oiler gear - it isn't a 100% fit, and may wear faster than normal....
thanks for the info on chains, I certainly have plenty to learn about chains and that tidbit might do me a world of good.
I like the "grab another saw" idea personally. Much easier to sharpen chains when you aren't on the job... and/or on the clock.
