Husqvarna 357xp

[Kidneycutter]

Bought a 357xp cheap. Compression seemed a bit low on the the pull and it smoked a bit on full throttle. Took apart and both cylinder and piston look alright. Ring gap looks good, didn't measure, but looks close. Air filter was pretty grubby and thought this might be causing it to run rich. Anyway dismantled before testing this ...doh.
Measured piston and got reading of 46.85 I thought this was a 46mm bore? anybody got experienced these saws?
Thanks

 

[Huskitoter]

Assuming you have a model w\o the auto decompression. The low compression could be from a leaking decompression valve. Something to check.

I believe it matters where the diameter is measured, with the bottom being a tad bigger?

 

[Kidneycutter]

Yeah, I've just taken the the decomp out and clean - there was a lot of carbon on the piston top so maybe it was blocking the valve. Will check measurement again tomorrow - could be my cheap calliper..

 

[Kidneycutter]

Ok, I've measured the piston again approx 46.65-70 is this right?I'm having doubts whether the cylinder and pot are genuine and someone has put a big bore on it.

 

[OddSawz]

Take a picture of the cylinder.

Workshop manual shows 46.0 mm bore.

 

[Kidneycutter]

Here are a few photos, there's a mark/stamp on the inside of the piston

 

[OddSawz]

Looks like a 359 jug. I believe the 357xp cylinder has closed ports without removable covers.

 

[Kidneycutter]

Ok, so that 359 jug should be 47mm? How can I tel if this is an Oem part....this doesn't have remove able covers.
Anyway, if this is an aftermarket job what's the best way forward...without buying Oem parts!

 

[OddSawz]

Oh I couldn’t see that it was casted. I think that’s an aftermarket cylinder 359 cylinder. OEM would have covers.

 

[Kidneycutter]

Ok, o thought the casting looked cheap. No point getting a piston or ring for this - have you any advice for purchasing an aftermarket cylinder kit.
Ive got a few saws so this won't be an everyday saw.
Thanks

 

[OddSawz]

@Kidneycutter Always best to go OEM if you can. There are lots of options but I haven’t used any aftermarket yet.

 

[spudulike]

Definitely AM, it would have "A" or "B" on that small flat plate by the spark plug hole if it was OEM. Try Meteor or Hyway as AM replacements or get a good second-hand kit.

 

[psuiewalsh]

You may want to check your local dealer. 357 and 346 are pretty reasonable kits

 

[Kidneycutter]

The cylinder and piston are in good condition apart from the ring which measures 1.39mm. . I might just buy a ring and see how it runs. It may be a good aftermarket part so buying anew aftermarket kit might not change much?
The other thing is the air filter cover clips. One is broken on the thin tab which is stuck in the case ...how do I get the ting out? Thought I could solder/fuse the plastics together.

 

[cuinrearview]

You should be able to pry the tag end of the clip into the inside with your carb adjusting screwdriver. Or just grab from the outside with needle nose and yank.

As far as the top end goes, this is what I would do: check and see if it has the crank stuffers on the crank. If it does, I'd put a want ad in the post for a 46mm OEM jug and grab a Meteor piston. Or, for about twice what that will cost, pick up a new OEM top end at the dealer. If the saw is in good shape it's well worth it.

If there are no stuffers I'd keep it 47mm, whether you run the AM jug and get a good piston and ring or not is up to you. A 359 is a good running saw too with some simple mods.

 

[Kidneycutter]

Stuffers? Volume reduction in the crank? How do I test for this? What impact will having a bigger bore and stuffers have on performance. I'm not a mechanic just like fiddling with engines and cutting wood.

 

[cuinrearview]

The combination I mentioned just work better. Take some pics of the crank in the case.

 

[Kidneycutter]

Hers the crank...
G

 

[old guy]

That's a 357 full circle crank. (stuffers)

 

[Kidneycutter]

So what does that mean for the big bore? Should I get the original 46mm bore?