Husqvarna 55 p/c problems

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Could always go 46mm but i havnt really found how well these kits work on our saws. If they had good fit and acceptable squish i might consider one.
 
That's 46mm, our 55 closed port rancher was a 45mm.
I thought the 45mm piston was for a 51. I have a 98 model I used the 46mm piston in. I think I still have the old piston, if I find it I will measure.

The closed port kit I bought had .080 squish, so I wasnt satisfied with it. They did let me return it. I havent treid any of the $80 kits, but I would try one and if it wasnt like it should be, send it back. I have tried the $20 ebay ones and I didnt like them.
 
Update on my 55 closed port: I plugged the decomp and compression is at 140 psi. Measured squish and it's at .042 all the way around. The material I used for the homemade base gasket is .002 so pulling this saw down again to gain the thickness of the base gasket doesn't make sense to me. Saw fired right up and runs well. Tried to fit a bar/chain and discovered the rim sprocket is 3/8". I don't have a small mount Husky in 3/8" so need to get a rim in .325. Once the ring reseats, I may gain a little compression. Amazed the squish is that much on these saws. But....I had a husky 261 that ran very well at 125 psi and a dished piston.
 
Could always go 46mm but i havnt really found how well these kits work on our saws. If they had good fit and acceptable squish i might consider one.
Converting a closed port 55 to open port seems like a step in the wrong direction. I would try the lil red barn piston before I went to an open port saw.

Now that we have effectively hijacked the OPs thread....I apologize and how is your 55 closed port coming along ? I hope the info so far has been helpful in your rebuild.
 
I thought the 45mm piston was for a 51. I have a 98 model I used the 46mm piston in..
That very well could be. I acquired it by way of another member (on here) who picked up a "roached" saw for me because we needed a tank. After purchasing, he realized it was a closed port cyl. It was a 55 rancher but I have no idea if the cyl was original to the saw, we assumed it was.
 
Converting a closed port 55 to open port seems like a step in the wrong direction. I would try the lil red barn piston before I went to an open port saw.

Now that we have effectively hijacked the OPs thread....I apologize and how is your 55 closed port coming along ? I hope the info so far has been helpful in your rebuild.
The hijack is fine by me, you guys posting some interesting stuff. And the hyway kit i found was a 46mm closed port. But im planning on cleaning my pistion up and reusing it and just slap a new ring on and getting the cylinder cleaned up also of course.
 
20170120_202220.jpg 20170120_202950.jpg dont know why the one of the piston is upside down. Im sure there is a better way to measure the cylinder but i dont have a bore guage.
 
I have cleaned up a few cyl and reused pistons before. the cyl usually is just streaked with aluminum buildup taken from the piston. A worn piston might slap a little in the bore, but unless the piston is plum worn out it should run just fine. a new ring will bring compression back up.
 
I thought the ranchers were all open port saws? Is there a definitive way to tell, without pulling the jug?

Also I recently put a Hutzl/Farmertec 46mm kit on my grandpas old model 50. Got all the gaskets, seals and ordered a new oil pump and muffler too......all seemed to be good quality. Definitely far better quality than I expected for the approximately $40 I had in the whole thing. Jug was even tapped for a de-comp so I added that too. I did a little porting and deleted the gasket......seemed to run good.
 
I thought the ranchers were all open port saws? Is there a definitive way to tell, without pulling the jug?

Also I recently put a Hutzl/Farmertec 46mm kit on my grandpas old model 50. Got all the gaskets, seals and ordered a new oil pump and muffler too......all seemed to be good quality. Definitely far better quality than I expected for the approximately $40 I had in the whole thing. Jug was even tapped for a de-comp so I added that too. I did a little porting and deleted the gasket......seemed to run good.
No need for a decomp and they are known to fail causing a lean condition, I'd plug it.
 
View attachment 552575 View attachment 552576 dont know why the one of the piston is upside down. Im sure there is a better way to measure the cylinder but i dont have a bore guage.
Best way to measure piston fit is put it in the cylinder without rings and measure the clearance between the cylinder and skirt of the piston. If memory serves it should be around .003 ", maybe a little more. Someone with more experience will chime in I'm sure.
 
snopro, you have the orig 45mm closed port piston and cylinder. IIRC the closed port was only made for 3 yrs or so in the late 1990s before they went to the open port 46mm p/c. All the closed port 45mm closed port cylinders have the string of "+++++" on the side of the cyl...like yours and is fitted with a decomp. Rumor is the only way to tell from the outside is the number of fins that the lower left head bolt penetrates. The lack of available 45mm windowed pistons is due to the limited number of yrs the saw was produced. A search will reveal some interesting stuff about the closed port, to include one of the sites premier builders who cut windows in an open port 45mm piston to fit a closed port cyl.
 
I run my 4x 55 in 3/8. But that's mainly because I have LOTS of 3/8 b&c. I bet .325 would be faster, esp at 20". And I have a Mac D176 mount bar on 2 saws - it mounts and oils ok for my 5 cord/year use.
 
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