Husqvarna 55 Rancher - Bought it used online today

[SaludaRiver]

I just bought a 55 Rancher on ebay. Looks like a new one; listing said four years old with very little use. A couple of hours
running time in 4 years, so I need to make sure such long periods of storage did not cause a problem.
I will check it over when I get it. I will probably replace the bar and chain. What brands/type do you folks recommend
for a new 18" bar and an aggressive chain for general farm cutting (small and medium trees, mostly)?
Anything that you would recommend to check on this or any used saw would be appreciated. Any known
55 problems to work on would also be welcome.

Thanks in advance!

 

[jus2fat]

Only problem I've read of ...is the coil seems to fail prematurely??

I checked out a new one for a dude...and one on eBay was about $40
Aftermarket..not OEM...which was about $100...so not a "killer prob"

Otherwise...As far as I know...they're pretty good saws!!
Disclaimer: I'm NOT a Husky guy...so know little about them!!

J2F

 

[zogger]

I had one

Ran just fine for some years until one day the muffler rattled loose, I didn't notice the extra heat in the front because I was wearing gloves and it toasted real quick like. The muff didn't fall off, just one of the two bolts rattled off and the other was loose. Just slap missed it, didn't see it, don't know when it happened other than that day out cutting. Up till then, great saw. I just noticed it revving high in a cut so I stopped it and..that's all she wrote. Wouldn't restart. Pulled it apart, jug and slug toasted. Like I said, didn't take long either. Those muffler attachment things are ...I'm not impressed with them. Maybe on yours pull them and redo with some locktite or something.

It's in a box now, waiting for another six pack of round tuits....

So, if there is a weak point that I know about, it's there, check all the attachment bolts and screws extra careful now and then. And the tank vent has a little plastic/ceramic air filter thing, tiny, that can get plugged with fines and make it hard running to non running. Cost 50 cents to replace them. You'll see where it is in the IPL you can go download from husky. You'll need the serial number to get the correct illustrated parts list. Removing them is not hard, semi flexible shaft tucked away up under the fuel cap. You need a bent wire or something to pull it down a scosh to see it, then push it out with a long reversed ratchet extension, the 3/8ths square opening will slip over the tube, then just push it out. The little filter thing is in the end, pick it out, shove a new one in. Now that's separate from the fuel filter.

Can't think of much else, it always started, ran well, was plenty strong for a fifty, etc. I've never done any modding so I'll let the guys who have chime in there.

 

[Roanoker494]

The biggest weak link I know of is the intake system. There is a rubber intake boot and impulse grommet between the intake plate and cylinder that are known for causes air leaks. The plastic intake plate itself is a issue because the carb attaches with two long coarse thread screws that are known for stripping the threads out of the intake. Parts are still readily available from the dealer and there are also plenty of used parts available on Ebay and through many members/sponsors here. The 50, 51 and 55 all share the same design and all parts are interchangeable, with the exception of the early 50 Rancher. The only difference between the models was the 50 had a different choke system and all three had different size bores.

EDIT:
I have never had a muffler rattle loose on me, the factory nuts have a self locking design that should prevent that from happening. I have also never had a coil fail on one but that is probably because I have always kept at least one spare on hand.

 

[XPLRN]

The biggest weak link I know of is the intake system. There is a rubber intake boot and impulse grommet between the intake plate and cylinder that are known for causes air leaks. The plastic intake plate itself is a issue because the carb attaches with two long coarse thread screws that are known for stripping the threads out of the intake. Parts are still readily available from the dealer and there are also plenty of used parts available on Ebay and through many members/sponsors here. The 50, 51 and 55 all share the same design and all parts are interchangeable, with the exception of the early 50 Rancher. The only difference between the models was the 50 had a different choke system and all three had different size bores.

Any chance you could share how one would identify an "early 50 Rancher".......vs. the later ones that share the same design and parts interchangeability!?? Is there a date cut-off, some identifying design or part that would tell the difference between the early models and the later interchangeable models??

The reason I ask is one (Rancher50) is available in close proximity to me and I'd like to know how to I.D. whether it's an "early" model. Thanks!! :msp_unsure:

 

[Roanoker494]

Any chance you could share how one would identify an "early 50 Rancher".......vs. the later ones that share the same design and parts interchangeability!?? Is there a date cut-off, some identifying design or part that would tell the difference between the early models and the later interchangeable models??

The reason I ask is one (Rancher50) is available in close proximity to me and I'd like to know how to I.D. whether it's an "early" model. Thanks!! :msp_unsure:

The earliest model 50's had a white top, but since the top is interchangeable that is not the best way to tell them apart. Any model 50, that I have came across, built after 1987 has been fully interchangeable with the models 51 and 55, with the exception of the 50 having a different choke system. One of the best upgrades to a model 50 is to install the later 51/55 top cover, carb and air filter assemblies because the 50 system was a major weak point. The biggest problem with the ones built prior to 87 is the opening in the block is to small to install the later 51/55 top ends, but this can be easily overcome by making the opening slightly larger with a Dremel tool. The only other difference, that I know of, is the chain brake handles. You can not swap the handle off a early "white top" model onto a later model but you can swap the entire chain brake assembly. I recently ran into that last problem myself when I bought a new handle off Ebay.

 

[XPLRN]

The earliest model 50's had a white top, but since the top is interchangeable that is not the best way to tell them apart. Any model 50, that I have came across, built after 1987 has been fully interchangeable with the models 51 and 55, with the exception of the 50 having a different choke system. One of the best upgrades to a model 50 is to install the later 51/55 top cover, carb and air filter assemblies because the 50 system was a major weak point. The biggest problem with the ones built prior to 87 is the opening in the block is to small to install the later 51/55 top ends, but this can be easily overcome by making the opening slightly larger with a Dremel tool. The only other difference, that I know of, is the chain brake handles. You can not swap the handle off a early "white top" model onto a later model but you can swap the entire chain brake assembly. I recently ran into that last problem myself when I bought a new handle off Ebay.

Thanks Roanoker, for the in depth info on the Rancher 50!! Any idea where a guy could end up with a 51/55 top cover, carb and air filter assembly?? I did end up with the white top 50 and just haven't had any time to get it running due to my wife's gallbladder surgery yesterday. Is the bottom end/crank bearings the same from the early 50 to the later 50/51/55??

 

[ncfarmboy]

Thanks Roanoker, for the in depth info on the Rancher 50!! Any idea where a guy could end up with a 51/55 top cover, carb and air filter assembly?? I did end up with the white top 50 and just haven't had any time to get it running due to my wife's gallbladder surgery yesterday. Is the bottom end/crank bearings the same from the early 50 to the later 50/51/55??

Probably cost as much or more to upgrade carb, af, af base, choke lever and topcover than you paid for saw. Used TC $20, carb$20+ carb kit, AF $10, AF base $12, Choke lever $8. If you do it, there are two different AF and bases for 55 one snaps on the other has a screw to attach AF to base. This is the better one as I have had the snap on ones come loose while running saw. The crank bearings ar the same in both models. I have a bunch of the 50 AF. Got them in a "lot" of parts I bought. I would send for $1.00 ea + postage. The problem with the 50 filter is it looses ridigity and choke sucks closed.
Hope the wife heals quickly!!!
Shep

 

[XPLRN]

Probably cost as much or more to upgrade carb, af, af base, choke lever and topcover than you paid for saw. Used TC $20, carb$20+ carb kit, AF $10, AF base $12, Choke lever $8. If you do it, there are two different AF and bases for 55 one snaps on the other has a screw to attach AF to base. This is the better one as I have had the snap on ones come loose while running saw. The crank bearings ar the same in both models. I have a bunch of the 50 AF. Got them in a "lot" of parts I bought. I would send for $1.00 ea + postage. The problem with the 50 filter is it looses ridigity and choke sucks closed.
Hope the wife heals quickly!!!
Shep

Thanks, Shep, for the well wishes on my wife's healing.......today was kind of a turning point and she is definitely feeling notably better......even had some ice cream to celebrate!!

Thanks also for all the information regarding the Rancher 50 carb retro stuff.......and good to know the bottom ends are the same. You are correct that given the prices you mentioned it would cost more than I've got in the saw!! Guess I'll need to keep my eyes open for a donor 55 saw!! I'll PM you and we can figure out the AF stuff from there.