Crank properly centred?
Husqvarna Sticky!
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Homer6679
ArboristSite Operative
I thought it was, do I need to take it all apart to center it or can I just tap it into place?
Does that peice with the three bolt holes have wires on it? It looks like the generator for heated grips.
Homer6679
ArboristSite Operative
Nah it’s a spacer I’m assuming for a husky 61 I just pictured it for reference. The flywheel on the 272 is extremely close to the cylinder and is running on the seal. I was curious if there was a spacer I'm missing on the 272. It’s a 272xp not xpg
No such thing as a flywheel spacer from what I've seen, seal may need to be driven in a bit more though.
Hello. Im looking for an aftermarket muffler option for my 575xp. Oem is expensive. I made a Custom muffler and it serves its purpose but it's very loud. I was just curious if maybe a 372 or other model would fit?
No words needed. This one will clean up like new.
Husky folks in the know know.
Mahle no decomp cyl.
Husky folks in the know know.
Mahle no decomp cyl.
2009. That’s as clean as it will ever be while I own it.
Just not a saw detailer.
No rash from a throwing chain ever it appears. Not even chain catcher.
Now to go test it out some more and get it looking like a saw supposed to look like.
Just not a saw detailer.
No rash from a throwing chain ever it appears. Not even chain catcher.
Now to go test it out some more and get it looking like a saw supposed to look like.
Stock psi with gasket.
Homer6679
ArboristSite Operative
Got this husky in a group of saws, any idea what model it is? I’m thinking 266se since the tag has an “e” on it. Let me know what y’all think.
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Looks like a 181 or 281?
Looks like a 181SE
Part numbers on the flywheel are consistent with 181/281/288... my guess is 181SE
Mean saw. The guy who "modded" the cover should be up on molestation charges
I have a 181SE and never noticed those numbers on the flywheel. Interesting. I been having an issue with the original black case grounded kill switch. The new red ones don’t fit right and I would have to drill the case to ground. Anyone know where I could get an original switch new or used?
Homer
I’ve measured bore size with popsicle stick through exh port method and it works good enough to confirm piston size. My 181 came to me in pieces and piston was the thick ring type. Suppose someone wanted more cooling on yours. I did the hyway kit in 288 size. Gets tight under the cover with the extra 2mm. Great saw. Antivibe sleeves were rotted and oil pump was full of junk. Stenciled original bar.
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lincolnscott7
ArboristSite Member
Hello folks, new to the autotune Husqvarna's.
Anyhow I have a 545 here that has been such an absolute pain in the rear. The saw had supposedly sat for a year or two possibly and would only now start with much fuss usually flooding itself out in seconds.
So I went over it and found a busted primer bulb and replaced that with a new one. Put in a new spark plug, flushed out all the old fuel, made sure the filter was in place and everything else seemed to be in order. Good strong spark and the decomp appears to be functioning correctly? (more on this in a moment).
So now I have only gotten it to fire on two separate occasions. Both of these were when the saw had been sitting for a day or more and would only start and struggle to idle while acting sluggish (very rich feeling) and then die. After this on both occasions that it did start it would not ever fire again after that little run. Fuel would just spray out of the decomp when it was pressed during starting (is it normal to see excess fuel spray out of the decomp or do I possibly have a leak?) Then fuel would just start running / spraying out the exhaust and I have had to remove and drain the muffler now several times as it would fill full with fuel. I have even once removed the air filter to see the entire throttle body full of fuel there too, totally submerging the choke plate. Then if you hit the throttle all of that fuel would just pour down into the crankcase..
So WHY is this stupid thing asking for so much damn fuel all the time?? I'm hesitant to open up the throttle body (carb) as I have been told there isn't much to service there and I don't want to tear it open just to have to replace the gaskets if there's nothing I can clean or check? It's all automatic?
Sounds like this is dealer special since there the only ones who can work on these damn autotune ********. Any recommendations on going that route also and what to say or ask for?
Thanks good folks. I sure do appreciate the help. This one has had me cussing already haha.
Anyhow I have a 545 here that has been such an absolute pain in the rear. The saw had supposedly sat for a year or two possibly and would only now start with much fuss usually flooding itself out in seconds.
So I went over it and found a busted primer bulb and replaced that with a new one. Put in a new spark plug, flushed out all the old fuel, made sure the filter was in place and everything else seemed to be in order. Good strong spark and the decomp appears to be functioning correctly? (more on this in a moment).
So now I have only gotten it to fire on two separate occasions. Both of these were when the saw had been sitting for a day or more and would only start and struggle to idle while acting sluggish (very rich feeling) and then die. After this on both occasions that it did start it would not ever fire again after that little run. Fuel would just spray out of the decomp when it was pressed during starting (is it normal to see excess fuel spray out of the decomp or do I possibly have a leak?) Then fuel would just start running / spraying out the exhaust and I have had to remove and drain the muffler now several times as it would fill full with fuel. I have even once removed the air filter to see the entire throttle body full of fuel there too, totally submerging the choke plate. Then if you hit the throttle all of that fuel would just pour down into the crankcase..
So WHY is this stupid thing asking for so much damn fuel all the time?? I'm hesitant to open up the throttle body (carb) as I have been told there isn't much to service there and I don't want to tear it open just to have to replace the gaskets if there's nothing I can clean or check? It's all automatic?
Sounds like this is dealer special since there the only ones who can work on these damn autotune ********. Any recommendations on going that route also and what to say or ask for?
Thanks good folks. I sure do appreciate the help. This one has had me cussing already haha.
Try this:
The cut under load has to be continuous until the autotune has reset.
Thanks to afleetcommand and spike60 for the video.
Carburetor still needs rebuilt.
