Huztl MS660

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Wow, i can't imagine a delete plug. Mines extremely hard to hold to the ground during a pull without the decompression. If it leaks you could always just use some teflon tape or liquid gasket.

I bought 36" and 24" woodland pro bars. Then a crosscut and a rip chain for each. We're about to take down eight 100' pines threatening the house we recently bought. The base of the larger ones are about 5' diameter. Then I have a handful of 100' oaks and cherries that are either already down or have died and need to come down. The rip chains are for slabbing those ones up. Looks like the tracking slip from baileys predicts them to come in on the 10th.

I'm pretty sure all the rubbers were dupes, but could be wrong. That screw bugs me though. It's not an AV screw (those were course screws for plastic). This one is a small machine screw that's similar to the 4 that hold down the white plastic shroud around the clutch drum. I haven't load tested the brake nor have I given it any bar oil yet, so I may inadvertently find it's place afterall. Btw, the brake spring only took a couple tries with a regular screwdriver. Grinding a hollow would certainly make it easier, but don't go messing up a driver you care about just for it. Try without first (and with safety glasses).

Forgetting to double-nut the stud bolt was a bonehead move. After that was squared away I used some red locktite. Didn't see much reason those would ever need to come back out. I didn't add locktite anywhere else since the screws already had some blue on them.
 
Wow, i can't imagine a delete plug. Mines extremely hard to hold to the ground during a pull without the decompression.

I use the drop start method, handle bar in left hand starter handle in right hand, drop and pull at the same time and make damned sure that you've got enough grip to keep control of the saw. The weight of the saw starts the saw.

I can see where a decomp valve helps if you're trying to start from the ground or pinching it between your legs (shudder)...I can't imagine trying to pin one of these bloody things to the ground to start, or to squeeze one between your thighs like an MMA fighter putting someone in an arm bar.
 
Wow, i can't imagine a delete plug. Mines extremely hard to hold to the ground during a pull without the decompression. If it leaks you could always just use some teflon tape or liquid gasket.

I bought 36" and 24" woodland pro bars. Then a crosscut and a rip chain for each. We're about to take down eight 100' pines threatening the house we recently bought. The base of the larger ones are about 5' diameter. Then I have a handful of 100' oaks and cherries that are either already down or have died and need to come down. The rip chains are for slabbing those ones up. Looks like the tracking slip from baileys predicts them to come in on the 10th.

I'm pretty sure all the rubbers were dupes, but could be wrong. That screw bugs me though. It's not an AV screw (those were course screws for plastic). This one is a small machine screw that's similar to the 4 that hold down the white plastic shroud around the clutch drum. I haven't load tested the brake nor have I given it any bar oil yet, so I may inadvertently find it's place afterall. Btw, the brake spring only took a couple tries with a regular screwdriver. Grinding a hollow would certainly make it easier, but don't go messing up a driver you care about just for it. Try without first (and with safety glasses).

Forgetting to double-nut the stud bolt was a bonehead move. After that was squared away I used some red locktite. Didn't see much reason those would ever need to come back out. I didn't add locktite anywhere else since the screws already had some blue on them.
The 30 seconds that I had mine running before I sheared the flywheel woodruff key made it absolutely clear that a decompression valve is required! It took many pulls to get it to fire the first time. During the pull, the decomp valve would seat about half way through the pull. It felt like the recoil was at the end of the rope. There is no turning over my 56mm with 0.023 squish without decomp. (2-3 days for a new key from my local dealer. I started on my 372 kit that purchased from Huztl at the same time as the ms660. I didn't get very far...all the bolts/fasteners were missing from the kit.)

In regards to the left over bolt. Did you install the upper rear AV on the clutch side? It is a machine thread. I completely assembled mine before I figured out what the small round AV was for. I had to disassemble the handle from the body and carb boot to get this sucker between the fuel tank and the flywheel side case.
 
i had to remove the cover and air filter to widen the spark plug hole and i saw the fuel hose is wet, not at the carb barb but at the fuel tank where it connects to the barb you clamped. do I need a clamp on that end or is it a leaky o ring entering the tank? and what kina clamp is that small?

I also had an issue with the fuel line from the tank to the carb leaking at the barb on the carb, I put a small spring clamp on it and fixed that problem right up....
 
What's the best way to store these tool set.? Do they make individual cases for each side for these mounting tools? I saw where davhul was using a clear bag, clears good. Any other ideas. As I collect and invest in them individual cases appeal me because they are stinking expensive. I have tool boxes.
 

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They don't make a case that I'm aware of. But they do make a tool box. Not cheap either but nothing they have is. IMG_1966.JPGIMG_1967.JPG


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What's the best way to store these tool set.? Do they make individual cases for each side for these mounting tools? I saw where davhul was using a clear bag, clears good. Any other ideas. As I collect and invest in them individual cases appeal me because they are stinking expensive. I have tool boxes.

I'm keeping mine in a ziplock bag on my workbench for now. I have 0 free space in any of my tool drawers...oh darn, time to buy a new tool chest...
 
In regards to the left over bolt. Did you install the upper rear AV on the clutch side? It is a machine thread. I completely assembled mine before I figured out what the small round AV was for. I had to disassemble the handle from the body and carb boot to get this sucker between the fuel tank and the flywheel side case.

Ah.. yea, there was an av grommet in the left over bag too. Looking at the breakapart I can see roughly where it was supposed to go. I got the odd shaped one near the top, but missed the round one near the bottom. This thing seems to vibrate a ton compared to my 450. I think I read that it will lessen as the saw breaks in a bit - i sure hope so.

Anyone else missing that plastic insert that goes into the brake handle connection? I didn't use the rubber piece there either.


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And the grommets holding down the top cover.

There are 3 different firms of the av system, they sent the firm ones that has to account for a large portion of vibration
 
The grommets you talk about on the top cover are brass inserts that keep the screw from pulling through the plastic.


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Don't go by this part # there's 4 sizes. But there is different buffers. IMG_1968.JPG


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Davhul tool chest there is missing a place for the puller. I guess a zip lock is in my future too until I find something specfic

I'm keeping mine in a ziplock bag on my workbench for now. I have 0 free space in any of my tool drawers...oh darn, time to buy a new tool chest...
 
The kits just went up on their site $186 without shipping


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Ouch, Knew it was coming. Bet the ones that did that not ship are are risk

I read it as +186. Not end of world. They came off vacation to raise price.

Wait a minute, to be fair they did not offer the foil before they promised to fix that, if they made other improvements, it's worth it. I paid 10$ just for foil

The kits just went up on their site $186 without shipping. Hope not.


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