Hydrualic cylinder question

[wrench191]

I asked the question at a hydrualic forum and this was their answer

Sometimes yes, sometimes no..the rod may be dimensioned to fit the particular design with extra length when retracted.Even if it did have a spacer inside to limit stroke,you'll have to remove the inner nut that holds the piston onto the rod shaft to get the spacer off.Most often,it's torqued on there with a special hydraulic machine with 750+ft/lbs or more torque on a special cylinder assembly bench.Simply put,unless you take it to a hydraulic shop to have that done,you're NOT getting that nut off unless you burn it off with a torch.


I may just leave it at 25 inches of travel.My wood furnes take a piece 36 inch. I useally
cut 30inch pieces. Could I make the H beam to accept a 30inch piece and if it doesnt spit at 25inches of travel use another piece to push it through?

 

[kubotakid]

Wrench191, a hydraulic cylinder is at its weakest when fully extended, especially when worn, and alittle loose, many crane cylinders had collers to keep them from fully extending into that weak point, sounds like yours has a spacer, It only needs to be 2-4 inches to make a big difference in the stability of a cylinder,.. Eric

 

[CJ1]

I asked the question at a hydrualic forum and this was their answer

Sometimes yes, sometimes no..the rod may be dimensioned to fit the particular design with extra length when retracted.Even if it did have a spacer inside to limit stroke,you'll have to remove the inner nut that holds the piston onto the rod shaft to get the spacer off.Most often,it's torqued on there with a special hydraulic machine with 750+ft/lbs or more torque on a special cylinder assembly bench.Simply put,unless you take it to a hydraulic shop to have that done,you're NOT getting that nut off unless you burn it off with a torch.


I may just leave it at 25 inches of travel.My wood furnes take a piece 36 inch. I useally
cut 30inch pieces. Could I make the H beam to accept a 30inch piece and if it doesnt spit at 25inches of travel use another piece to push it through?

And the nut is usually locktighted and could be staked. With all that being said we have not had one we could not get off either with a impact or a 3/4 breaker bar and cheeter pipe. The problem is usually the gland nut in the barrel. CJ

 

[JeffHK454]

I might have missed this but is the cylinder tube long enough to have a stroke limiter on the rod?

If you can live with stroke just cut the rod off and call it good.

 

[wrench191]

The cylinder is about 36 inches long but the stroke is 25 inches.If I thought it would'nt
be too hard I would take it apart and see but it sounds like it might not be worth it.Like I said I may just leave it at 25 inches of travel.My wood furnaces takes a piece 36 inch. I useally
cut 30inch pieces. Could I make the H beam to accept a 30inch piece and if it doesnt spit at 25inches of travel use another piece to push it through?

 

[JeffHK454]

I'd pull it apart and see if it can be adapted to fully meet your needs..I wouldn't do all this fabricating and expense of running such a large cyl if it didn't do just what I wanted.

You wouldn't need to pull the piston to get a extension limiter off. When I've built cylinders with limit sleeves It was nothing more than a board tube with a light press fit ..heated it and slid it on.

If you can get the limiter out and the ram cut down you'll have a bulldozer of a splitter that's for sure!

 

[Hydro!]

I believe the "3 inch ram" is unnecessary information.

The size of the rod is actually important because a larger rod makes the return speed faster. It takes less fluid to fill the rod end. I've done custom 5" bore log splitter cylinders made with with 3" or 3.5" rods, just for cycle speed.

That is going to be a monster splitter. It's hard to say about the spacer. Sometime spacers are put in to strengthen the side loads on a cylinder as it takes some of the pressure off the cylinder head. Looks like you will just have to open it up to see.