I finally got my 07S!!!

[Lakeside53]

heck, Brad would be over 60 if he had to wait that long :greenchainsaw:

 

[belgian]

Your bearings and seals are how old? and you ran the saw in wood for how long to determine "perfect"... lolol , oh well... each to his own. I guess "restore" means something different to each of us. If I intended to keep a saw forever, I know what I'd do. :greenchainsaw:

I am with Brad on this one, Andy, but it prooves also how solid your saw tech reputation is. My experience with these older Stihls is that they seem to run forever. On all the 30 year or older Stihls that I brought back to life, I have not replaced a single set of bearings yet. Most of these saws were firewood cutters only and have not seen the pro logging abuse you see daily in your neck of the PNW. And these older Stihls were slow runners compared to todays saws, probably oversized enineering as well.
Looking at the collection Brad has, there's also little doubt he will use it intensively to cut wood...

 

[rxe]

Saw pr0n....

Here's something to keep you interested:

In the post box now, I don't think it will go anywhere over the holiday period. You'll get it end of next week at best.

 

[rxe]

Oh, and I fixed the fuel filter as well.

I had a ferret in the parts saw - and I too have the "spring in a rubber tube arrangement". If it is anything like the ones on 070s, there is meant to be a bit of gauze over this bit. Invariably this has ripped or disintegrated.

2 seconds with the snips, and the tube is converted to take a standard filter:

 

[blsnelling]

Here's something to keep you interested:

In the post box now, I don't think it will go anywhere over the holiday period. You'll get it end of next week at best.

Now that's what I'm talking about! You are da man! I'll be spraying the urethane tonight or tomorrow. That means assembly will begin early next week. Waiting on your parts won't hold me up too much since I will be making the base gasket myself. Thanks again.

Andy, I haven't yet contacted Bryce about a handle since I've not yet heard from JimL. Hopefully he has a 07S handle and just sent me the wrong one. Fortunatly that won't hold up assembly either. I'll b happy with either a half or full wrap. The original was a full, and the one from Jim is a half. Doesn't matter.

 

[blsnelling]

I see you even threw a grub screw in there

 

[Lakeside53]

I am with Brad on this one, Andy, but it prooves also how solid your saw tech reputation is. My experience with these older Stihls is that they seem to run forever. On all the 30 year or older Stihls that I brought back to life, I have not replaced a single set of bearings yet. Most of these saws were firewood cutters only and have not seen the pro logging abuse you see daily in your neck of the PNW. And these older Stihls were slow runners compared to todays saws, probably oversized enineering as well.
Looking at the collection Brad has, there's also little doubt he will use it intensively to cut wood...

Maybe just my age.. I no long go for immediate gratification! I'd want to know it would work in in another 30 years. My wife once said "we" should restore a 1949 ford truck (grandfather's) that's been parked in Montana in her bothers barn for 30 years. But.. she mentions it less and less now - knowing full well each nut, bolt and screw would be carefully removed and worked on..

 

[blsnelling]

I fully understand your position, and appreciate it. However, that level of detail would take the fun out of it for me.

I used to have a car I would not drive in the rain. I would park it if it started to rain. I swore to never do that again.

If I restored these saws to perfect condition, I'd have so much time in them I couldn't stand to enjoy them. This saw is already in excellent running condition and there's no chance of me ever wearing this saw out. If I were to ever need to split the cases, I begin by taking a razor blade around the case split.

On another note,what color is the bar cover supposed to be? Mine is grey and is not a repaint. However, the 07S on Mike Acres site is red. What's up with that.

 

[blsnelling]

Maybe just my age.. I no long go for immediate gratification!

Andy, I doubt you're really that much older than me. I'll be 40 in July. BTW, did I ever thank you for the chain connector links? Thanks!

 

[Lakeside53]

LOLOLOL

You "could" be my son...:greenchainsaw:


It's o.k BRAD 40 is the new 30

 

[rxe]

I decided to split the case of my 07S parts saw - the oil seals leak anyway, so if I ever fix it up, I'll need to get in there (I don't fancy my chances with a seal puller on 50 year old seals).

Nothing frightening - quite a lot of rubbish and rust around the bearings, but apart from that it looks pretty good.

Now, onto seals and bearings. (This is probably a Lake question..... )

Is there anything special about these seals and bearings? I have found sites that supply seals to pretty much any bore, depth and diameter. The 07S has a crank diameter of 15mm, and a rough measure of the case diameter (clearly I'd do it properly before ordering) is 24mm. So I slug this into a site and get:

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p7....html?osCsid=7718761e7064bf17d41971f226c99230

Is it really as easy as this? For bearings, using the same dimensions, I get:

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p5...oove+Ball+Bearing+15x24x5mm/product_info.html

I'm hoping that there is nothing fancy with these old saws, and that any old bearing will replace 1960s technology.


Edit:

see you even threw a grub screw in there

I made it...just for you.... OK, "made" is overstating it a bit. I cut the end off a bolt and cut a slot in the end of it.....

 

[Lakeside53]

On these old saws.. pretty much... Just make sure you get C3 fit bearing - not "normal". You need the additional clearance for thermal and case squeeze. I also like the rivited steel cages, but poly would be fine

However.. what are the markings on the original bearings?

Your seals are pricey over there. You can likely get them from a stihl dealer cheaper


... and as for that '60's technology... with bearings it was pretty good....

 

[rxe]

Yet again, Lake demonstrates the knowledge...

I pressed the bearings out of the case by pressing on the inner race - it didn't feel good, but the bearings are pretty rusty so who cares about the niceties.

They are marked: EH Switzerland 6302. Someone has ground on (by hand) "C3" after the 6302. Yay Lake!

So, more in hope than confidence, I bang "6302" into the Simply Bearings site. I mean, these numbers date from the 60s, they can't possibly still work. I get this:

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p6....html?osCsid=7718761e7064bf17d41971f226c99230

Perfect. £3 each - $6. Bargain.

Close inspection of the oil seal reveals that the dimensions are written on it: 15 bore x 24 diameter x 7mm thick. Simply Bearings has a selection here:

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/a...m1=15&term2=24&term3=7&x=0&y=0&term4=Oil+Seal

I will try and find the difference between the R21 and R23 versions. The viton one is expensive as Lake says....but $2 for the cheaper ones is pretty fine.

Edit: Now that I have pulled the other set of bearings, I realise that they are different.

Clutch side: 6032 C3
Ignition side: 6004 C3

The 6004 can be just as easily found as the 6032.

The oil seals are the same on both sides.

 

[Lakeside53]

The numbers have worked since before WW2!

Also any "branded" ( not Chinese generics..) will work if it's a 6302 C3...

 

[blsnelling]

Unfortunately JimL doesn't have a 07 handle. I've sent a message to Bryce, so hopefully he'll reply soon. If not, Andy....... Full-wrap, half-wrap, whatever. Intact rubber would be nice. Ok, I'm dreaming. These handles are >40 years old.

 

[rxe]

Done a bit more ferreting on the seals.

Mine is marked:KACO DF in addition to the dimensions. Looking here:

http://www.supaseal.co.uk/oilseals.htm

Shows that KACO DF translates into "R4", which in English means "metal case, single lip". For an oil seal, I would guess that it doesn't matter whether the case is rubber covered or metal covered (indeed on cars it seems to be random for the same seal), so I will go with the R21 version.

Right, the 07S Parts Saw will be re-bearinged and sealed for the princely sum of £10 ($20).

(I hope someone finds this useful one day....)

 

[Gumnuts]

Eh me hearties -
07s 07s 07s 07s - just mentioning them to stay on track
Well done Brad - CAD & CE ( chainsaw envy )

Tried to rep you again RXE - for making chainsaw world a better place to live in.

Andy- can we hope to see your handy work on the Bridgeport
................ I'll still call ya young fella

 

[rxe]

I just remember buying my first 07S on a whim (it cost £20), and then finding that it was impossible to get any parts for it. That led me here...and I started to find sources of parts and learn new techniques. I've learned a lot here - just trying to put some info back in so that people find it a bit easier in future.

 

[BaldSawRunner]

You mean like a 660 P&C hiding under the shroud of a 07S?

Yeah...something like that

 

[Lakeside53]

Done a bit more ferreting on the seals.

Mine is marked:KACO DF in addition to the dimensions. Looking here:

http://www.supaseal.co.uk/oilseals.htm

Shows that KACO DF translates into "R4", which in English means "metal case, single lip". For an oil seal, I would guess that it doesn't matter whether the case is rubber covered or metal covered (indeed on cars it seems to be random for the same seal), so I will go with the R21 version.

Right, the 07S Parts Saw will be re-bearinged and sealed for the princely sum of £10 ($20).

(I hope someone finds this useful one day....)

Brad will but he won't do it :greenchainsaw: