I had some fuel questions........

[quotejso2]

I'd call some husqy techs in sweden

 

[Definitive Dave]

Only problem is that Stihl recommended 50:1 before the EPA was in existence. So, if they recommend using that ratio before any emissions need, you can bet your arse that's what they think is best for the saw cause you know as well as I do they'd rather sell more oil than less. Or course, you can always listen to your shade tree engineer friends who spend more of their time drunk than they do designing saws. That's your prerogative. ;-)

Gotta call SHENANIGANS on this:
in tech bulletin T.43.86 Stihl specifies mixing at 1:40 with Stihl two cycle oil and 1:25 with any other brand
Not until T.2.98 (12 YEARS later) does Stihl call for mixing at 1:50 and specifically say this was done to meet the brand new EPA standard for Emission Control Standards.

T.19.95 shows the mufflers and carbs being dumbed down for OSHA noise standards
DDave

 

[Full Chisel]

That's kind of funny. One of the techs even responded to my muffler mod question.

He did say and admit that a MM would in-fact increase performance.......AND fuel economy. Not sure that I've ever heard anyone on this forum say that.

I'd have a hard time believing a muffler mod would increase fuel economy...more exhaust out, more fuel in.

 

[Rockjock]

Gotta call SHENANIGANS on this:
in tech bulletin T.43.86 Stihl specifies mixing at 1:40 with Stihl two cycle oil and 1:25 with any other brand
Not until T.2.98 (12 YEARS later) does Stihl call for mixing at 1:50 and specifically say this was done to meet the brand new EPA standard for Emission Control Standards.

T.19.95 shows the mufflers and carbs being dumbed down for OSHA noise standards
DDave

My stihl 023, bought in 1993 states 50:1 regular grade fuel. ( pre ethanol ) At the dealership I am at we tell all customers that E- free fuel is the only fuel they should run. The sea of mowers in the back for repair can attest to the fact that carbs are getting gummed up big time. I can not speak for Stihl USA but Stihl Canada stresses E-Free fuel and for us that is Premium fuel. Being cheap for the sake of a dollar or 2 is simply madness.

That 023 runs only 50:1 and has cut a insane amount of firewood for me and then for its present owner. So that is a good testimonial IMO. YMMV but mine is spot on.

 

[burnses]

a oil and a fuel thread all in one wow! I have my own thoughts on av gas for high rpm engines 2 or 4 stroke and mix ratios but no reason to go there because it has all been said! I do run non e small engine fuel for my saws by any brand really but I think what I have now is vp......I just don't want any problems and want good fuel....I stopped using stihl ultra because it was making me feel bad after cutting for awhile....using the blue husky stuff now...all good

 

[Definitive Dave]

Ethanol is all we have here and canned gas. Ethanl sucks but we gotta live with it.
The bulletins are in reference to the 1122 series so a lot bigger saw than an 025 and the 40:1 bulletin is from 1986. The EPA is a US thing that started certifying small engines for sale in the US in 97/98.
the 87 bulletin says using leaded or unleaded is fine with the Stihl mix at 40:1
Dave

 

[1Alpha1]

Gotta call SHENANIGANS on this:
in tech bulletin T.43.86 Stihl specifies mixing at 1:40 with Stihl two cycle oil and 1:25 with any other brand
Not until T.2.98 (12 YEARS later) does Stihl call for mixing at 1:50 and specifically say this was done to meet the brand new EPA standard for Emission Control Standards.

T.19.95 shows the mufflers and carbs being dumbed down for OSHA noise standards
DDave

You know by posting what you said, you're gonna give ole spacemule a complex, the kind he won't be able to deal with.

 

[Definitive Dave]

ol spacemule has like 18 odd thousand posts, I'm guessing he can take it just fine
heck I make more mistakes than that before 6 AM most days
Dave

 

[MustangMike]

For years I also ran regular gas and 50:1 dino in my 044, but keep in mind gas had lead in it then, and lead is a lubricant. That is why they had to make all the valves in car engines harder when lead free fuel came out.

I think most stock saws will run fine on 50:1, but 40:1 gives you more room for error, and IMO should be run in all ported saws.

The book that came with my 362 C says that higher octane gas runs cooler, so I run 93. I don't buy e-free, but try to buy it at a high volume station and mix it as soon as you get it (the 2 cycle oil has stabilizers). I have updated my older saws with the "green" Stihl fuel lines, and I try to not let them sit too long w/o being run, but I always leave them fully fueled.

At gas stations that don't have high volume, the e can separate, and the percentage can change (bad gas can also nix your car engine).

IMO, a small muff mod may allow a saw to run more efficiently, but a large mod will likely waste fuel (reminder, this is just my opinion).

 

[Idahonative]

I'd have a hard time believing a muffler mod would increase fuel economy...more exhaust out, more fuel in.

Stuffed up muff equals more resistance. Overcoming more resistance requires a certain amount of energy (fuel). But hey, I'm not a manly man like you so what do I know.

 

[procarbine2k1]

Use what works for you. The fuel/ oil debate will never end, and you will have varying opinions from different shops, the same as you will on here. There is no benefit to your OPE running 50:1 over 40:1, I can tell ya that.

 

[1Alpha1]

Use what works for you. The fuel/ oil debate will never end, and you will have varying opinions from different shops, the same as you will on here. There is no benefit to your OPE running 50:1 over 40:1, I can tell ya that.

I agree with almost all you said.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

readin and learnin is livin

 

[spacemule]

Gotta call SHENANIGANS on this:
in tech bulletin T.43.86 Stihl specifies mixing at 1:40 with Stihl two cycle oil and 1:25 with any other brand
Not until T.2.98 (12 YEARS later) does Stihl call for mixing at 1:50 and specifically say this was done to meet the brand new EPA standard for Emission Control Standards.

T.19.95 shows the mufflers and carbs being dumbed down for OSHA noise standards
DDave

Shhh! Don't confuse me with facts!

 

[Ironworker]

I try and rotate gas as much as possible and every once in a while I'll get a can of premix. Personally I don't think oil ratios make a big difference, I try and keep it at 40:1 but sometimes I'll get a can of 50:1 and never notice anything. Two stroke engines are very simple and forgiving.

 

[Babaganoosh]

I'd like to run E free but there's no stations close to me. I use 93 octane in my splitter and push mower. Ride on mower is diesel or I'd run premium in that as well.

I buy 5 gallons at a clip and make my chainsaw mix (40:1) 1 gallon at a time from that. I also make my kombi mix (50:1) from that one gallon at a time. The kombi is a 4mix and they say not to use extra oil for that. I'd love it to run at 40:1 so I could keep one can of mix instead of 2. I've thought of running my 036 on the 50:1 and although I'm probably an idiot for not, but I do trust the big guys on here who work on and port saws regularly and all seem to recommend 40:1.

If the canned fuels were cheaper I'd use them but 93 e10 has been working for me so far. Then again I regularly rotate my fuel and store equipment properly. If I run into any fuel related issues I will be open to changing my mind, until then I'll cross my fingers.

 

[HuskStihl]

Running e10 for years as that's all we got. Never had a saw/mower etc problem. Only bad gas I remember buying was premium, so I usually buy regular or 89. Carb kit is like 10 bucks. I'd have to need a new kit every week for 100ll or canned to make financial sense

 

[Mad Professor]

Running e10 for years as that's all we got. Never had a saw/mower etc problem. Only bad gas I remember buying was premium, so I usually buy regular or 89. Carb kit is like 10 bucks. I'd have to need a new kit every week for 100ll or canned to make financial sense

E10 nearly ruined a carb on my 1972 Ford LGT 145 mower. Never had the carb apart before E10. Have had to take it apart yearly to remove the snot since. The same with a vintage troy Built tiller. I have started to run/drain things dry since.

Last time I tried to remove the brass main jet on the mower carb, the aluminum treads in the carb body were getting corroded and I nearly could not get the jet out, the jets are NLA from Kohler and carb kits are just bowl gaskets and needle seats. You can still buy a new carb for ~ $250. When I got the jet out I chased the threads with a tap.

If you think the newer carbs are immune to this, remember they are still made of aluminum bodies, and E10 with rot them.

Thankfully a local station just started selling non-E10 91.

 

[yodayoda]

Only problem is that Stihl recommended 50:1 before the EPA was in existence. So, if they recommend using that ratio before any emissions need, you can bet your arse that's what they think is best for the saw cause you know as well as I do they'd rather sell more oil than less. Or course, you can always listen to your shade tree engineer friends who spend more of their time drunk than they do designing saws. That's your prerogative. ;-)

Thats the best post I've read in awhile. Thanks for the chuckle space

 

[yodayoda]

I am always amazed at the people that want the best of the best working on their stuff. people who live and breath the product, 50 years experience. But ***** and moan about how much the dealer charges, expects the tech working on it to be doing it as a hobby, not actually making a decent living.
This goes for most of the trades.