I need a little 029 advice

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The 029 came out with the .325, there are many threads about changing over to a full 3/8.

Within the .325 camp, you have a choice of 7 or 8 tooth sprocket.


What is the reason behind a 7 or 8 tooth sprocket? effectively give you higher or lower gearing? Does that make much difference in performance? I suppose I can probably find that info on a thread somewhere lol...I'll get to looking!

Thanks for all the info guys!!! Its a big help
 
What is the reason behind a 7 or 8 tooth sprocket? effectively give you higher or lower gearing? Does that make much difference in performance? I suppose I can probably find that info on a thread somewhere lol...I'll get to looking!

Thanks for all the info guys!!! Its a big help

90% of the people wouldn't notice the difference
 
The difference should be noticable, as it could be compared to biking up a hill in 1st or 5th gear, if you have ever been on a bike with 10 speeds
 
Sorry, I am thinking that many off the internet kids have never rode a bicycle, or even walked out into the back yard without a lawyer and sunscreen...
 
Okay so what i think yall call the drum is part number 1125 160 2900 A which appears to be for a .325 8T sprocket (anyone verify that)

But my sprocket is a 3/8 7 tooth

Are those made to go together?

Thanks!!!
 
Here is what I found on my mediaCAT for that series


1125 007 1002 - Rim sprocket kit 3/8" 7T
0000 642 1231 - Rim sprocket 3/8" 7T

1125 007 1000 - Rim sprocket kit 0.325" 8T
0000 642 1234 - Rim sprocket 0.325" 8T

1125 007 1001 - Rim sprocket kit 0.325" 7T
0000 642 1236 - Rim sprocket 0.325" 7T
 
Here is what I found on my mediaCAT for that series


1125 007 1002 - Rim sprocket kit 3/8" 7T
0000 642 1231 - Rim sprocket 3/8" 7T

1125 007 1000 - Rim sprocket kit 0.325" 8T
0000 642 1234 - Rim sprocket 0.325" 8T

1125 007 1001 - Rim sprocket kit 0.325" 7T
0000 642 1236 - Rim sprocket 0.325" 7T




Thanks for the info man! I dont see a part number on the sprocket (front nor back) but ill assume its the 3/8 7T that uve got listem which means it goes with the piece behind it (yall call it a disk or drum dont ya?)
 
Thanks for the info man! I dont see a part number on the sprocket (front nor back) but ill assume its the 3/8 7T that uve got listem which means it goes with the piece behind it (yall call it a disk or drum dont ya?)

Sorry I just noticed something those numbers are for MS 290 310 390 series

I don't know if 029 series is the same
 
What is the reason behind a 7 or 8 tooth sprocket? effectively give you higher or lower gearing? Does that make much difference in performance? I suppose I can probably find that info on a thread somewhere lol...I'll get to looking!

Thanks for all the info guys!!! Its a big help

You seem to understand machines. I think you're gonna do fine working on saws. And you've discovered the search function. Welcome.
 
Thanks for the info man! I dont see a part number on the sprocket (front nor back) but ill assume its the 3/8 7T that uve got listem which means it goes with the piece behind it (yall call it a disk or drum dont ya?)

The diff b/tw 3/8 & .325 is the centers of the links - if your sprocket is 3/8" that's designed for a 3/8" (.375)chain,

if you run a .325 chain, it will try to bind up in the sprocket, same vice-versa.

The gauge (.043, .050, .063) is the width of the drive links sitting in the bar (where the oiler feeds)

A solid nose bar doesn't care about the 3/8 vs. .325 - just the guage.

A SPROCKET nose bar has to match the pitch (3/8 or .325) so the noseteeth mesh

The clutch drum sprocket tooth count is rpm vs torque (A good gearhead will instinctively know this, LOL)


luck,greg
 
The diff b/tw 3/8 & .325 is the centers of the links - if your sprocket is 3/8" that's designed for a 3/8" (.375)chain, ......

3/8" chain never was .375" - that is a common misunderstanding created by some marketing people.

The real pitch is .366 - 3/8" is a rounded off number in this case. :msp_wink:
 
3/8" chain never was .375" - that is a common misunderstanding created by some marketing people.

The real pitch is .366 - 3/8" is a rounded off number in this case. :msp_wink:

Normally I like arguing with you Niko but last time I doubted you on 3/8" chain pitch I went down the shed and checked it to prove you wrong. Dammit, you were right :D
 
3/8" chain never was .375" - that is a common misunderstanding created by some marketing people.

The real pitch is .366 - 3/8" is a rounded off number in this case. :msp_wink:

Yes thats right, and it was rounded to 3/8 becouse .366 was too much for Yanks to understand, and it was also the Yanks that created 3/8-.375 misunderstanding,

this is not to take the piss out on the Yanks, but just somthing I found when reading tec stuff on chain sometime back,
 
Thanks for the info man! I dont see a part number on the sprocket (front nor back) but ill assume its the 3/8 7T that uve got listem which means it goes with the piece behind it (yall call it a disk or drum dont ya?)

I would recommend the rim sprocket rather than the drum. Once installed, rims are a lot less that replacing a drum and you can change pitch and tooth count as you like.

I found that on my 310 I did not like a 8 pin rim and went back to a 3/8 7 pin. I really like a 18" bar with 3/8 Stihl RS or Oregon LGX chain. Have actually tried a 24" bar and was more than a little disappointed.

You will find that the 029/290 saws are workhorses. There is a secret though. You can put a 390 jug and piston on them. They also respond well to porting and muffler mods.

I have run the 310 I have for more than 10 years with almost no issues.

Hal
 
I'm sure everyone will hate me for this but...

If you like more power and mods... Stihl 029's have the smallest cylinder of all the farmboss series (45mm). You can replace that in a night with a 49mm 039/390 piston and cylinder for $50-$100. Basically go from 54cc's to 64cc's in a night! Your saw will also have a better power to weight ratio then too.

Go on ebay and get a 49mm piston and cylinder. You can swap the piston and cylinder in a hour or two and you'll be able to run a 20in 3/8 full chisel with ease. I've actually found the ebay seller Hutzl to have pretty cheap and good quality pistons and cylinders. I got one bad 026 set from them but got a full refund without having to return it. All of the 029-039 cylinders I've bought from them have been really good. I actually put a couple 49mm 039 cylinders in a couple ms290's for a tree service that has been relentless on the saws ever since... The owner said any stock saw he's run would be toast by now. BIGBORE OEM QUALITY 49MM CYLINDER PISTON FOR STIHL 029 031 039 MS290 MS310 MS390 | eBay

Put a muffler mod on and make sure you adjust the carb. I've found a good base setting is 1 full turn counter clockwise on each the H and L. Fine tuning from there while cutting always helps a little.

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS use SYNTHETIC 2 cycle mix! The only exception I make to this is if I am breaking in a new piston and cylinder.
 
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