I need your advice on this Husky cylinder.

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Brian S

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OK guys I need some of your expertise. I'm rebuilding a nice straight gassed 353 from this thread-

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=88435

Here is a photo of the cylinder as removed from the saw-
3309394738_3eca8ae4c8_b.jpg


After a bunch of acid and sandpaper treatments it now looks like this-
3309388538_f166254e82_o.jpg


The transfer that is left is hard to see with the naked eye and you can hardly feel it at all with a scribe or fingernail. I've had to work way harder to get this aluminum off than any other cylinder I ever cleaned. Now, in the second pic you might be able to see a dark spot in the lower left corner at the head and wall junction. That spot is a flaw in the chrome and casting that the acid has opened up into a small pit, I estimate the pit size to be about .07" diameter and .02" deep. The pit is in the head only, not in the cylinder wall. I'm afraid of putting any more acid in there in an attempt to get the last of the transfer out in fear of making the pit worse or finding any more chinks in the armour so to speak.

Shoud I quit now? Is a tiny amount of transfer OK, or will it wreck the new piston?

Please give me your opinions.

Thanks,
Brian
 
That does not look bad. Maybe just a little 400 or 600 grit wet paper on the finger tip will finish the job. I would think it would be fine run just as shown.

You can protect areas you don't want etched with candle wax while you apply acid.
 
That does not look bad. Maybe just a little 400 or 600 grit wet paper on the finger tip will finish the job. I would think it would be fine run just as shown.

You can protect areas you don't want etched with candle wax while you apply acid.

I thought about using petrolum jelly as a uh "prophylactic" against acid but figured it wouldn't work. Never thought of candle wax, T-Wolf you are the MAN! Good advice for next time. Thanks.
 
You may find warming the jug a little before dripping wax on it will help the wax stick. If jug is cold the wax tends to freeze too fast and not bond.
 
What piston are you using?

I am going to use an OEM piston. I finally tracked a new one down for $65.00 and the end user I'm building it for decided to go with OEM ILO the Meteor. The 51 rancher piston that PB is sending me got hung up in the mail due to a comedy of errors but it is due Friday. I'll still be doing the piston comparison and a test fit with the 51R piston to see if it compatible or easily modifiable. I will post those results in the original thread when that happens.
 
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