I prefer outboard Clutches

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Oh, so when you run into a big, scary new word, you look it up and post the definition - just in case there are others who are also ignorant? I suppose that is a well intentioned service, but it tends to clutter up the thread and interfere with the discussion.

You are making an illogical statement based on a flawed premise.

You have failed to observe that I am the one introducing multi-syllable words used in their proper context. A reasonably competent person would deduce that I do not "run into" these words I propagate.

I will refrain from posting definitions, as the individual who seems most in need of this service is somewhat rude.
 
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You are making an illogical statement based on a flawed premise.

You have failed to observe that I am the one introducing multi-syllable words used in their proper context. A reasonably competent person would deduce that I do not "run into" these words I propagate.

I will refrain from posting definitions, as the individual who seems most in need of this service is somewhat rude.
Oh, yes, you are just so noble. Look, you elected to drag this into another thread, not me - did you think you were being subtle or something? My comments were on topic and intended to be constructive, while you have not posted anything of relevance to the topic. Your childish BS is in fact cluttering up the thread and interfering with the discussion. Were you hoping you cold get Bob to shut down another thread?
 
I learned a valuable lesson recently that's germaine. You'll never fuel a fire when you piss on it and walk away.
 
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Tito was always my favorite.

Hatin' on little Michael?:hmm3grin2orange:

You two stop that jibber-jabberin' or Joe will bet yer ass.:D

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I have saws with both clutch styles. Probably more with outboard clutches than inboard. Most of the points already made hold true in my experience. However..............I have to disagree about 'noodling'. The best 'noodling' saws I have are two big Homelites with inboard clutches (and no auto oiler pumps). They clear those big noodles (from the .404 chain) MUCH better than any of my outboard clutch saws.
 
I prefer inboard clutches just from a physics standpoint. Think of the PTO shaft as a lever, with the bearing as the fulcrum. The chain exerts a radial load on the crankshaft. The length of the lever is the distance between the radial load and the fulcrum. Any engineer worth his salt understands the value of rigidity.

Blah, blah, blah.

Chris, please refrain from derailing the thread. It is very distracting.

Thanks.
 
I prefer inboard clutches just from a physics standpoint. Think of the PTO shaft as a lever, with the bearing as the fulcrum. The chain exerts a radial load on the crankshaft. The length of the lever is the distance between the radial load and the fulcrum. Any engineer worth his salt understands the value of rigidity.



Chris, please refrain from derailing the thread. It is very distracting.

Thanks.
The point where the force is applied is where the chain runs. Putting the clutch between the crank and the sprocket usually moves that point farther away, for the same reason it messes up the balance by moving the bar farther outboard. So you've got it exactly backwards. ;)
 
The point where the force is applied is where the chain runs. Putting the clutch between the crank and the sprocket usually moves that point farther away, for the same reason it messes up the balance by moving the bar farther outboard. So you've got it exactly backwards. ;)

I was hoping you would catch that. While this has certainly been fun, it was beginning to feel a little too easy.

Catch you in the next thread.
 
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I was hoping you would catch that. While this has certainly been fun, it was beginning to feel a little too easy.

Catch you in the next thread.
The proper term is "Epic Fail".
 
Did any one measure the difference between where a chain sits on an inboard versus an outboard in relation to the crank, bearings, and stuff and all this supposed uber force being excerted?
 
Did any one measure the difference between where a chain sits on an inboard versus an outboard in relation to the crank, bearings, and stuff and all this supposed uber force being excerted?

Quit trying to derail our pissing match.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

An outboard clutch would allow the chain to ride closer to the bearing. I was setting a trap for Chris and he sidestepped it.
 
The best saws in the world use inboard clutches for a reason...enough said :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Made in Germany.
 
Harley big twins have an exaggerated version of ob clutches, so much so, there is a support bearing between drive sprocket and clutch. back to saws... makes engineering sense to me. I personally like easier b&c r&r for whatever reason, don't like the dust buildup around it. imho the clutch shouldn't build up bad amounts of heat if saw is being run properly.
 
Harley big twins have an exaggerated version of ob clutches, so much so, there is a support bearing between drive sprocket and clutch. back to saws... makes engineering sense to me. I personally like easier b&c r&r for whatever reason, don't like the dust buildup around it. imho the clutch shouldn't build up bad amounts of heat if saw is being run properly.

Bingo. The excessive heat comes from slippage, being packed with sawdust or being run with the chainbrake engaged, not from normal operation.
 

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