OldDeadOne
ArboristSite Operative
That's absolutely filthy in that last pic!
I rescued a 029 today couldn't stand it in a pile of 30 wildthings. The ugly pictures
- Thread starter Work Saw Collector
- Start date
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dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
He probably says that because it was painted. Possibly a way to camo a saw that was stolen. That was my first thought as well.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
You guys that are worried about stolen, take a look at the airbox lid in post #19. It was painted to cover up a not-so-nice word that was written on the top in permanent marker. I got most of it off with paint stripper, but it is still visible a bit.
tr33thri11s
ArboristSite Operative
I would guess that was somebody's name. I see guys put there name on saws so that when with coworker the right saw gets placed on the right truck.
andrethegiant70
Addicted to ArboristSite
You realize this makes you a cup-half-full guy. That's good!
OldDeadOne
ArboristSite Operative
Work Saw Collector
GTG Coffee Maker
Man whoever had that saw must have been afraid to spend a dime on it, that fuel line is ridiculous. I am sorry that saw is so rough. I really like the air filter pic, is that what trashed the p&c no air filter?
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
Dog-gone it Doc you beat me to it. I'd be glad to take it off your hands. My son now can break it down and put it back together almost blind folded. I'd be glad to post the before and after pics if we did. (I know the Doc can make it live -- he's a PhD in the 1127 series). I'm always a day late and a dollar short!
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Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'd be willing to say you could work on the top cover and filter box with some 400 grit or 600 grit and slick it up a bit. Then wipe it up with some laquer thinner and paint it with some Valspar Tractor and Implement Paint #5339-24 Kubota Orange (Tractor Supply). Many of the onlookers would wonder where you got those nice covers. I'm looking forward to the finished product.
Two thoughts.
1) I've never had much success with parts saws. Like OP, I always end up taking pity on them and doing a full rebuild.
2) Rather than wasting hours on the plastic, check the price of new ones. When I rebuilt my 460, I asked my (very helpful) dealer about plastic prices - I think one bit was £11 and the other was £13. It would have cost me that much to go out an buy all of the lacquer I'd need, not to mention the time.
1) I've never had much success with parts saws. Like OP, I always end up taking pity on them and doing a full rebuild.
2) Rather than wasting hours on the plastic, check the price of new ones. When I rebuilt my 460, I asked my (very helpful) dealer about plastic prices - I think one bit was £11 and the other was £13. It would have cost me that much to go out an buy all of the lacquer I'd need, not to mention the time.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
Well, the object here is to get my buddy a solid running saw on the cheap. He is a tree guy, and does not care how it looks. He would actually almost prefer it to look a bit different. Easier to identify in the truck or (hopefully not) pawn shop if it goes missing. Those covers are solid and not cracked, so no reason not to use them. They will be sanded and maybe clear coated, maybe not. I have to get that cover looking a bit better, or swap it. I happen to have several boxes of 1127 parts here that owe me nothing, so I'm going to piece this one together for him. This will be a good use for some parts that are very functional, but maybe not pretty enough to put on one I intend to sell. I'm figuring this:
Piston $25
Fuel line $8
Seals $18
Bearings - not sure, going to be my first crack at aftermarket bearings.
All of the rest I have around in boxes.
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey Doc, the aftermarket bearings will work fine. I purchased mine this week locally from Motion Industries. It is a 17mm x 40mm x 12mm bearing. The spec on it is 6203 C3 open type, high speed bearing. (The speed spec was over 30,000 rpms). They pressed on and off without anything but a bearing separator in the manual press. I was very pleased at a price of $19.26 for both bearings. The brand name was FAG on the bearing and as I understand this company has made bearings for quite a few saw manufacturers. I say GO FOR IT. Post the pics of this saw when done!
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
The is Mrs. is out of the house for a bit. I decided that I need to get this one going, so I did some scrounging in the 1127 boxes. Found an 039 crank with good bearings on it already. Then I spied a 290 that got swatted by a tree. Cylinder is junk, but piston and crank seals are nearly new. I always keep a good 290 jug around, so I'll use the spare, and clean up the Super jug later. We may have a runner today. I'll get some pics when hands are clean. Right now I have to do my LEAST favorite part of saw maintenance: Cleaning.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
Okay, that's better
One of the most common things I get asked about 1127 rebuilds is how I get the piston in the jug. I decided to do a little pictoral. Since I don't have three hands, you'll have to use a little imagination. First off you get the rings lined up on the locating pins, and get the crank/piston assy started into the jug. I use a brush handle under the tapered side of the cylinder head to hold it level on the workbench. Eventually the top ring will bottom on the transfer divider like this:
Now you use the trusty Stihl orange screwdriver that you have beveled off carefully. One side at a time, you press the ring into the groove right at the divider, and cant the piston slightly sideways so the ring cannot pop back out. Now do the other side and it will look like this:
Repeat procedure and you get this:
Here it is at home. You'll need the crank in this position in order to assemble it with the pan still in the cradle. The crank cheeks will hit otherwise, and mess things up, plus you get Dirko everywhere.
One of the most common things I get asked about 1127 rebuilds is how I get the piston in the jug. I decided to do a little pictoral. Since I don't have three hands, you'll have to use a little imagination. First off you get the rings lined up on the locating pins, and get the crank/piston assy started into the jug. I use a brush handle under the tapered side of the cylinder head to hold it level on the workbench. Eventually the top ring will bottom on the transfer divider like this:
Now you use the trusty Stihl orange screwdriver that you have beveled off carefully. One side at a time, you press the ring into the groove right at the divider, and cant the piston slightly sideways so the ring cannot pop back out. Now do the other side and it will look like this:
Repeat procedure and you get this:
Here it is at home. You'll need the crank in this position in order to assemble it with the pan still in the cradle. The crank cheeks will hit otherwise, and mess things up, plus you get Dirko everywhere.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
This ought to get me off Thall's christmas card list.... While I don't suggest re-using crank seals very often, these were pretty soft yet, and I want to get this saw together. If you must re-use seals here are some tips. You need to make sure the seals are indexed the same way there were in the last installation. Notice the little nub on the edge here:
I use Dow Corning DC-4 (dilectric grease) on all the crank seals I install. Just a little in the channel to keep things from grabbing when she goes together.
Here is the seal installed in the same position as it was in the 290 motor. I'll have to work some Dirko back into the corner when I assemble.
Applying dirko. I had to hurry on this one so the sealant wouldn't start to harden while I was fooling with the camera. I apply a very light coat to both sides, and then put them together. Always wipe down the surfaces and edge of the crank seals with carb cleaner before this step.
Cinching it up. I'll come back with the torque wrench after this.
I use Dow Corning DC-4 (dilectric grease) on all the crank seals I install. Just a little in the channel to keep things from grabbing when she goes together.
Here is the seal installed in the same position as it was in the 290 motor. I'll have to work some Dirko back into the corner when I assemble.
Applying dirko. I had to hurry on this one so the sealant wouldn't start to harden while I was fooling with the camera. I apply a very light coat to both sides, and then put them together. Always wipe down the surfaces and edge of the crank seals with carb cleaner before this step.
Cinching it up. I'll come back with the torque wrench after this.
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
Excellent pictorial. That's exactly how I put the piston in the cylinder on the 1127 series saws. Do you also put DC-4 on the ground for the ignition coil? Just curious. Thanks for posting.
This ought to get me off Thall's christmas card list.... While I don't suggest re-using crank seals very often, these were pretty soft yet, and I want to get this saw together. If you must re-use seals here are some tips. You need to make sure the seals are indexed the same way there were in the last installation. Notice the little nub on the edge here:
I use Dow Corning DC-4 (dilectric grease) on all the crank seals I install. Just a little in the channel to keep things from grabbing when she goes together.
Here is the seal installed in the same position as it was in the 290 motor. I'll have to work some Dirko back into the corner when I assemble.
Applying dirko. I had to hurry on this one so the sealant wouldn't start to harden while I was fooling with the camera. I apply a very light coat to both sides, and then put them together. Always wipe down the surfaces and edge of the crank seals with carb cleaner before this step.
Cinching it up. I'll come back with the torque wrench after this.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
Last couple for the day. This is my favorite part of a build. Particularly when I go with used parts in an engine, I like to test it out as soon as it is together. More than once I have caught a growly bearing or other noise at this stage. No sense in putting more parts on if you just have to take them back off.... The compression readings are usually a few PSI high, but you can get a good idea where it will be. This one will probably end up around 150 once I run it a few times.
Not looking half bad for a few hours work. The white paint stripped right off, revealing several of the original stickers. It is going to be a few days until I can get back into the shop. More updates then.
Not looking half bad for a few hours work. The white paint stripped right off, revealing several of the original stickers. It is going to be a few days until I can get back into the shop. More updates then.
OldDeadOne
ArboristSite Operative
Love those pics of the build,excellent looks like I'm probably gonna get some DC-4 and dirko for a potential Husky 372 build. This is a great thread
Saw Dr.
Great posts and pics. Always wanted to see a clamshell rebuild. Good use on the DC-4. We used it on the oil filters for the Lycomings and Continentals. Never once got them stuck . best "filter lube" on the market.
drop me a line if you lay over at ACY-EWR-TTN-LVI area.
Angelo
Great posts and pics. Always wanted to see a clamshell rebuild. Good use on the DC-4. We used it on the oil filters for the Lycomings and Continentals. Never once got them stuck . best "filter lube" on the market.
drop me a line if you lay over at ACY-EWR-TTN-LVI area.
Angelo
