I Smashed my NEW MS 362!

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Doesn't look any worse than my Husky 66. I have been running it without the trigger lock ever since I got it in the deal with my Poulan 8500.

Poulan8500018.jpg
 
I thoroughly suggest you as a first time chainsaw owner and operator go find someone experienced and spend a few afternoons cutting with them, just to get the basics down. If you misjudged a small log leaning so it fell and smashed your saw, you very well could misjudge stuff when you start felling trees, and smash YOU.
 
Smashed?

Hell, that's just a twig thump. Get a new black cover and get to work!
 
I thoroughly suggest you as a first time chainsaw owner and operator go find someone experienced and spend a few afternoons cutting with them, just to get the basics down. If you misjudged a small log leaning so it fell and smashed your saw, you very well could misjudge stuff when you start felling trees, and smash YOU.

AMEN! Be careful out there, and don't use a saw without a chain brake until you're comfortable enough to do so.
 
I thoroughly suggest you as a first time chainsaw owner and operator go find someone experienced and spend a few afternoons cutting with them, just to get the basics down. If you misjudged a small log leaning so it fell and smashed your saw, you very well could misjudge stuff when you start felling trees, and smash YOU.

Agreed! Even before that, get on this site and youtube and search proper methods for felling and bucking trees. You and all of us are one mis step away from changing who and what we are for the rest of our lives . . . if we live.
Work slower than you think, think faster than you work.

Steve
 
Fix 'er..
Start 'er..
Run 'er..

I find a 20" B&C to be a great fit on the 362..
 
First Mark on a New Tool

The first ding or scratch we put on a new truck or car, first mark on a new tool, etc, etc, is always the hardest to accept.

You were very lucky that the saw was not damaged more severely.

Life goes on, it will be alright.
 
. Any internal combustion engine with pistons and rings is going to benefit from a high compression hard run break in. The idea is to run it hard a bit on the rich side (for a chainsaw) to provide adequate lubrication and mechanical force to get the rings to seat well and the cylinder to "smooth" down for good compression and no blowby. On a new 4 cycle engine like my Honda MC, I travelled the 15 miles home, changed the factory oil right then and "rode it like I stole it" for the next 500 miles before I changed the oil again. Most all of the trash from the manufacture of the engine will be in the oil that was in the engine when it was purchased. The sooner you get that oil out the quicker that trash isn't circulating around in the engine. .
Hope this helps.
Steve

A couple of things to think about. Chainsaws and motorcycle engines are different than car engines. They use roller bearings on the crank and rod, not bushings like cars.

First, don't change the oil in a new car right away. Wait for the recommended mileage. The oils used in new engines are called a break in oil, they don't have as much of the lubricants used in modern oils. If you take this oil out to soon, the rings may not seat properly. Todays oils are to slick and wont let the needed friction to seat the rings.

Second, if you run a new engine really hard before it is broke in, your looking for trouble. All of the tolerances on the bearings are really tight for a little while, and need time to wear in also. If you run it that hard it can cause bearing issues.

I'm not telling you how to do your new engines, just pointing out some facts.
 
A badly leaning yellow pine killed my first saw. The clutch drum and piston were salvageable though. :hmm3grin2orange:
 

50Blues
I don't mean to start an off topic horse beating here but go to a few sites and see if you stay with the same opinion. I have spent quite a lot of time researching lubricants, etc. and their application to the mechanical world. It in no way makes me an expert, but it does hopefully point to others that know more than I ever will in these related fields. May I recommend - Bob is the Oil Guy . It's been one of the best sites for lubrication related study that I have found.
Steve
 
50Blues
I don't mean to start an off topic horse beating here but go to a few sites and see if you stay with the same opinion. I have spent quite a lot of time researching lubricants, etc. and their application to the mechanical world. It in no way makes me an expert, but it does hopefully point to others that know more than I ever will in these related fields. May I recommend - Bob is the Oil Guy . It's been one of the best sites for lubrication related study that I have found.
Steve

Not going to argue, just stating what I have seen. We can each have our own way of doing it and neither be wrong. Just different methods.
 
Def not as bad as I thought it would be from reading the discription I thought for sure it was going to be another tree fell on my saw posts. Followed by know anyone who has a blown motor there selling all the plastic off of. Hahaha that is a minor scratch in the woods I would def be wraping it in electical tape and never mis a lick. Stop by the Stealer ship on the way through and order the parts a rental saw wouldnt even have crossed ma mind.
 
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